Digger over heating!

Ex135

I’m at my wits end with an ex135 over heating , after a half hour it starts to get warm and will eventually climb to the red, but when I lift the bonnet and leave up it will work perfect all day, so far I’ve refurbed the radiator, new thermostat, new filters, new radiator cap, new temperature sensor, refurbed the turbo and new exhaust. When it’s running you can see the water circulating perfect in the radiator and it’s not building any pressure. Any help would be appreciated!!

mayota

Ex135 wrote: »

I’m at my wits end with an ex135 over heating , after a half hour it starts to get warm and will eventually climb to the red, but when I lift the bonnet and leave up it will work perfect all day, so far I’ve refurbed the radiator, new thermostat, new filters, new radiator cap, new temperature sensor, refurbed the turbo and new exhaust. When it’s running you can see the water circulating perfect in the radiator and it’s not building any pressure. Any help would be appreciated!!

Would the oil cooler be dirty and stopping the air passing through to the radiator?

Ex135

mayota wrote: »

Would the oil cooler be dirty and stopping the air passing through to the radiator?

I’ve all both blown out and power washed as well

Nekarsulm

Is it really overheating if its not building pressure?
Faulty guage?
Incorrect rating of thermostat? (Run it without, to eliminate this pissibility)

Or a real Wild Card guess, fan replaced backwards? (Why else does temp stay in the green when engine cover is open ?)

Ex135

Nekarsulm wrote: »

Is it really overheating if its not building pressure?
Faulty guage?
Incorrect rating of thermostat? (Run it without, to eliminate this pissibility)

Or a real Wild Card guess, fan replaced backwards? (Why else does temp stay in the green when engine cover is open ?)

I have taken the thermostat out and warms up still, I’ve compared the fan with another ex135 the same and no damage , it seems to pull well because if you hold a rag up it will suck it to the oil cooler! The engine is getting hot you’d know it when you lift the bonnet!

patsy_mccabe

Have a look a this video. Similar problem and he shows how to solve it.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0Dv_i2QYDY0

Ex135

patsy_mccabe wrote: »

Have a look a this video. Similar problem and he shows how to solve it.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0Dv_i2QYDY0

It might be worth a try , I can see the water circulating in the radiator but mightn’t be enough! I’ve a fortune spent with no result!!

patsy_mccabe

I've workd with industrials hydraulics for years and I've seen hydraulic circuits over heating. It's either one of two things, either the machine isn't dissipating enough excess heat or it's generating too much excess heat to begin with.

In the first case, it may look like it's cooling ok, but the water pump might not be pumping enough or the radiators are blocked a little, but not enough to notice.

In the second case - generating too much excess heat. This can happen it a pressure relief valve is working constantly when it shouldn't. This will cause the hydraulic circuit to over heat. To solve this, you need to measure all the pressures at the relevant points and see if any are set incorrectly. You will need the hydraulic circuit drawing with the correct pressure settings for this.

Nekarsulm

Ex135 wrote: »

It might be worth a try , I can see the water circulating in the radiator but mightn’t be enough! I’ve a fortune spent with no result!!

I have a John Deere 3140, and for a short while Deere sold water pumps with plastic impellers press fitted to the pump shaft.
These would loosen and quit flowing the water.

Its still strange that opening the cover is enough to make a difference.

148multi

Are the vanes of the oil cooler and rad closed /flatned from power hosing

Odelay

148multi wrote: »

Are the vanes of the oil cooler and rad closed /flatned from power hosing

This is very possible. We have banned to use of power washers on the radiators, too many fins bent over.
Don’t even like using air as the lads tend to blow them out both ways, instead of one direction only.

milligan2

Had the same problem with a 75 hitachi,spent a fortune trying to sort it.
In the end I spotted than some idiot took off a one of the fins that traps the air to keep the engine cool.its bolted onto the top of the engine block,make sure the engine hood insulation is in good nick too.
Check a similar machine to see are you missing on of said fins.

Donald Trump

Any chance the radiator (or pipes) are blocked on the inside with scale or rust?

Pod123

Strange it runs right with the cover open.
When the cover is closed can it pinch or close a hose and slow circulation or is there something on the inside of the cover that might fall over the radiator??

Thepillowman

Remember a good few years ago a neighbour bought a Ford 7810 and it started overheating .Garage owner came numerous times first flushing cooling system ,changed water pump,new radiator and removed head pressure tested it and new head gasket.Still boiled after he told my neighbour he would bring up someone else to look at it and change tractor if it couldn't be sorted .Guy arrives looks it over asks did ye change fan belt was told no we didn't its in good condition.Put new belt on and put it agitating tractor never boiled gain and was traded about 10 yrs later.Your man reckoned belts get hard and glazed over time and slip without screeching.

M7roadrunner

patsy_mccabe wrote: »

I've workd with industrials hydraulics for years and I've seen hydraulic circuits over heating. It's either one of two things, either the machine isn't dissipating enough excess heat or it's generating too much excess heat to begin with.

In the first case, it may look like it's cooling ok, but the water pump might not be pumping enough or the radiators are blocked a little, but not enough to notice.

In the second case - generating too much excess heat. This can happen it a pressure relief valve is working constantly when it shouldn't. This will cause the hydraulic circuit to over heat. To solve this, you need to measure all the pressures at the relevant points and see if any are set incorrectly. You will need the hydraulic circuit drawing with the correct pressure settings for this.

Ive had an issue with a much smaller digger a while back, it would run for about twenty minutes before overheating. Fan belt changed, radiator flushed first and then changed, stat removed, all to no avail.
When the operator mentioned that it was a hard starter even with jump leads attached that I looked at the hydraulic systems. It turned out I had a sticking (aux) valve that put the engine under constant load once the engine was running, heating the coolant and the hyd. oil.
Once the sticking valve was repaired the overheating stopped.

mayota

Just thinking of this today. Is the air pre-cleaner on the bonnet? If so it could be blocked and smothering the engine when closed.