Hot water from tap too hot, Evohome

jeffk

We have a Honeywell Evohome kit with the water kit installed(via electric Ireland)

Normally the temperature reading can go weird and lead to issues but that just means need to change batteries

But I've done that and checked the sensor on the tank, rebinded everything but still water boiling from tap

I have it at 60 with 10 difference, but even if its 20 or 60 it's boiling

We don't have a combi boiler and I'm wondering is our system not able to use this setup or is something plumed wrong

xl500

jeffk wrote: »

We have a Honeywell Evohome kit with the water kit installed(via electric Ireland)

Normally the temperature reading can go weird and lead to issues but that just means need to change batteries

But I've done that and checked the sensor on the tank, rebinded everything but still water boiling from tap

I have it at 60 with 10 difference, but even if its 20 or 60 it's boiling

We don't have a combi boiler and I'm wondering is our system not able to use this setup or is something plumed wrong

Is it a new Evohome install ie did it work before and has now failed or has it never worked

Sounds like your hot water is getting to full Boiler temp

Evohome is supposed to open -close Hot water Valve depending on tank temp and time schedule set your tank temperature down and see if the Hot water Valve closes

I presume you have a normal vented hot water tank

jeffk

Yes it was put in in 2015 by Electric Ireland, the only issue is when the two AA batteries die in the sensor that's then strapped to boiler.
Two years ago I was on here as that went badly wrong but managed to bind them to controller eventually.

We have and it does and makes a whirring noise, and then a lever you can put it to auto or open I think, it's hard to see
This is then wired into a box, like another one we have that green light comes on when heating comes on

We have one that was changed over in 2014 to one of the new ones with green around it and its brown inside that (the insulation was cut away to strap the sensor to)

jeffk

Moved the switch over and it moved back to auto

GreeBo

When you say that its boiling, what temp actually is it?

Do you have mixer taps or individual hot and cold?

jeffk

GreeBo wrote: »

When you say that its boiling, what temp actually is it?

Do you have mixer taps or individual hot and cold?

It's to go to 60 with 10 difference so I think settles to 50. But even when say 26 it was as hot as 50 on controller etc

Yeah mixer taps on all taps, so can do the hot and cold so, don't take skin off your hands

I'm wondering why it wasn't like this before though

xl500

jeffk wrote: »

We have and it does and makes a whirring noise, and then a lever you can put it to auto or open I think, it's hard to see
This is then wired into a box, like another one we have that green light comes on when heating comes on

The box that has the green light on that the Hot Water Valve is wired into this is the relay box that Evohome uses to drive your Hot water valve the Green Light should be on when Hot Water Temp is below Setpt and Hot Water is on and it should be off when Hot Water is above setpt or Hot water is off

So check if Green light goes off when Hot Water Temp is above setpoint if Green light stays on then Hot water valve is open all the time and water will reach Boiler Temperature

If Green light stays on all the time then its not setup properly possibly binding was done wrong etc

jeffk

xl500 wrote: »

The box that has the green light on that the Hot Water Valve is wired into this is the relay box that Evohome uses to drive your Hot water valve the Green Light should be on when Hot Water Temp is below Setpt and Hot Water is on and it should be off when Hot Water is above setpt or Hot water is off

So check if Green light goes off when Hot Water Temp is above setpoint if Green light stays on then Hot water valve is open all the time and water will reach Boiler Temperature

If Green light stays on all the time then its not setup properly possibly binding was done wrong etc

Yeah it comes and on and off and then you can hear the thing in the box moving when green light on

I found out the hard way to bind them the last time I had issues, I had to re bind the whole system

xl500

jeffk wrote: »

Yeah it comes and on and off and then you can hear the thing in the box moving when green light on

I found out the hard way to bind them the last time I had issues, I had to re bind the whole system

switch off Hot Water then switch on heating HW green light should now be off the pipe going into your tank from Hot water valve should be cool indicating no flow through HW Valve

jeffk

Checking there and hot water at 28 and can put hand under it without visiting burns unit

I dunno how what or why it was acting up and if it is all fixed now

The temps in hot water do drop and rise, Id say will go from around 28 to 50-60 and then drop (have it on for meal time to wash delph and usually stays warm after it for washing hands etc) and repeat

So it seems all setup ok, coms check came back ok, app/controller reading temps changes as expected, everything is binded ok

Hopefully thats end of it

xl500

jeffk wrote: »

Checking there and hot water at 28 and can put hand under it without visiting burns unit

I dunno how what or why it was acting up and if it is all fixed now

The temps in hot water do drop and rise, Id say will go from around 28 to 50-60 and then drop (have it on for meal time to wash delph and usually stays warm after it for washing hands etc) and repeat

So it seems all setup ok, coms check came back ok, app/controller reading temps changes as expected, everything is binded ok

Hopefully thats end of it

The box that the sensor feeds into the one you have to change the batteries in for HW Sensor they are notorious for poor battery connections to electronic board inside the unit if you open unit you will see two small spring contacts that connect to board these are usually not tensioned enough you can bend them out a little to increase contact tension but if its working now then thats good mine is set for 56c and 3c difference this means it maintains it close to 56

jeffk

xl500 wrote: »

The box that the sensor feeds into the one you have to change the batteries in for HW Sensor they are notorious for poor battery connections to electronic board inside the unit if you open unit you will see two small spring contacts that connect to board these are usually not tensioned enough you can bend them out a little to increase contact tension but if its working now then thats good mine is set for 56c and 3c difference this means it maintains it close to 56

Yeah ive looked thanks, even had to sign up for a forum and seen all the different ideas

Done what you said with battery connectors (then people on about 1.5v, special batteries/brands)
Took the sensor out of the box and moved the wire as much as i can away from pipes etc and then tried cleaning the sensor and where it went went to be sure
Some say terminal paste (i had some and threw out), but I think tank isnt metal
On about moving it certain distance, but doesn't look easy to take off and then I seen price (E112) so wasn't attempting that

Do you find 56c and 3c is the best setup?

I only have it 60c and 10c with what limited information i can find

xl500

I find my settings work fine 60 seems very hot and why would you want a 10 degree differential the whole idea is to keep the water near the settings

jeffk

xl500 wrote: »

I find my settings work fine 60 seems very hot and why would you want a 10 degree differential the whole idea is to keep the water near the settings

Thanks for info and replies

I'll change water setting so