Solution for sub floor insulation small area .?

RaulDublin

I need some tips from some construction experts on this forum.

We have a north facing utility room extension which has un insulated sub floor and as a result it gets really cold inspite of the walls being very well insulated .

The rest of the house is extremely well insulated downstairs with sub floor insulation but opening the door leading to the utility makes the kitchen corner feel like a fridge on a cold day.

But on a cold day the tiles read a temp of 12 degrees even with the thermostat on and the room never gets to 20/21 which is the temperature in the rest of the house.The doors are A rated and sealed with a small window which is double glazed as well and we can feel the draught which might be coming in from the 2 external floor vents into the sub floor and then the tiles .

The room concerned is around 2.3 m x 3 m .

Is there any way we can get this space insulated without ripping out all the tiles and the cabinets.

Any tips .? Is it possible to take out a half of the tiles and then push in the floor insulation boards or would it make the insulation unstable and not a snug as it should be ?
I've attached a picture of the room if that's of any help.

sydthebeat

Is the utility an annex onto the house??

If so, the envelope to volume area is much greater than the house, so opportunities for heat loss are greatly increased.... There could be much more problems than just the floor

Edit: just picked up that it IS an extension....

Do you know what level of insulation is in the walls and roof?

Calahonda52

OP: am confused as to whether we are looking at a concrete floor [ uninsulated subfloor] or a suspended timber floor [external floor vents?]

RaulDublin

Thanks sydthebeat
The internal walls have 100 mm of Insulated Plasterboard 103 mm as far as I remember.The roof is insulated with around 200 mm of fiber glass/ or earth wool . This would have been there from before and we haven't upgraded it .

sydthebeat

yeah youve a lot more problems that just the floor.

the whole wall between the utility and the house is still practically an external wall as it runs from inside to outside with insulation break.
The internal insulation on the walls is close to useless as the floor / wall junction is a HUGE thermal bridge, and the perimeter to floor area ratio is also very high. The jambs of the back door ope and and windows would also be very big thermal bridges, which would significantly reduce and insulation effect the internal drylining has. With that construction no doubt its draughty too.

is the roof a flat roof or pitched?

RaulDublin

sydthebeat wrote: »

yeah youve a lot more problems that just the floor.

the whole wall between the utility and the house is still practically an external wall as it runs from inside to outside with insulation break.
The internal insulation on the walls is close to useless as the floor / wall junction is a HUGE thermal bridge, and the perimeter to floor area ratio is also very high. The jambs of the back door ope and and windows would also be very big thermal bridges, which would significantly reduce and insulation effect the internal drylining has. With that construction no doubt its draughty too.

is the roof a flat roof or pitched?

Thanks.
So the floor need to be insulated like the rest of the house.. and the floor wall junction needs to be sealed as well when the insulation is laid.
Can this be done without talking out all the tiles and the units was my question as well..