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I f*cked up

  • 17-03-2019 9:09pm
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,292 ✭✭✭


    Tried to take out a spark plug to see if it needec changing


    Had the wrong socket, was murder to remove this from the hole, tried to put something in beside it, shattered the plug.


    Bit of the ceramic coating of the plug got caught in the spark plug thread and damaged the thread when i tried to put the plug back in. I did think of it, spent ages cleaning it but twasnt enough.




    This will be fun and costly to fix

    Only saving grace is I think the head might have had to come off sooner or later anyway, getting a bit of mayonnaise in oil, bit of rust on one of the other plugs and it started on 3 cylinders not too long ago


Comments

  • Closed Accounts Posts: 594 ✭✭✭Force Carrier


    So the damaged plug won't screw in now?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,292 ✭✭✭Ubbquittious


    So the damaged plug won't screw in now?


    It will go in but I can keep turning it forever i'd say. Even when its in it will only run on 3 cylinders now. Same thing If i try one of the other plugs


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,290 ✭✭✭dar_cool


    Don't panic, plenty of solutions to this issue without removing the head. Could get the proper size tap and run it down to repair the threads. Only problem is you will get small bits of metal down in on top of the pistons which is what you don't want so could put something inside the hole to stop the metal getting into the engine. I've done this on a hedge trimmer and used grease on the tap, raised the piston right up manually and put a cloth down into the bore to stop filings going down into engine


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,292 ✭✭✭Ubbquittious


    dar_cool wrote: »
    Don't panic, plenty of solutions to this issue without removing the head. Could get the proper size tap and run it down to repair the threads. Only problem is you will get small bits of metal down in on top of the pistons which is what you don't want so could put something inside the hole to stop the metal getting into the engine. I've done this on a hedge trimmer and used grease on the tap, raised the piston right up manually and put a cloth down into the bore to stop filings going down into engine


    I can probably try the tap. Might even have one in the archives but the boat might have sailed because there are some tiny bits of ceramic in the cylinder now despite me trying my darndest to prevent them from going in


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,795 ✭✭✭Isambard


    why are you trying to put a damaged plug back in? bin it


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,290 ✭✭✭dar_cool


    If you have some sort of vacuum you could put it down and try suck them out. Like an oil extractor with a small hose on it. They will only have gone down on top of the piston


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,017 ✭✭✭Four Phucs Ache


    Re thread the hole and use a shirt button sized neodim magnet to pick up the swarf?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,292 ✭✭✭Ubbquittious


    dar_cool wrote: »
    If you have some sort of vacuum you could put it down and try suck them out. Like an oil extractor with a small hose on it. They will only have gone down on top of the piston


    Normal hoover and a plastic tube maybe. Will give it a go


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 416 ✭✭w211


    Did I understand right, you used the standard socket without the rubber protection? These days are the magnetic sockets too and there may not the rubber at all. If you start by angle, off it goes.

    Some engines are designed such a stupid way, there is not straight access. Only couple of degrees angle and need the specialty tool. If you do not know that, this is the result.

    Another lesson from W211. If you install the spark plug, never use the force. If the plug does not start or goes too hard, STOP!!! It must goes to the bottom without any resistance. The engine must be cold (only the next morning are good enough).


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 14,907 ✭✭✭✭CJhaughey


    I use a piece of rubber hose that will grip the insulator of the sparkplug.
    Jam the plug in the hose and feed it in, then turn the hose to wind the plug in, if the plug won't wind in something is wrong.
    The plug will spin in the hose and not allow you to bugger the threads, but will provide enough grip that the plug can be wound in all the way until it needs to be tightened.
    Hose is also very flexible and will allow you to use strange angles which can be necessary with some engines.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,522 ✭✭✭martyc5674


    Make up an attachment for your hoover that will fit through the hole in the head. Run a tap into it ... hoover the crap out and you’ll likely be fine.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,401 ✭✭✭DublinDilbert


    Clean it out , Hoover if needs be. go anti clockwise with the new plug till ya feel the ends of the threads pass. Go another turn anti clockwise till it happens again, then go clockwise.

    As the poster above says you can push some hose over the plug.

    If the broken plug screwed out you should be ok. Only way to damage the threads is by cross threading.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,668 ✭✭✭eringobragh


    CJhaughey wrote: »
    I use a piece of rubber hose that will grip the insulator of the sparkplug.
    Jam the plug in the hose and feed it in, then turn the hose to wind the plug in, if the plug won't wind in something is wrong.
    The plug will spin in the hose and not allow you to bugger the threads, but will provide enough grip that the plug can be wound in all the way until it needs to be tightened.
    Hose is also very flexible and will allow you to use strange angles which can be necessary with some engines.

    ^ THIS! saw this in Haynes manual and followed the method over the last 10 years DIY servicing - have a piece of garden hose in the toolbox for this purpose


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,749 ✭✭✭corks finest


    I can probably try the tap. Might even have one in the archives but the boat might have sailed because there are some tiny bits of ceramic in the cylinder now despite me trying my darndest to prevent them from going in


    Hoover


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,468 ✭✭✭jetfiremuck


    Provably need to helicoil the spark plug hole. The plug will get blown out when running. Job can be done in situ. Do it right once.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 946 ✭✭✭Phileas Frog


    w211 wrote: »
    Did I understand right, you used the standard socket without the rubber protection? These days are the magnetic sockets too and there may not the rubber at all. If you start by angle, off it goes.

    Some engines are designed such a stupid way, there is not straight access. Only couple of degrees angle and need the specialty tool. If you do not know that, this is the result.

    Another lesson from W211. If you install the spark plug, never use the force. If the plug does not start or goes too hard, STOP!!! It must goes to the bottom without any resistance. The engine must be cold (only the next morning are good enough).

    Inspiring as always


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 416 ✭✭w211


    Inspiring as always
    My pleasure


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,749 ✭✭✭corks finest


    We all **** up now and then


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 416 ✭✭w211


    We all **** up now and then
    Sh*t happens every day


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,292 ✭✭✭Ubbquittious


    Got it going. Bought some tool to 'clean' the thread but it did feck all, only to reassure me that the thread probably wasnt too badly damaged since it went the whole way down without bother. Yet the plug still wouldn't.

    Got a proper M14x1.25 tap and that worked. Took a while to do it taking it out and re-greasing. Hoovered the bottom of the cylinder too
    Thx everyone


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