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Another Polycarbonate roof thread - leaks at joints

  • 06-11-2019 2:41pm
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 351 ✭✭


    an easy one for the experts.

    we have a large polycarbonate roof out the back of the house. its runs at an angle downward from the house to the garden and also at an angle downward from house at side area / old covered alleyway. Great run off when raining.

    its quite old now, 15 yrs or so and has seen us through the winters while holding 2 to 3.5 feet of snow during winters and no leaks. ( we do scrape off when it builds up of course)

    however, the area where the polycarb sheets slide in / connect into the frame coming from the roof are weeping with heavy rain on the inside. The old silicon or whatever it was is coming away.

    Q1) if the roof can take 4 mtrs x 2.5mtrs of snow during the winter 2 feet thick, could i lay a board across the slats and try fix myself - only problem is the pitch, its steep enough to slide off ?

    Q2) how do i go about fixing, re-silocne ? Os is there another method.

    ive attached aerial pic and also close up pcs fyi to help with a visual

    the red highlighted areas are where its leaking.

    tks in advance.


    E50if8.jpg
    PWQevP.jpg
    8ocCry.png


Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 18,126 ✭✭✭✭Idbatterim


    Yeah I’d be trying clear silicone first !


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 351 ✭✭Banzai600


    thats what i thought, but im nevrous about going up on the roof, its not very high, but its average 1st floor height, not rice to roll off.

    plus i need to know what to seal it back up with if i take the old stuff out.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 18,126 ✭✭✭✭Idbatterim


    Banzai600 wrote: »
    thats what i thought, but im nevrous about going up on the roof, its not very high, but its average 1st floor height, not rice to roll off.

    plus i need to know what to seal it back up with if i take the old stuff out.
    Yeah. But there is virtually no fall on it. Can’t see how you’d roll off. I’d prop up the supports on the inside with a 2x4 timber etc though , just under the area you are working


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 351 ✭✭Banzai600


    Idbatterim wrote: »
    Yeah. But there is virtually no fall on it. Can’t see how you’d roll off. I’d prop up the supports on the inside with a 2x4 timber etc though , just under the area you are working


    ahh right, i never thought of that re supporting underneath. wooden raised floor too in the room so it could be springy.

    the fall of the roof is not really too harsh, but its enough if you were to start moving to slide off.




    still need to figure out of removing old silicone and using any good silicone to re-seal?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 34,216 ✭✭✭✭listermint


    Banzai600 wrote: »
    ahh right, i never thought of that re supporting underneath. wooden raised floor too in the room so it could be springy.

    the fall of the roof is not really too harsh, but its enough if you were to start moving to slide off.




    still need to figure out of removing old silicone and using any good silicone to re-seal?

    pull all loose bits off , replace with tech 7 clear silicone


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 12,881 ✭✭✭✭Calahonda52


    Prop them them underneath as you don't want too much flexing.
    I have this design and what should have been put in there is rubber beads, which make clipping the pieces together hard, so your guys used silicone...
    .
    What I did to stop the sliding off was fit small s/s brackets with self tapping s/s screws to the end of the alu bars and then put lengths of 2 by 2 treated timber across between them to act as a support. A hole in the vertical piece of the bracket allowed me to screw the 2 by 2 in place, with 1/2 & 1/2 joints as required.
    .
    I just left it in place.
    .
    I no longer live there so no pictures
    .
    Fitting the brackets took some time as I drilled pilot holes for the self tappers but it is 100% safe.

    “I can’t pay my staff or mortgage with instagram likes”.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 351 ✭✭Banzai600


    Prop them them underneath as you don't want too much flexing.
    I have this design and what should have been put in there is rubber beads, which make clipping the pieces together hard, so your guys used silicone...
    .
    What I did to stop the sliding off was fit small s/s brackets with self tapping s/s screws to the end of the alu bars and then put lengths of 2 by 2 treated timber across between them to act as a support. A hole in the vertical piece of the bracket allowed me to screw the 2 by 2 in place, with 1/2 & 1/2 joints as required.
    .
    I just left it in place.
    .
    I no longer live there so no pictures
    .
    Fitting the brackets took some time as I drilled pilot holes for the self tappers but it is 100% safe.




    thanks v much, appreciate it.


    i want to get it done before the winter comes in, as the last snow, we were coming home from work and there was usually 3' of it on the roof, but in fairness it held. The silicone seems to have dried up and its coming away, hence the leaks


    thanks for the tips.


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