Shave 20mm off end of concrete wall?

riemann

Have a portion of a cast section of a wall which is blocking a gate from swinging both ways.

Need to shave about 10/20mm max off the concrete to get gate swinging again.



Wall appprox 250/300mm wide and need to clear about 1.2m in height for gate.

All I can think of is running the consaw up each side and chiselling out the centre which would leave a very rough job.

Is there a better way?

Ninthlife

riemann wrote: »

Have a portion of a cast section of a wall which is blocking a gate from swinging both ways.

Need to shave about 10/20mm max off the concrete to get gate swinging again.



Wall appprox 250/300mm wide and need to clear about 1.2m in height for gate.

All I can think of is running the consaw up each side and chiselling out the centre which would leave a very rough job.

Is there a better way?

Shave 20mm off the gate?

riemann

Ninthlife wrote: »

Shave 20mm off the gate?

Good shout, I'm brutal at welding but it could be handier than hacking away at the concrete.

Galv tube gate, would need to be cut and welded back together.

kieran.

Bow/bend the gate in the middle to reduce the length. Might not be pretty but would be the simplest solution.

Avns1s

Could you shorten up the hinges by any chance?

Ronney

You can get diamond tipped grinder Disks. Could use on own if not to much to grind or smooth off post consaw

Like this,

https://www.ie.screwfix.com/segmented-diamond-grinding-cup-125-x-22-2mm.html?utm_source=Google&utm_medium=CPC&utm_campaign=Shopping&gclid=Cj0KCQiA-4nuBRCnARIsAHwyuPqw0In-MANziFZl7Fgwyt6i2LosIwhMh5yysSz3jrnBANCKJDKXG4gaAowBEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds

GrasstoMilk

Could you get a gate made to fit it?

SuperTortoise

Cut gate and reweld is simplest solution, no joke knocking 20mm off that wall.

If gate is hanging on RSJ, cut hinges shorter, if hanging on wall cut pocket into wall for hinges so long as you have enough clearence for the gate to open without fowling on the wall the hinges are on.

GreeBo

as many have said, whats the story with the hinge side of the gate?

hopeso

If the end of the wall is curved like it is in the drawing, it shouldn't be too bad of a job with a kango. Have something to stand on as you move up the wall, so you won't be trying to lift the kango. You could probably hire a hydraulic beaker for a little more than the kango if you want some real power. Plaster up the face of the wall after....

Who2

Mark a clean plumb line either side, drop the con saw in from both sides and then break it off. You could rub the rough up a bit using a diamond blade in a four inch grinder. But the simplest option is adapt the hinges.

jack of all

If you're not fussy about the finish you could use a diamond disc in an angle grinder and cut some 20mm deep chases horizontally, working down the face, maybe 50mm gaps between them. Breaker with a 50mm chisel should be able to chip away the waste....

Farmer Dan

A wall chaser like the electricians use?

riemann

Hinges are bolted to the wall with no room to play with, as gate already flush with wall.

kurtainsider

hopeso wrote: »

If the end of the wall is curved like it is in the drawing, it shouldn't be too bad of a job with a kango. Have something to stand on as you move up the wall, so you won't be trying to lift the kango. You could probably hire a hydraulic beaker for a little more than the kango if you want some real power. Plaster up the face of the wall after....

Have to agree with hopeso. If the end of the wall is convex it's probably only plaster which should be easy enough to chip off with a kango. Cutting the blocks is a slightly bigger deal but no more than an hours work with a consaw or good angle grinder and disc.

riemann

Think cutting and welding might be the simplest option.

The welder I have is 30 years old and only runs off the three phase power so not portable.

Can anyone recommend a portable arc welder for simple DIY jobs around the farm?

riemann

kurtainsider wrote: »

Have to agree with hopeso. If the end of the wall is convex it's probably only plaster which should be easy enough to chip off with a kango. Cutting the blocks is a slightly bigger deal but no more than an hours work with a consaw or good angle grinder and disc.

Afraid its mass concrete, poured in as wall had started to give way at the bottom due to being hit with yard scraper.

kurtainsider

riemann wrote: »

Afraid its mass concrete, poured in as wall had started to give way at the bottom due to being hit with yard scraper.

I suggest that you fire up the old grinder. An hour should do it with a decent setup.

