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PV inverter options recommendations

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Comments

  • Registered Users Posts: 64,697 ✭✭✭✭unkel


    The flipper in me doesn't like that stipend of no selling allowed :p

    And the only Studer inverters I ever see for sale online when they are sold are poor value for money, a fool is after buying it, sucking up the shipping costs and the VAT and import duty. Surely you are not that fool importing them from the US, Liam?

    But seriously we all need to add our weight into moving to renewables.


  • Posts: 5,238 ✭✭✭[Deleted User]


    Haha nope I stole 'em...as good as, I can send you a link for some it you want.

    You know the best thing about big heavy used inverters....they usually get the plastics damaged in shipping and you can get a partial refund of an hundred or two (seriously expensive buying swiss components) fortunately fiberglass is well cheap.


  • Registered Users Posts: 21 beepers


    unkel wrote: »
    From your posts on this thread it seems you and / or your installer messed up. And your Solis inverter was not to blame, can you please clarify?

    FWIW my own PV inverter is a Solis 3.6kW dual string input MPPT and it is fully compliant with Irish standards. An excellent piece of kit that I bought brand new for just over GBP200 iirc, an absolute bargain. Has worked perfectly for I think coming up to 3 years now. And to add to that, I have seen it produce 3.7kW, so well above what it is rated for.


    Yes WE did. I wanted a system that would supply power to the house (main / consumption output). However the SOLIS inverter supplies power to a "backup output" not the main output in the event of mains failure. As my PV system is in/on an outbuilding this is not suitable. Also the WELL WATER PUMP would need rewiring as it is cabled into its own output on the consumer unit.


  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 5,755 Mod ✭✭✭✭graememk


    beepers wrote: »
    Yes WE did. I wanted a system that would supply power to the house (main / consumption output). However the SOLIS inverter supplies power to a "backup output" not the main output in the event of mains failure. As my PV system is in/on an outbuilding this is not suitable. Also the WELL WATER PUMP would need rewiring as it is cabled into its own output on the consumer unit.

    That scenario would be the same for every grid tied system, also the standard inverters don't even have a EPS output, but the hybrid ones do as they are connected to a battery.

    The automatic shutoff in a grid failure is to protect anyone that could be working on the lines and thats why the eps output is on a different line. Which then can be setup to manually or automatically switch over to the backup. Or usually it's just installed to a double socket for handiness


  • Registered Users Posts: 3,954 ✭✭✭mp3guy


    graememk wrote: »
    That scenario would be the same for every grid tied system, also the standard inverters don't even have a EPS output, but the hybrid ones do as they are connected to a battery.

    The automatic shutoff in a grid failure is to protect anyone that could be working on the lines and thats why the eps output is on a different line. Which then can be setup to manually or automatically switch over to the backup. Or usually it's just installed to a double socket for handiness
    beepers wrote: »
    Yes WE did. I wanted a system that would supply power to the house (main / consumption output). However the SOLIS inverter supplies power to a "backup output" not the main output in the event of mains failure. As my PV system is in/on an outbuilding this is not suitable. Also the WELL WATER PUMP would need rewiring as it is cabled into its own output on the consumer unit.

    graememk is right it *should* shut off the main output for grid safety, but you can just put a changeover switch ahead of the supply from your ESB meter to your main consumer unit that has its secondary input from the EPS output of the inverter... provided you don't pull more than the ~3kw I believe it's rated for on back up power? No messing around with superfluous "back up sockets" or rewiring into sub boards etc...


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  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 5,755 Mod ✭✭✭✭graememk


    mp3guy wrote: »
    graememk is right it *should* shut off the main output for grid safety, but you can just put a changeover switch ahead of the supply from your ESB meter to your main consumer unit that has its secondary input from the EPS output of the inverter... provided you don't pull more than the ~3kw I believe it's rated for on back up power? No messing around with superfluous "back up sockets" or rewiring into sub boards etc...

    Yeah I do understand the sub board thing, as it does make it idiot proof, and general installers have to account for that.

    A person that understands the system and understands the limit, if your running off backup power you dont be switching on the oven, etc, you only use the essentials.


  • Registered Users Posts: 3,954 ✭✭✭mp3guy


    graememk wrote: »
    Yeah I do understand the sub board thing, as it does make it idiot proof, and general installers have to account for that.

    A person that understands the system and understands the limit, if your running off backup power you dont be switching on the oven, etc, you only use the essentials.

    Also any decent inverter ought to just safely shut down when the draw on the EPS is too great. My plan is a manual changeover switch during a power cut, where I can also flick off the heavy loads (shower, oven etc...) on the main consumer unit while switching the changeover to prevent accidents.


  • Posts: 5,238 ✭✭✭[Deleted User]


    There ought to not be loads connected to the inverter that exceed it's rated output.


  • Registered Users Posts: 3,954 ✭✭✭mp3guy


    There ought to not be loads connected to the inverter that exceed it's rated output.

    Ideally, but an inverter that doesn't go kaput when accidents happen is better than one that doesn't.


  • Posts: 5,238 ✭✭✭[Deleted User]


    Sure but your fitter ought have never wired it to enable it to overload. 101.


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  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 5,755 Mod ✭✭✭✭graememk


    Sure but your fitter ought have never wired it to enable it to overload. 101.

    Hence the sub boards etc.

    Could you have it doing something fancy like coming through a 10 amp breaker before going to the changeover switch or something like that to protect it? then removing the need for a sub board?


  • Posts: 5,238 ✭✭✭[Deleted User]


    Split the loads into grid supply and backup. Ie feed the grid loads direct and put the changeover between the mission critical stuff. Standard boaty thing.


  • Registered Users Posts: 3,954 ✭✭✭mp3guy


    Sure but your fitter ought have never wired it to enable it to overload. 101.

    I don't have a fitter or anything wired. 101. :pac:


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