VVTi Toyota Corolla, leaking oil at the back

magnethead

Hi THere,
I was wondering if anyone knows a cure for this, I'm getting sick of topping it up with oil...The oil looks to be coming out of the back, behind the casing where the timing chain would be? to the right of the manifold
I know I should have tried already, but would tightening nuts help this? Thanks in advance

dar_cool

Probably have to take the cover off and reseal it with sump silicone

blackbox

Could it be the timing chain tensioner? Common with vvti engine.

I have an MR2 vvti (you can see other side of the engine and access is easy). If so it just needs a new O-ring - cheap for a genuine Toyota one. There is technique for replacing it without removing chain or cover, but you must ensure it re-tensions properly. You will find tutorials on youtube.

rex-x

Is the oil dripping on the ground? That looks like a weep not a leak. If not dripping on the ground it's likely burning oil not leaking it

dooroy

I'd say that the engine is burning oil - these engines have a tendency to burn oil as they get older

magnethead

Thanks for the replies guys, I can't see the timing chain tensioner.. Had a look on google images and the normal oval part doesn't appear to be in the area you would expect.

I'll get a mirror in and check it to see if I can locate the exact spot it's coming from.

There's 300K on the engine, which I thought was brand new for a corolla.. There is no drip on the driveway, What do you mean by burning oil? wouldn't I see some black smoke in the exhaust...If it was burning oil, do you mean, this could all be leaking from the exhaust manifold at the back of the engine?

rex-x

magnethead wrote: »

Thanks for the replies guys, I can't see the timing chain tensioner.. Had a look on google images and the normal oval part doesn't appear to be in the area you would expect.

I'll get a mirror in and check it to see if I can locate the exact spot it's coming from.

There's 300K on the engine, which I thought was brand new for a corolla.. There is no drip on the driveway, What do you mean by burning oil? wouldn't I see some black smoke in the exhaust...If it was burning oil, do you mean, this could all be leaking from the exhaust manifold at the back of the engine?

Those Toyota are notorious for oil burning. You won't necessarily see it out the exhaust but if you have no drips then the leak is not your issue, the engine is just worn. How much oil is it using?

magnethead

It takes about 3 months to move from the top mark on the dipstick to the halfway mark...so about 2L every 3 months, would that be considered normal?

If it turned out to be the chain cover, Is there some metal mastic that would seal up the joint, I guess nothing would stand to to the heat cyle of an engine for long.

rex-x

magnethead wrote: »

It takes about 3 months to move from the top mark on the dipstick to the halfway mark...so about 2L every 3 months, would that be considered normal?

If it turned out to be the chain cover, Is there some metal mastic that would seal up the joint, I guess nothing would stand to to the heat cyle of an engine for long.

Top to halfway is about 250ml not 2l?

magnethead

Top to halfway is about 250ml not 2l?

haha really, I was just half-ing the amount I usually throw in during an oil change...So most of the oil sits below that mark.

Well just so I can sleep easy if nothing comes out of my investigation, Can I just forget about the oil, until the oil light comes on, and at that stage top up.....or is that thinking, asking for trouble?

Thanks

rex-x

magnethead wrote: »

haha really, I was just half-ing the amount I usually throw in during an oil change...So most of the oil sits below that mark.

Well just so I can sleep easy if nothing comes out of my investigation, Can I just forget about the oil, until the oil light comes on, and at that stage top up.....or is that thinking, asking for trouble?

Thanks

I'm afraid I don't understand what you are saying with the first half of your post but for the second bit if your car has an orange oil level warning light then it is ok to top up when it shows.

If you mean the red oil can then no as that signifies loss of oil pressure and even 30 seconds running with that on or flickering could ruin the engine irreparably.

Your engine is likely just quite worn internally which is not unusual for a Toyota of that mileage. The only fix is a complete rebuild but keep topping it up and it will likely keep motoring on

Toyotafanboi

I think min - max on a Toyota dipstick is 1000ml.

The picture you posted is just an oil sweat, not a leak. It's nothing to be worried out, specially on an engine with that mileage. I'd leave it alone, a negligible amount of oil over a very long period of time will give a sweat mark like that.

Those engines are fond of a drop of oil, so it's most likely your engine is consuming the oil, not leaking it. Again though on that engine, with that mileage, I'd just dip it every few weeks and top up as necessary, there could be another 200k in it yet

ronaneire

magnethead wrote: »

There's 300K on the engine, which I thought was brand new for a corolla..

