Suggestions for Old PC/ New Build

Pangea

Hi all
I got a PC Built back by Hardwareversand in 2012 with help from this forum. nearly 9 years ago.

I've had lots of BSOD Errors in the past few years including :System service exception , system thread exception not handled, k mode exception not handled, critical process died, Kernel security check failure, memory management.

Rather than fixing the problem I pretty much ignored it. I am thinking maybe I should just get a new PC or new build. The PC is really sluggish now.
I also stopped using the SSD when critical process died showed up.

Not sure if its the Memory that is the issue although I do recall I ended up bending some pins on the CPU years ago which maybe was the cause for all the errors?

If someone could suggest a new build for me , that would be great.
I general use it for office work on my PC, hoping to get into Photo Shop also video encoding. I'm not a PC gamer but open to the possibility, so maybe a good graphics card in the suggestion too please.
I don't have a budget , willing to pay a good price for a solid machine.

I am no PC builder and to be honest not entirely sure if I would go down the road for a custom PC again , but the price of PCs on the Dell website gave me a fright.


Here is my build from back then, how does it hold up to todays computers? Also is there any site that assembles parts for you now like Hardwarevarsand did?


8GB-Kit G.Skill PC3-10667U CL9
ASRock Z77 Pro3 (Intel Z77)
FRACTAL DESIGN Gehäuse DEFINE R3 Black Pearl
Intel Core i5-2500K Box, LGA1155
LiteOn iHAS122-18 schwarz SATA
Rechner - Zusammenbau HVZPCDE
Sammsung SpinPoint F3 500GB, SATA II (HD502HJ)
Crucial CT064M4SSD2 64GB M4 SSD
Super-Flower SF450P14XE Golden Green Pro 80plus gold
Ultron Cardreader 75-in-1, intern, schwarz

Overheal

Because of security vulnerabilities and power efficiencies it makes little sense to keep the machine in that state. I mean you could wipe it and use it as a terminal in your home but it wouldn't be very energy efficient, you would get vastly more IPC (instructions per clock) per watt in a new machine. The other problem with the older CPUs are security vulnerabilities, the Sandy Bridge architecture is just hella old. It was given the security fixes for the Spectre exploit, but still.

If you bent pins on the CPU, you bent pins on the motherboard (it's Land Grid Array) so you'd want to replace the motherboard, and with it the CPU and with it - the whole machine. The SSD is tiny to the point of impractical and the HDD will be on a short lifespan at this stage. The PSU has the same concern with advanced age but I suppose you could use it, and the case.

I don't see a GPU?

Pangea

Overheal wrote: »

Because of security vulnerabilities and power efficiencies it makes little sense to keep the machine in that state. I mean you could wipe it and use it as a terminal in your home but it wouldn't be very energy efficient, you would get vastly more IPC (instructions per clock) per watt in a new machine. The other problem with the older CPUs are security vulnerabilities, the Sandy Bridge architecture is just hella old. It was given the security fixes for the Spectre exploit, but still.

If you bent pins on the CPU, you bent pins on the motherboard (it's Land Grid Array) so you'd want to replace the motherboard, and with it the CPU and with it - the whole machine. The SSD is tiny to the point of impractical and the HDD will be on a short lifespan at this stage. The PSU has the same concern with advanced age but I suppose you could use it, and the case.

I don't see a GPU?

Thanks a lot for the reply, appreciated. That makes sense and Im glad to hear that id be better getting a new machine.

Yes I didnt get a GPU, i just made do with the graphics of the motherboard at the time. Your right about the SSD, it was a pain to try and keep program files running on it with such a small size. It was £75 at the time of purchase! Im quite interested to see how PC Builds have improved , I must get up to date.

Homelander

Couple of hundred quid would buy you a much better system. Ryzen 3400G, 16GB DDR4, 500GB NVME and a decent A320M motherboard with an NVME slot would cost little. Re-use your case/PSU, hard drive if you need the storage.

The above would cost about €300-€350 and is way, way faster than your old setup, as well as infinitely more modern. The integrated graphics of the 3400G are also infinitely better, even just for media playback and other functionality like resolution/refresh support.