Iodine1

Maybe hire a standard welder from tool hire and use the normal power you would use for the grinders etc? When you go hammering at that wall it very likely won't be a clean cut.

hopeso

What kind of gate is it? If it's the galvanised type that you buy on the co-op, the stuff in it will be very light and easily burned through with the welder. You'll also burn off the galvanise with the welder....

pablo128

hopeso wrote: »

What kind of gate is it? If it's the galvanised type that you buy on the co-op, the stuff in it will be very light and easily burned through with the welder. You'll also burn off the galvanise with the welder....

The fumes from welding galvanised wouldn't be great for you at all.

hopeso

Another option might be to buy a new adjustable gate. They would be heavier than a standard gate, as they’re mostly designed for dividing gates in sheds. But, saying that I saw lighter ones in a local co-op recently. Anyway, once you hang it you just extend it out to whatever length you need, and tighten up the bolts...

10-10-20

I'd hit it with the ankle-grinder and that grinding cup mentioned previously. I have used a diamond blade (Chadwicks) on concrete previously but they are designed for use perpendicular to the surface and not for lateral 'sanding'/scraping, but I've done it and they can clear a fair bit of concrete in a short time.

longgonesilver

riemann wrote: »

Hinges are bolted to the wall with no room to play with, as gate already flush with wall.

Can you move them sideways? So the gate meets the corner of the wall.
Gate will swing both ways then. You might have to make some sort of a plate to receive the bolt.

mo-chara1

Hire yourself a consaw with a 14" blade, hook up the water to it, job done in no time. A consaw with a good blade and water will eat through it and leave as clean a finish as the material will allow.

148multi

Vertical cuts with consaw, 3/4 inch spacing to the required dept use lump hammer to chip off sideways, will break like dominoes, clean with chisle.

Wildsurfer

riemann wrote: »

Have a portion of a cast section of a wall which is blocking a gate from swinging both ways.

Need to shave about 10/20mm max off the concrete to get gate swinging again.



Wall appprox 250/300mm wide and need to clear about 1.2m in height for gate.

All I can think of is running the consaw up each side and chiselling out the centre which would leave a very rough job.

Is there a better way?

Nice diagram! What did you draw that on?

hopeso

Wildsurfer wrote: »

Nice diagram! What did you draw that on?

I was thinking it probably took longer to draw that than it will to take the 20mm off the wall, with the right tools.....

patsy_mccabe

Just fire whoever measured it in the first place.

riemann

hopeso wrote: »

I was thinking it probably took longer to draw that than it will to take the 20mm off the wall, with the right tools.....

Sadly I imagine it would take a lot longer than 2 mins to knock out the concrete.

I'm quite good at drawing you see, and have the necessary tools at hand.

riemann

Wildsurfer wrote: »

What did you draw that on?

Archicad

TheBoyConor

Use a consaw and cut from both sides. If the concrete in that wall is anything like i see used on farms up and down the country the consaw will go through it like a hot knife through butter. Concrete mixes used on farms usually seems to be absolute rubbish. especially so if it was site mixed. Even readymix suppliers are probably going to deliver poor quality mixes to farms because they know that there is no testing or quality control on those jobs.

Melodeon

There are plenty of companies around the country who specialise in cutting concrete, who would do a superbly neat, clean and straight job of this, but I suspect the costs might be pretty steep for a tiny job (by their standards) like this.
Still, it might be worth a few phone calls to see.
Google "core drilling ireland" for loads of possibilities.

I'd say the big con-saw with a diamond blade and water hose suggested above is probably the most realistic option.

hopeso

riemann wrote: »

Sadly I imagine it would take a lot longer than 2 mins to knock out the concrete.

I'm quite good at drawing you see, and have the necessary tools at hand.

Horses for courses, as they say..... I know which of the two jobs I'd make better headway at....

Taking 20mm off the wall isn't an impossibly hard job though, especially with modern tools. Certainly easier than trying to shorten the gate. If you don't feel competent to tackle it yourself, any reasonably talented handy man will be capable..

Attie Ross

Could you not move anchor points as this would move gate away from closing point might help.

CJhaughey

I can't believe that cutting concrete is preferable to cutting a steel gate!
Honestly a decent welder would have that gate cut and welded in a fraction of the time and effort it would take to consaw through that much concrete.

hopeso

mo-chara1 wrote: »

Hire yourself a consaw with a 14" blade, hook up the water to it, job done in no time. A consaw with a good blade and water will eat through it and leave as clean a finish as the material will allow.

Handiest and tidiest method, in fairness.... If the wall is 300mm, and you can cut from both sides, you should be left with a clean face with that size of disc.....

hopeso

CJhaughey wrote: »

I can't believe that cutting concrete is preferable to cutting a steel gate!
Honestly a decent welder would have that gate cut and welded in a fraction of the time and effort it would take to consaw through that much concrete.

