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Solar panel stopped heating water

  • 17-06-2020 9:38am
    #1
    hoodie6029
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,238 ✭✭✭


    Hi,
    I have a panel that heats the water. Was working fine up to last week. There was no hot water on the last scorching day. The system was serviced last year.
    We had the plumber in last week to change the water pump and add the missing expansion tank for the water but he has said nothing he did would affect the solar heating.

    Is there any reason why it would stop working like that? Don't see any leaks in the attic beneath the panel.

    Wondering if there are any quick fixes I could try before I call in a professional.

    This is water. Inspiring speech by David Foster Wallace https://youtu.be/DCbGM4mqEVw?si=GS5uDvegp6Er1EOG



Comments

  • #2
    John.G
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,623 ✭✭✭John.G


    The system pressure should be at a minimum of 1/1.5 bar, more normally 2/2.5 bar, check this first, the pressure gauge should be very close to the solar circulating pump.


  • #3
    hoodie6029
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,238 ✭✭✭hoodie6029


    Cheers John.
    Pressure is at 2 bar. I tried the old fashioned IT fix. Turned off the panel and unplugged the power to the pump. Turned it back on a few minutes later. Tried the water a few minutes ago and it is hot again.
    Will have to see if this fix holds now....

    This is water. Inspiring speech by David Foster Wallace https://youtu.be/DCbGM4mqEVw?si=GS5uDvegp6Er1EOG



  • #4
    roy rodgers
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,492 ✭✭✭roy rodgers


    alot of solar panels are getting airlocked at this moment im finding. It could be just an airlock at the highest point or could be the pump after stopping work or a faulty stat but I'd put money on the airlock even at 2 bar!!.
    If you haven't had it serviced in the last 3 to 5 years thats the first place you might need to get done first and get the glycol changed out..


  • #5
    John.G
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,623 ✭✭✭John.G


    Yes, what happen, especially with E.Tubes is that the circ pump will stop as it is supposed to when the HW cylinder reaches its max set point, the tubes can then go on to reach temps of well over 200C, the tube contents are blown down into the expansion vessel and air can build up after being released from the "boiling" liquid. Ideally, a heat dump radiator should be fitted IMO with all E.tube installations but rarely happens. I have F.plates and I have the cylinder temp cut out set at 85C which a F.Plate will rarely if ever achieve even with little or no hot water demand but I have a TMV installed on the cylinder outlet which limits the temperature to 60C.
    I can also manually cool down the cylinder with the CH circ pump&cylinder (boiler) heating coil by just unplugging the burner, opening the hot water zone motorised valve manually, and then switching on the circ pump by turning up a room stat.


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