Obviously if budget is bigger, can push the boat out even further, but even at the €350 it's a massive upgrade.

Overheal

^ That's a great configuration if you just need a refresh for your workflow and it will still feel like luxury vs. your current experience.

If you want to throw more money into for photoshop and editing video also look at the Ryzen 7 Pro 4750G, it's newer and aimed at the business sector but has more horsepower while retaining the iGPU. Beats out the 3400G:

https://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/amd-ryzen-7-pro-4750g-renoir-review/4

Pangea

Thanks guys
I think il go for a completely new build.
I was looking at the case and it's a bit grubby now and think a new one would be nice.
Just wondering would yous mind writing another build
With Case , A GPU and a PSU aswell.
I don't mind spending a decent amount on a build so I would like a luxury build if I'm being honest.

Also just wondering what is the consensus on buying a PC from say Dell , is it much better value to build one yourself?

Thanks guys

Shlippery

I love seeing the hardwareversand i5 2500k combo popup here every so often, that was my first build from here too!

This PC Building & Upgrading board shifted some amount of them i'd say!

Pangea

I have been fiddling with the PC getting to know the parts again.

I notice there is a yellow paste or solder of some kind used to fuse power switch to front of case and on some other buttons. Hardwarevasand built it
When building a PC is this necessary?? Seems to be more of a nuisance.

Also when I remove the front case there is zero leverage and always takes out the usb connectors , also just noticed I nipped the power connector clean off.
Just curious is there anyway to fix that?
Does the case always be this tight with the connectors or was it an error in building?



Photo of yellow paste on power button

Homelander

It's normal for them to have very little to almost no flex.

It came that way from factory, it's just glue to hold connectors presumably. When building a PC there is nothing at all like this you need to do.

You can buy replacement power switches for a few euro.

The button is connected directly to the motherboard power pin-out. You can either buy a replacement siwtch that you can try fit into the original power button (like this), or else bypass it with a different button.

In fact if you case has a reset button, you can just wire that to the power pin-out and it will work fine. I mean really, who uses their reset button anyway!

Pangea

Homelander wrote: »

It's normal for them to have very little to almost no flex.

It came that way from factory, it's just glue to hold connectors presumably. When building a PC there is nothing at all like this you need to do.

You can buy replacement power switches for a few euro.

The button is connected directly to the motherboard power pin-out. You can either buy a replacement siwtch that you can try fit into the original power button (like this), or else bypass it with a different button.

In fact if you case has a reset button, you can just wire that to the power pin-out and it will work fine. I mean really, who uses their reset button anyway!

Thanks Highlander
Your link doesn't appear to be working
Good idea about the reset button I have one , never knew I had to be honest! Unfortunately that glue is completely covering it so it's inaccessible.

Homelander

No - the reset switch is connected to the motherboard inside your case, you don't need to be messing with those front panel connectors, ever.

I think you are mistaking how these work - the parts with the glue are never designed to be removed and never should have to be. They are connected to the motherboard through the cables on the opposite end inside your PC.

So as long as you have a reset button, you can just take it away from the reset pin-out, and put it into the power pin-out. That way, your reset switch is now your power switch. It's a 2 second job.

The link does work, just need to give it a second to load.

This video should explain it in simple visual terms....

Pangea

Homelander wrote: »

No - the reset switch is connected to the motherboard inside your case, you don't need to be messing with those front panel connectors, ever.

I think you are mistaking how these work - the parts with the glue are never designed to be removed and never should have to be. They are connected to the motherboard through the cables on the opposite end inside your PC.

So as long as you have a reset button, you can just take it away from the reset pin-out, and put it into the power pin-out. That way, your reset switch is now your power switch. It's a 2 second job.

The link does work, just need to give it a second to load.

This video should explain it in simple visual terms....

Ah I get you now, thanks for the explanation. That's pretty nifty work around.

Pangea

Alright lads

I think I am going to go for this build below , after researching the past month and reading very informative posts on here I decided to push the boat out.

