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Tips to remove this bearing

  • 06-07-2020 10:00am
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 887 ✭✭✭


    It's a 6207 bearing so just a handy size bearing. Its not gone but the seal is gone and its just a dirty looking so I'm going to replace it before it goes. Its in a housing and a shaft coming out the middle of it.

    Any tips on how to get the inner and outer races out once I have the ball bearing removed out of it? I don't have gas.


Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 11,125 ✭✭✭✭patsy_mccabe


    Hard to know without seeing a picture. I've removed inner races before by using boiling water. Just pour it slowly over a piece of kitchen paper (strong tissue). As for the outer race, is there a lip that you can get in behind. I've designed housings for bearings in my other life and I'd always leave either a small cut-away or a tru hole at the back to tap it out, with a flat nosed punch.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,442 ✭✭✭Waffletraktor


    Hard to know without seeing a picture. I've removed inner races before by using boiling water. Just pour it slowly over a piece of kitchen paper (strong tissue). As for the outer race, is there a lip that you can get in behind. I've designed housings for bearings in my other life and I'd always leave either a small cut-away or a tru hole at the back to tap it out, with a flat nosed punch.
    2 or 3 strips of weld on the inner bearing race causes them to tighten up a bit and come out fairly easy also


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 822 ✭✭✭Pinsnbushings


    2 or 3 strips of weld on the inner bearing race causes them to tighten up a bit and come out fairly easy also

    Ye great job, Run of weld around the inside of the outer race will shrink that and usually they will fall out of the housing.
    For the inner race if you can get a grinder at it to cut or grind 1 side flat so it will crack with a tap of a chisel, make sure you have the goggles on.
    If you can't and it's really tight you can put a pipe over the shaft, weld to bearing and weld a nut in the end of the pipe, to screw a bolt in against the end of the shaft, it will pull it off.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 887 ✭✭✭mengele


    Ye great job, Run of weld around the inside of the outer race will shrink that and usually they will fall out of the housing.
    For the inner race if you can get a grinder at it to cut or grind 1 side flat so it will crack with a tap of a chisel, make sure you have the goggles on.
    If you can't and it's really tight you can put a pipe over the shaft, weld to bearing and weld a nut in the end of the pipe, to screw a bolt in against the end of the shaft, it will pull it off.

    Would low amps do when welding e.g. 70 amps so splatter weld doesn't go somewhere its not meant to.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 822 ✭✭✭Pinsnbushings


    mengele wrote: »
    Would low amps do when welding e.g. 70 amps so splatter weld doesn't go somewhere its not meant to.

    Possibly it shouldn't need a whole lot, only a 35mm shaft so shouldn't take too much force, how are you getting out the balls if the bearing isn't already gone? Is a gearbox or something that you'd be afraid of damaging?


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