Advertisement
If you have a new account but are having problems posting or verifying your account, please email us on hello@boards.ie for help. Thanks :)
Hello all! Please ensure that you are posting a new thread or question in the appropriate forum. The Feedback forum is overwhelmed with questions that are having to be moved elsewhere. If you need help to verify your account contact hello@boards.ie
Hi there,
There is an issue with role permissions that is being worked on at the moment.
If you are having trouble with access or permissions on regional forums please post here to get access: https://www.boards.ie/discussion/2058365403/you-do-not-have-permission-for-that#latest

Power options for 5v USB?

  • 18-09-2019 8:10pm
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 17,282 ✭✭✭✭


    Hello great minds of the IoT forum!

    I have a little conundrum I need some sage advice on ;)
    I'm installing a smart alarm in my Mancave and received the kit today.
    The alarm hub itself is 5v USB DC powered with a built in battery back up.
    Now I can certainly run a long cable to the unit, but aesthetics and curiosity mean I want to try and hide any cable to the unit.

    So my closest power source to where I'd ideally want to mount it is a light switch.
    Is there any encapsulated 240v to 5v transformer that I could piggy back onto the light supply?

    Or how have other boardsies dealt with similar power supply issues?
    Any steer would be appreciated.


Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 10,952 ✭✭✭✭Stoner


    Do you mean some monstrosity like this ?


    https://images.app.goo.gl/J9bPJA8iJ3KSMEfp8


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 17,282 ✭✭✭✭banie01


    Stoner wrote: »
    Do you mean some monstrosity like this ?


    https://images.app.goo.gl/J9bPJA8iJ3KSMEfp8

    Good Christ no!

    Basically I have a control unit that is powered by Micro USB.
    The ideal spot to locate the unit is above a light switch, so I'm trying to gauge the easiest way to supply 5v DC to a usb from the switch housing, rather than run a 3 or 4mtr cable up the wall.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 10,952 ✭✭✭✭Stoner


    Ok well first thing even if you are lucky enough to have a neutral cable at the light switch, you can't connect a socket to it as the cabling is too small and it has no ELCB Protection at the consumer unit.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 17,282 ✭✭✭✭banie01


    Piggy backing off the light switch doesn't seem to be an option so I figured out a way to mount the control unit in a less ideal place.
    It still works out quite well to allow easy access to arm and disarm the panel on entry and exit.
    https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/OldFl9Ji

    Quite pleased with the alarm panel and set up in all aspects really bar one.
    Set up is a control panel with WiFi and SIM connection.
    Sensors are 433mhz, have a couple of magnetic contacts, a smoke alarm and a PIR set up to cover the Mancave and the shed all controlled via the Smartlife app and integrated into Google Assistant.
    Also came with remote fobs with panic buttons and RFID tags to arm/disarm as well as keypad and app control.

    If I can find some half decent glass break or inertia sensors to cover the windows it might be a quite decent cheapo system really.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 14,048 ✭✭✭✭Johnboy1951


    Stoner wrote: »
    Ok well first thing even if you are lucky enough to have a neutral cable at the light switch, you can't connect a socket to it as the cabling is too small and it has no ELCB Protection at the consumer unit.

    How do you know?
    Mine have had protection for many decades, same as the sockets.
    It all depends on the individual installation.

    Also, the wiring for the lights would be easily capable of powering a 5v charger for a battery. Most are on 10A mains fuses.


  • Advertisement
Advertisement