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Zetor Proxima 4WD issue

  • 29-12-2019 10:42pm
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 968 ✭✭✭


    I have a 2012 Proxima 85 and the 4WD has always given issues. It's supposed to be on by default and the button on the dash turns it off to 2WD if you want. It's mainly my auld lad driving it,so I'm not sure when this started.

    It's stuck in 2WD mode and the button on the dash does fu*k all. in the past few years I've changed the solenoid twice (not the problem as I've tested the latest with a 12V supply) and now I think the Ram is jammed in the 2WD position.

    I don't need the 4WD much, but when you need it you need it. I went under the tractor the last day and disconnected the lever from the Ram and pulled it down to what I think is the 4WD position and tied it in. Could this damage the transmission in any way or is it just on or off ifkwim?

    How would you fix the ram, a few belts of a hammer and dose it with WD40 or does it need replacing?

    Thanks in advance


Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 19,585 ✭✭✭✭Bass Reeves


    Looked at a Zetor proxima before I bought the McCormick I have now. It was around 2011 tractor as well. It was 110HP I think. There was a whine off the 4wd and it was slipping in and out. It was the lad checking it that spotted it. He did a bit of research and the 4wd gives issues and it is not always electrical. I would get it checked as tractor we looked at was in a bit of a mess in his opinion. Zetor mechanic he was speaking to warned us away from the tractor at any price. It was a nice tractor to to use and was priced around what a mainstream brand tractor (Case, JD, NH or MF) 10 years older would cost. I was tempted to buy and fix but Zetor Mechanic put me off it.

    Slava Ukrainii



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,458 ✭✭✭hopeso


    It wouldn’t be a good idea to have it in 4wd all the time. Any road or yard work will soon do damage to the front axle or transmission.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,181 ✭✭✭Lady Haywire


    When we got our Proxima this year, we were told to keep it in 2WD & only switch to 4WD (with the dash switch, assume same as yours) when needed?
    Any reason why you have yours on by default? I understand if it's mainly field work but surely 4WD is zero use on the road.

    (Disclaimer- I know fcuk all about tractors, am only learning since we got this one! just wondering about the different manner of driving :D )


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 968 ✭✭✭Count Mondego


    Thanks for the replies guy. I must be wrong about the 4WD by default, read it on a forum and may be relating to a different Zetor model.

    I definitely only want 2WD for the majority of the work but need the 4WD from time to time. If I got a Zetor mechanic out to see it you'd be looking at five or six hundred quid by the time he'd head out the gate :-)

    On the same note, it's chronic how bad information like this on the web. You'd be surprised that's there's not more info out there online.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,537 ✭✭✭J.O. Farmer


    When we got our Proxima this year, we were told to keep it in 2WD & only switch to 4WD (with the dash switch, assume same as yours) when needed?
    Any reason why you have yours on by default? I understand if it's mainly field work but surely 4WD is zero use on the road.

    (Disclaimer- I know fcuk all about tractors, am only learning since we got this one! just wondering about the different manner of driving :D )

    I think the op means that 12v power is required to keep it out of 4WD. The switch on the dash actually turns off the solenoid and puts the tractor in 4WD.

    Yes driving anywhere where there is no give will do bad things mechanically. The front wheels and back wheels could be rotating at slightly different rates due to tyre wear for example. If there's no give in the ground or the wheels can't spin all the force goes through the tractor mechanics.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,458 ✭✭✭hopeso


    Thanks for the replies guy. I must be wrong about the 4WD by default, read it on a forum and may be relating to a different Zetor model.

    I definitely only want 2WD for the majority of the work but need the 4WD from time to time. If I got a Zetor mechanic out to see it you'd be looking at five or six hundred quid by the time he'd head out the gate :-)

    Most modern tractors are designed with 4wd on by default. It's a safety measure, in so far as if something in the system fails, you are left with 4wd on, as opposed to loosing 4wd on the side of a slippery hill....But, that doesn't mean you are supposed to have it on all the time. The switch is there to turn it off, and that's how it should be until 4wd is needed. 4wd should never be used on a hard surface or on the road....


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,458 ✭✭✭hopeso


    I think the op means that 12v power is required to keep it out of 4WD. The switch on the dash actually turns off the solenoid and puts the tractor in 4WD.

    Yes driving anywhere where there is no give will do bad things mechanically. The front wheels and back wheels could be rotating at slightly different rates due to tyre wear for example. If there's no give in the ground or the wheels can't spin all the force goes through the tractor mechanics.

    The front and back wheels rotate at different rates by design. When 4wd drive is on, the front wheels are rotating slightly faster than the rears. This is grand on soft ground with some give, but as you say, a complete no no on solid ground.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 19,585 ✭✭✭✭Bass Reeves


    Thanks for the replies guy. I must be wrong about the 4WD by default, read it on a forum and may be relating to a different Zetor model.

    I definitely only want 2WD for the majority of the work but need the 4WD from time to time. If I got a Zetor mechanic out to see it you'd be looking at five or six hundred quid by the time he'd head out the gate :-)

    On the same note, it's chronic how bad information like this on the web. You'd be surprised that's there's not more info out there online.

    The tractor I saw would take 3-5k to fix. It is better to fix it now rather than doing damage that will cost thousands to fix in 6-12 months time. Mechanics have got much better with electrics than 5 years ago so check around. This tractor is now 9 years old lads will have come across this issue and repair may be easy.

    Remember shuttles in 390's costing over a thousand to fix and gear splitters cases costing a lot of that not both fixes are sub 500 euro

    Even a chat with s lad in a Zetor main dealer parts store may sort you out

    Slava Ukrainii



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