I already purchased the board and the Sabrent for cheaper than quoted below i might add , also have the memory ordered for cheaper than below too. I have yet to purchase the rest but will do so tomorrow maybe.
I know there is better value in the new year but want to have the build for Christmas.

As I said in the op I will be using it for office work/ multi tasking/ lots of tabs opened/ photo editing scanning / video editing/ looking to get into gaming too.

Opinions welcome.


https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/list/sc3cxc



[PCPartPicker Part List](https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/list/sc3cxc)

Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
**CPU** | [AMD Ryzen 7 3700X 3.6 GHz 8-Core Processor](https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/product/QKJtt6/amd-ryzen-7-3700x-36-ghz-8-core-processor-100-100000071box) | £284.95 @ AWD-IT
**Motherboard** | [MSI MAG X570 TOMAHAWK WIFI ATX AM4 Motherboard](https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/product/WKdrxr/msi-mag-x570-tomahawk-wifi-atx-am4-motherboard-mag-x570-tomahawk-wifi) | £189.98 @ Box Limited
**Memory** | [Crucial Ballistix 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3600 CL16 Memory](https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/product/2TFKHx/crucial-ballistix-16-gb-2-x-8-gb-ddr4-3600-memory-bl2k8g36c16u4b) | £92.48 @ Newegg UK
**Storage** | [Sabrent Rocket 4.0 1 TB M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive](https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/product/fVYQzy/sabrent-rocket-40-1-tb-m2-2280-solid-state-drive-sb-rocket-nvme4-1tb) | £160.00 @ Amazon UK
**Video Card** | [MSI GeForce RTX 2060 6 GB GAMING Z Video Card](https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/product/3wBTwP/msi-geforce-rtx-2060-6-gb-gaming-z-video-card-rtx-2060-gaming-z-6g) | £390.00 @ Amazon UK
**Case** | [Fractal Design Define 7 ATX Mid Tower Case](https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/product/L8xbt6/fractal-design-define-7-atx-mid-tower-case-fd-c-def7a-01) | £131.49 @ Scan.co.uk
**Power Supply** | [SeaSonic FOCUS 750 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply](https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/product/97848d/seasonic-focus-750-w-80-gold-certified-fully-modular-atx-power-supply-focus-gx-750) | £112.77 @ CCL Computers
| *Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts* |
| **Total** | **£1361.67**
| Generated by [PCPartPicker](https://pcpartpicker.com) 2020-11-26 15:04 GMT+0000 |


This is the monitor I have it's only two years old but will do for the time being I think.


https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07CYBWFML/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabt1_D5HVFbAB3BSE2

JoyPad

Pangea wrote: »

**Storage** | [Sabrent Rocket 4.0 1 TB M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive](https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/product/fVYQzy/sabrent-rocket-40-1-tb-m2-2280-solid-state-drive-sb-rocket-nvme4-1tb) | £160.00 @ Amazon UK

This was on sale today, 127 stg. Now back to 170

Pangea

JoyPad wrote: »

This was on sale today, 127 stg. Now back to 170

Yeah i got it last month for 127
It's still on sale actually but it's with the heat sink its £142!!!

https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07TKYWB3K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabt1_dlC_te9VFb45TBQSR

Edit oops I just seen it's gone now

JoyPad

Yeah, they seem to go fast, and the 500Gb will likely be next.
If I didn't grab a 1Tb one earlier, I would definitely take the 500Gb for OS only, and maybe a Crucial P5 (1Tb PCIe gen 3) for games.

K.O.Kiki

Pangea wrote: »

Alright lads

I think I am going to go for this build below , after researching the past month and reading very informative posts on here I decided to push the boat out.

I already purchased the board and the Sabrent for cheaper than quoted below i might add , also have the memory ordered for cheaper than below too. I have yet to purchase the rest but will do so tomorrow maybe.
I know there is better value in the new year but want to have the build for Christmas.

As I said in the op I will be using it for office work/ multi tasking/ lots of tabs opened/ photo editing scanning / video editing/ looking to get into gaming too.