The gate isn't steel...It's a light galvanised job. A tip of the welder will burn it like paper. Sure, a skilled welder could do it, at a cost. Then, how do you replace the burned off galvanise after him?

Cavanjack

hopeso wrote: »

The gate isn't steel...It's a light galvanised job. A tip of the welder will burn it like paper. Sure, a skilled welder could do it, at a cost. Then, how do you replace the burned off galvanise after him?

It is steel with galvanised protection on it. Cut the gate and take 30mm off it the. Insert a slightly smaller pipe into the tubes You have cut and push the gate tubes over these smaller pipes and weld. No more than a half hour job. A bit of grey paint on the welds or if You are fussy but a can of Galco spray.

Hagimalone

If you cant cut the concrete yourself or you dont know a handy man that could do it, id buy a new gate and you'll surely get to reuse the old one in another spot. What width is gate?

TheBoyConor

Melodeon wrote: »

There are plenty of companies around the country who specialise in cutting concrete, who would do a superbly neat, clean and straight job of this, but I suspect the costs might be pretty steep for a tiny job (by their standards) like this.
Still, it might be worth a few phone calls to see.
Google "core drilling ireland" for loads of possibilities.

Lol, you must be joking! No concrete coring/cutting contractor is going to come to a farm in the sticks to trim 20mm off of a wall. These lads are all flat out with the bigger construction contractors.
They wouldn't start the van to come out for some mickey mouse job in a farm yard 10 miles from anywhere nor would they get out of bed for the sort of money a farmer would be paying them.

Bullocks

TheBoyConor wrote: »

Lol, you must be joking! No concrete coring/cutting contractor is going to come to a farm in the sticks to trim 20mm off of a wall. These lads are all flat out with the bigger construction contractors.
They wouldn't start the van to come out for some mickey mouse job in a farm yard 10 miles from anywhere nor would they get out of bed for the sort of money a farmer would be paying them.

You never know , despite being busy I still do the odd small job in an evening or a couple of hours when I get a chance for neighbours . Its nice to be nice and when things go quiet again the big construction contractors will be fast to leave you sucking your thumb

chooseusername

Op , why do you want it swing both ways, by the way?
and will it clear the ground on the other side if you do get it to swing out(or in).
A few stripes down the point of the wall with consaw,
the deepest is only going to be an inch deep,
then club hammer and bolster ,
forget about cutting and rewelding gate, moving old hinges, etc.
An hour or so would do it.

TheBoyConor

Consaw it from wither side. If you get 75mm into it each side there will be very little left in the middle to chisel away with a breaker.

bogman_bass

hopeso wrote: »

The gate isn't steel...It's a light galvanised job. A tip of the welder will burn it like paper. Sure, a skilled welder could do it, at a cost. Then, how do you replace the burned off galvanise after him?

Can’t be any more than hiring a big con saw and a kango

Mango Joe

To my mind an easy way to do this would be to cut the wall down quickly very slightly shorter than the desired final length and then neatly trowel on and smooth over a perfect cement render finish?

cjpm

Mango Joe is on the money.

If only he was Kango Joe he could give the OP a hand....

hopeso

bogman_bass wrote: »

Can’t be any more than hiring a big con saw and a kango

He won’t need to hire both. Either one of them will do the job. At the end of the day, it’s the wall that’s wrong. Sure there’s a bit of effort involved to sort it, but it’s a once off job. I don’t understand the fear of concrete that a lot of people seem to have.

cjpm

hopeso wrote: »

He won’t need to hire both. Either one of them will do the job. At the end of the day, it’s the wall that’s wrong. Sure there’s a bit of effort involved to sort it, but it’s a once off job. I don’t understand the fear of concrete that a lot of people seem to have.

Forget the kango. Con saw slots 20mm apart. Slightly deeper than required. 30 mins cutting.

Break out the pieces with a lump hammer. 10 mins.

Wash away all the dust

Mix 2 buckets of mortar and plaster end of wall. 30 mins

Job done.

J.O. Farmer

hopeso wrote: »

He won’t need to hire both. Either one of them will do the job. At the end of the day, it’s the wall that’s wrong. Sure there’s a bit of effort involved to sort it, but it’s a once off job. I don’t understand the fear of concrete that a lot of people seem to have.

Do it once and do it right. The gate might not last forever and any new gate will need to be shortened too.

It's tricky to shorten a gate and leave it looking like it was always that way.