Is my clutch gone?

arleitiss

I've never experienced worn out clutch so not 100% sure it's that.
I have BMW E90 318D 2009, it's on 90k miles.

Whenever I drive in high gears - it sometimes (rarely but sometimes) feels like it goes into neutral and back.

When I am in 2nd gear especially when I down shift and start accelerating - it feels like there is loss of power or as if engine isnt connected to rear wheels, like I could put gas to floor and it would still barely accelerate but then one moment it feels like something clicks and it launches forward.


So 2nd gear is the main problem, is that clutch gone or would it be engine issue or something else I could check?


I heard gone clutch generally will make car jerk constantly, I have that in lower gears but it's barely felt.


Any idea how much would I be looking at for replacement of clutch? Does fly wheel need to be replaced as well (I heard somewhere before that generally those who are replaced together?)

Thank You!

swarlb

Pull your handbrake on tight, put the car in gear and try to drive. If the car pulls the locked back wheels, or attempts to do so, there is nothing wrong with your clutch.
If the car stays in position without moving, and the engine revs go up, your clutch is slipping.
if it does neither of the above, you may have another problem....
As for the cost, you'll get a myriad of replies on here, anything from 'source the part for €50 and do it yourself' to roughly anywhere between 350 and beyond...

martyc5674

swarlb wrote: »

Pull your handbrake on tight, put the car in gear and try to drive. If the car pulls the locked back wheels, or attempts to do so, there is nothing wrong with your clutch.
If the car stays in position without moving, and the engine revs go up, your clutch is slipping.
if it does neither of the above, you may have another problem....
As for the cost, you'll get a myriad of replies on here, anything from 'source the part for €50 and do it yourself' to roughly anywhere between 350 and beyond...

This test is fine if your clutch is good- if your clutch is nearly gone then this could kill it for good, and you’ll have no car.
Better drive up a bit of a hill.. keep an eye on revs and speedo, the revs shouldn’t go up without the Speedo doing likewise when you apply the throttle.
As for cost... budget 400 minimum up to 1000 if you need flywheel swell plus you’ll find it tricky possibly at the minute to get someone to do it.

swarlb

martyc5674 wrote: »

This test is fine if your clutch is good- if your clutch is nearly gone then this could kill it for good, and you’ll have no car.
Better drive up a bit of a hill.. keep an eye on revs and speedo, the revs shouldn’t go up without the Speedo doing likewise when you apply the throttle.
As for cost... budget 400 minimum up to 1000 if you need flywheel swell plus you’ll find it tricky possibly at the minute to get someone to do it.

The test is fine if either your clutch or handbrake is faulty. If a clutch is 'nearly gone' .... it's gone, and needs to be replaced, they don't 'fix' themselves.
Do the test, get it fixed.

martyc5674

swarlb wrote: »

The test is fine if either your clutch or handbrake is faulty. If a clutch is 'nearly gone' .... it's gone, and needs to be replaced, they don't 'fix' themselves.
Do the test, get it fixed.

Just trying to buy the OP some time... that test will lose them time. A slipping clutch can be nursed for a while with a bit of sympathetic driving unless you live in a particularly hilly spot.

arleitiss

Tried both tests.

First on the small hill - It held fine, revs were solid steady.
Then pulled up handbrake to max on even surface and was letting clutch go slowly up till when it nearly starts to stall and no rev alterations, steady and solid.


Guess it's something different then?

colm_mcm

Could be gear Linkage?

newmember2

gearbox...does it shift between gears OK and go into all gears without issue?