2008 Mondeo engine malfunction

wpd

I have a 2 litre 2008 petrol Mondeo that drives fine 99 per cent of the time but every now and then it gives an engine malfunction and goes into limp mode. when you switch it off and restart it then all fine. I have tried connecting diagnostic however there are no codes on it all.
might happen once every three weeks and happens when driving along so not a sitting in traffic issue
any suggestions greatly appreciated

Atlantic Dawn

Coil pack perhaps, hard to diagnose exactly without an error code.

w211

wpd wrote: »

I have a 2 litre 2008 petrol Mondeo that drives fine 99 per cent of the time but every now and then it gives an engine malfunction and goes into limp mode. when you switch it off and restart it then all fine. I have tried connecting diagnostic however there are no codes on it all.
might happen once every three weeks and happens when driving along so not a sitting in traffic issue
any suggestions greatly appreciated

Honestly this is impossible mission. It can be anything starting from bad wiring to bad sensors. May be only good advice are to check the all ground wire connection or wiring harness. These days they using stupid plastic brackets and if any be loosen it can damage the wires. If you can not find anything weird, too bad you chacing the ghost.

wpd

thanks i don't have experience of coil packs going
would there be a way to test them or would i have to replace them all
should i replace the spark plugs at same time?

w211

wpd wrote: »

thanks i don't have experience of coil packs going
would there be a way to test them or would i have to replace them all
should i replace the spark plugs at same time?

When you last time changed the spark plugs? You can check the spark plug cap size and overall condition. If you do not have a misfire then ignition side should be good. These days platinum or iridium spark plugs last very long time.

wpd

I have the car about 18 months but havent changed spark plugs in that time

car drove to work fine again this morning

TheBoyConor

You could test the coils with a multimeter.

the HT and LT sides of the coils have a specific resistance range. If the resistance is higher or lower than the given range in the specification for the component that means the coil windings are knackered. Low = shorting. High = breaking up/corrosion.

You could also examine and test the plug leads if this engine has leads.

However, I would've thought this would throw up a misfire error code.

I would suggest buying a bluetooth EOBD scanner and an app such as TorquePro or similar. Leave it plugged in all the time and let it log everthing EOBD related. That might get you some more info. As far as I know with those apps, you can buy add-ons for manufacturer specific codes. But the EOBD should cover everything engine related.

Is there any particular time in the drive cycle when the fault manifests? Cold engine/hot engine? Rough roads? Any other observations? Or is it just a purely random event?

wpd

just notice that the oil is overfilled after a garage oil change could this be the cause?

w211

wpd wrote: »

just notice that the oil is overfilled after a garage oil change could this be the cause?

The oil overfilling are the serious problem but it it can not cause your described problem. If you have a receipt and any oil leak, you have a rights to get a free repair. Too much oil can damage all seals.



I always recommend to do the oil change DIY. Buy the 50eur vacuum tool and you can to do it yourself. No messy jobs and you know 100% the job are done correctly. The most important, you know you got the pure oil not recycled one.


EDIT: Now lidl selling the 12V oil replacing pumps. Dirt cheap

If you can not do do yourself and still want to use the garage, then avoid the garage who does not to do the oil change by warm engine. There is no any reason to wait 4 hours to cool oil down. The cold oil does not flow so well as warm. It is not dangerous to work near by hot engine if they know what to do.

wpd

thanks for your comments and suggestions I will bring and get oil sorted tomorrow
happened again on way home however I got the codes this time before I turned off

they were P0605 and P2110

again any help greatly appreciated

Thinking I may just to clean throttle body????

w211

wpd wrote: »

thanks for your comments and suggestions I will bring and get oil sorted tomorrow
happened again on way home however I got the codes this time before I turned off

they were P0605 and P2110

again any help greatly appreciated

Thinking I may just to clean throttle body????

Sorry, one problem leads to other and now we have a big mess.

At least you know direction where are the ghost. The cleaning is not bad idea but I think the error are somewhere else. Internal memory error and throttle actuator. This is not so simple as most of the mechanics thinks. The internal memory error can caused by anything else and it can triggers the error on actuator/sensor. Still the simplest way to do something is to check the connectors and wire harness. The connectors must be shiny/clear as possible, no any kind of oxidation or water inside. Wire harness must be well protected. If somebody already fixed the wire harness, open the tape and check the wires condition. The ghost errors are the hardest one. You see so much trouble and nobody does not want to pay for these hours...

Cee-Jay-Cee

wpd wrote: »

thanks for your comments and suggestions I will bring and get oil sorted tomorrow
happened again on way home however I got the codes this time before I turned off

they were P0605 and P2110

again any help greatly appreciated

Thinking I may just to clean throttle body????

Its not the actual throttle body that's causing the fault but the throttle actuator controller and so you may need to replace the actuator and/or related sensor.

TheBoyConor

A good start for chasing a gost like this is go into the engine bay and disconnect every connector you can find. Look at the condition of the contacts, giving a clean wherever any corrosion is evident. give them a shot of contact spray and firmly reconnect.

wpd

cleaned throttle body which was carboned and sticky but still got message

Realise now from Cee Jay message that issue may be sensor for this, where would this be and what would it look like?

Googling the 2 codes I see one is for the pcm which looks very expensive to fix
again thanks for all the help

I see new throttle bodys and mechanisms on ebay for about 50 euro could this solve the problem
or will I still be left with an ecm/pcm issue do you think

w211

Honestly, I did not find the 2008 ford mondeo 2l petrol the throttle position sensor on parts list, only entire unit. Sure, may be I check the wrong model. I can check from the right catalogue if I know the car vin number.

I like to check what type sensor are there. Yes load of analog sensors goes bad pretty quickly. The digital one should last almost forever.

wpd

I am starting to think the issue is ecu and that it is only limiting the rpm hence the throttle message

if it is the ecu don't think it will be worth repairing

w211

wpd wrote: »

I am starting to think the issue is ecu and that it is only limiting the rpm hence the throttle message

if it is the ecu don't think it will be worth repairing

I do not think so. Anything faulty connector, wire or sensor can cause the internal memory errors because the readings are over the limits or just noise for the ecu. Ecu replacement is not so easy, it needs to program the keys too.

wpd

thanks w211 for info

was going to Belfast yesterday and I had to turn back as it happened 4 times
brought it to a garage today and they hooked it up to a bosch diagnostic computer and it had no errors in memory

when it happens it is like it is running on 3 cylinders
going to try changing spark plugs to see if that helps

wpd

This is still happening on and off
left it in to a garage (not ford dealer) who scanned it and got codes P0605 and P2110

he said symptoms pointed to new ecu however he wasnt pushed on doing work and said there was no guarantee and
cost would be about €800.

What do i do know i was thinking of somewhere like mactronics in tallaght??
or try and find some money and trade it in
its the uncertainity of spending money with no guarantee it fixes issue
some people suggest it may be just a corroded wire
all suggestions welcome as to next step, thanks