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1.8 flexifuel drinking oil

  • 20-03-2019 10:26pm
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 82 ✭✭


    I've a 07 V50 1.8 flexifuel and it's not too good on oil. Haven't done a compression test on it but thinking its something like valve stem seals as I cant see blue smoke all the time but can see it after idling for a bit. I developed a P0400 code today so its clearly gumming up with oil. Is there much work in changing stem seals. I've never took off a chain or did timing on a car so dont even know where to start. I've an engineering background but if it's too much work tooling etc could someone reccomend somewhere to get it looked at in the Dublin area. Car stands me not too much but in saying that it's full leather heated seats etc and buying a house so I'd like to see another year from it. I've read a few bits and people are saying do a kerosene flush to remove carbon if rings are possibly stuck . Rather see it right that be sending fumes into the atmosphere


Comments

  • Closed Accounts Posts: 416 ✭✭w211


    You need to figured out where the oil goes. Yes the internal leaks are hard to trace. The best option are to use the UV dye.
    The compression does not tell to you the full story, because it does not tell to you how bad are the oil rings. Even if the compression rings are complete garbage, the oil rings can still function normally.
    P0400 are EGR code.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 82 ✭✭Maxed-irl


    w211 wrote: »
    You need to figured out where the oil goes. Yes the internal leaks are hard to trace. The best option are to use the UV dye.
    The compression does not tell to you the full story, because it does not tell to you how bad are the oil rings. Even if the compression rings are complete garbage, the oil rings can still function normally.
    P0400 are EGR code.

    Its not staining the ground so I'm thinking its maybe valve seals as it's not smoking all the time.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,817 ✭✭✭Tea drinker


    If it smokes on hot start for a few seconds then the valve stems are done.
    Another possibility (cheaper and easier) is the PCV system is all blocked up and forcing oil into the engine. Or a valve in the PCV is gone.
    I don't know if they are turbo or not but a possibility is oil getting past a seal in the turbo.

    As regards kereosene have never tried it, either for your suggestion or sludge cleaning. Have used diesel a fair bit down the years for cleaning sludge as my oil pan can't easily be dropped. Never had an issue and it takes out a lot of hard particles.

    Adding Dipetane to fuel will clean a little bit of the upper combustion chamber... the rings... dunno.

    BTW what is "not too good on oil" how much per 1000 km


  • Moderators, Arts Moderators, Recreation & Hobbies Moderators Posts: 10,885 Mod ✭✭✭✭Hellrazer


    These were known for burning out valves.
    If I remember right it was to do with the whole ethanol percentage.
    Most of the ones I used to see in the workshop were the people that used bio ethanol in them when it was available.
    They were supposed to have strengthened valves and valve seats but they issue was still there.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 82 ✭✭Maxed-irl


    Hellrazer wrote: »
    These were known for burning out valves.
    If I remember right it was to do with the whole ethanol percentage.
    Most of the ones I used to see in the workshop were the people that used bio ethanol in them when it was available.
    They were supposed to have strengthened valves and valve seats but they issue was still there.

    Yeah I only own it two years and since ethanol ain't available I've never used it. Had a service history but servicing every 10k is crazy. Nice car nice spec shame to scrap it for the donkey but the cost to repair ain't worth it


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 82 ✭✭Maxed-irl


    If it smokes on hot start for a few seconds then the valve stems are done.
    Another possibility (cheaper and easier) is the PCV system is all blocked up and forcing oil into the engine. Or a valve in the PCV is gone.
    I don't know if they are turbo or not but a possibility is oil getting past a seal in the turbo.

    As regards kereosene have never tried it, either for your suggestion or sludge cleaning. Have used diesel a fair bit down the years for cleaning sludge as my oil pan can't easily be dropped. Never had an issue and it takes out a lot of hard particles.

    Adding Dipetane to fuel will clean a little bit of the upper combustion chamber... the rings... dunno.

    BTW what is "not too good on oil" how much per 1000 km

    I might try give it a soak from the top of the piston to clean the oil ring worth a try


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,817 ✭✭✭Tea drinker


    Maxed-irl wrote: »
    I might try give it a soak from the top of the piston to clean the oil ring worth a try
    Yeah you could try adding dieptane to the fuel for a couple of tankfuls, see if it improves. Not much work involved in that ;-)

    I would try cleaning up the PCV system, check for blockages, sludge etc.
    You will probably need a few spare hoseclips

    Something to give you ideas:
    https://blog.fcpeuro.com/volvo-pcv-breather-box-guide-symptoms-and-diagnosis


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 82 ✭✭Maxed-irl


    Yeah you could try adding dieptane to the fuel for a couple of tankfuls, see if it improves. Not much work involved in that ;-)

    I would try cleaning up the PCV system, check for blockages, sludge etc.
    You will probably need a few spare hoseclips

    Something to give you ideas:
    https://blog.fcpeuro.com/volvo-pcv-breather-box-guide-symptoms-and-diagnosis

    I cant find a pcv spare anywhere on the net was almost thinking it didn't have one


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,817 ✭✭✭Tea drinker


    Maxed-irl wrote: »
    I cant find a pcv spare anywhere on the net was almost thinking it didn't have one
    Wll even before buying the new one, take the old one off, check the pipes and hoses for blockages / cracks etc... sure if you have to replace it then having taken it off once the second time will be a breeze.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 82 ✭✭Maxed-irl


    Wll even before buying the new one, take the old one off, check the pipes and hoses for blockages / cracks etc... sure if you have to replace it then having taken it off once the second time will be a breeze.

    Might give it a go at the weekend. It's in an awkward spot on the 1.8 petrol so I take it the 1.8 flex should be in the same place


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,468 ✭✭✭jetfiremuck


    Change oil to 15/40w if it's diesel and 20/50 if petrol. Reduced oil burn and oil leaks on my engines. Repair at this age not cost effective. Parts and labour alone


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,468 ✭✭✭jetfiremuck


    Do not put kerosene etc into the engine. If it it is a sludge engine the kerosene will knock deposits off...into oil pan then oil pickup screen blocked. Then you're into pulling sump etc etc etc


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 82 ✭✭Maxed-irl


    Change oil to 15/40w if it's diesel and 20/50 if petrol. Reduced oil burn and oil leaks on my engines. Repair at this age not cost effective. Parts and labour alone

    Repair is way too much sure I paid less for the car


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