Opinions welcome.


https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/list/sc3cxc



[PCPartPicker Part List](https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/list/sc3cxc)

PCPartPicker Part List

CPU: AMD Ryzen 7 3700X 3.6 GHz 8-Core Processor (£284.95 @ AWD-IT)
Motherboard: MSI MAG X570 TOMAHAWK WIFI ATX AM4 Motherboard (£189.98 @ CCL Computers)
Memory: Crucial Ballistix 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3600 CL16 Memory
Storage: Sabrent Rocket 4.0 1 TB M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive (£160.00 @ Amazon UK)
Video Card: MSI GeForce RTX 2060 6 GB GAMING Z Video Card (£390.00 @ Amazon UK)
Case: Fractal Design Define 7 ATX Mid Tower Case (£131.49 @ Scan.co.uk)
Power Supply: SeaSonic FOCUS 750 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply (£112.77 @ CCL Computers)
Total: £1269.19
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2020-11-26 17:19 GMT+0000


This is the monitor I have it's only two years old but will do for the time being I think.


https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07CYBWFML/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabt1_D5HVFbAB3BSE2

>fixed PCPlist to BBcode

You never gave a budget OP.

Can only say that an RTX 2060 for £390 is highway robbery.
A high-end RX 5700 XT is a better buy: https://www.cclonline.com/product/297680/AXRX-5700-XT-8GBD6-3DHE/OC/Graphics-Cards/PowerColor-Radeon-RX-5700-XT-Red-Devil-8GB-Overclocked-Graphics-Card/VGA5686/

Pangea

K.O.Kiki wrote: »

>fixed PCPlist to BBcode

You never gave a budget OP.

Can only say that an RTX 2060 for £390 is highway robbery.
A high-end RX 5700 XT is a better buy: https://www.cclonline.com/product/297680/AXRX-5700-XT-8GBD6-3DHE/OC/Graphics-Cards/PowerColor-Radeon-RX-5700-XT-Red-Devil-8GB-Overclocked-Graphics-Card/VGA5686/

Thanks Il give it a look! I didn't really set a budget to be honest. My research just lead me to these parts and I'd be happy to pay for it if I know I'm getting a good build, in saying that I wouldn't pay top dollar for a GPU.

Pangea

Some of the stories about AMD GPUs and driver issues had put me off before but do you think it's okay?
Seeing as it's my first build I would like to get a stable card as I wouldn't have the experience yet for altering settings etc.

Is ray tracing important? I know NVidia only support it at the moment.

Also should I get a gpu cooler or will the stock one suffice?

Samuel T. Cogley

AMD's GPU drivers are hit and miss. Get a good one and stick with it until another good one comes out - there have been more and more good ones recently.

Raytracing is almost an irrelevance at the midrange (2060 / 5700XT territory). The cards aren't powerful enough and AMD doesn't support it on the 5000 series. If you're running 1080p low refresh - maybe with DLSS you could squeeze a playable frame rate in a couple of games. For video editing and photo editing you may be better off with a nVidia card though for CUDA - 2060 KO perhaps. Someone else will know I'm purely a gamer.

Stock is a Wraith Prism? I'd stick with that, at least initially.

Better option for the PSU IMHO.

Shlippery

Samuel T. Cogley wrote: »

AMD's GPU drivers are hit and miss. Get a good one and stick with it until another good one comes out - there have been more and more good ones recently.

Raytracing is almost an irrelevance at the midrange (2060 / 5700XT territory). The cards aren't powerful enough and AMD doesn't support it on the 5000 series. If you're running 1080p low refresh - maybe with DLSS you could squeeze a playable frame rate in a couple of games. For video editing and photo editing you may be better off with a nVidia card though for CUDA - 2060 KO perhaps. Someone else will know I'm purely a gamer.

Stock is a Wraith Prism? I'd stick with that, at least initially.

Better option for the PSU IMHO.

re: that PSU: £74.99 + £23.98 delivery


Probably not worth 25% on delivery!

Samuel T. Cogley

Sorry keep forgetting I'm on Prime, no it's not worth £100 at all.