300k miles or KM, either way it is high. It is using oil not losing.

magnethead wrote: »

Well just so I can sleep easy if nothing comes out of my investigation, Can I just forget about the oil, until the oil light comes on, and at that stage top up.....or is that thinking, asking for trouble?

Thanks

Why wait until the light comes on? The light is bit your oil level but oil pressure!

magnethead

Thanks rex-x , I checked the Manual and it's only a pressure light, red, so that plan to using that to warn me is out the window.

It's 300K Kilometers for a 2001 Jap Import Corolla, E12 look. 1.5 L engine.... THe deal was buy a Corolla and have a car for life! I feel like the contract has broken and not happy about it.
Toyotafanboi That's good info, I guess that oil quantity must vary with engine size, I put 3.5L into the car tonight to fill it back up...but let's say 500ml every 3 months, does that sound right for old age oil burning?

Here's a pic to the left, and under the exhaust manifold..Is that still a burning oil characteristic, and not a valve gasket gone??
I got a cheap €20 endocope off ebay, and could make a video around the block showing all areas, would that be worth it ??



I got motivated from this thread, so went out this evening and replaced the Oil+Filter... noticed some other things while I was at it

Starter motor has a ripped boot and corossion was starting, so I put some di-electric grease on it and tie wrapped it up, I'm not feeling the love anymore as the engines burning oil, In the past I might have gone to the dealer and bought new boots, It's second class service from this point on!!




and then the Petrol cover was starting to come loose, one hinge had broken free, and it was hanging from the top hinge, with a split half way up on that, so I hit it with the welder, back in busniess now , I was half expecting to die, welding so close to the tank filler

magnethead

Still haven't located the timing Chain tensioner, but I'll get there eventually

CJhaughey

That amount of oil is nothing to be worried about, its fairly normal for most petrol engines of that size.
Looking at that starter feed wire I would be inclined to take it off sand the rust away to bare metal and then cover it with dieletric grease, most current is carried on the outside of the metal.
It will pay dividends over time, small jobs stop bigger things happening, lack of current can cause solenoids to burn and stop working.

kermitpwee

Are you well in the head?? Its a 18 yr old car with high miles, how long have you had it?

I had carina e's that did 300k miles that used oil, its not a big thing once its not excessive.

What other 2001 cars do you see on the road from other Makes?

Toyotafanboi

I think you are reading way too much into this.

Are you checking the dipstick before and after topping up? 3.5l is an insane "top up" amount and could actually be the reason for those oil sweats you are seeing, if you are filling beyond the max mark on the dipstick.

Check the dipstick, if it's over full, get it drained back to full. If it's under, top it up in 250ml increments until it's at the full mark. The drive and stop thinking about it, drive for 1000kms and check the dipstick again, top up in 250ml increments again, if it has used less than 1000mls then you have 100% nothing to worry about, your consumption is acceptable.

You could clean those sweat marks off with brake cleaner and I'll bet you could do another 50k kms and they won't even be back as bad as they are now.

Toyotafanboi

Also now that you mention that it's the 1.5 engine (which we should have got from the pics :pac:), that wasn't affected by the whole oil burning issue.

That was on the "ZZ" engines, 1zz, 3zz, 4zz. The 1.5 is an "NZ" engine 1NZFE I think and wasn't known for this.

kermitpwee

Toyotafanboi wrote: »

Also now that you mention that it's the 1.5 engine (which we should have got from the pics :pac:), that wasn't affected by the whole oil burning issue.

That was on the "ZZ" engines, 1zz, 3zz, 4zz. The 1.5 is an "NZ" engine 1NZFE I think and wasn't known for this.

Those 1nzfe are bulletproof

magnethead

I bought the car new and expected it to last forever(I'm not a fan of cars and even less a fan of spending money on them)
Toyotafanboi THe 3.5L was a new fill, I dropped the oil out of it the other night.
It wasn't burning oil before this so I just thought it might be something like a seal gone. and the wet looking patch at the back of the engine was definitely new.

I'll monitor it for the next few K and see how it goes.

Thanks for all your inputs, I'll try to stop being pedantic about it LOL

Now that I know what Engine I have (Thanks Toyotafanboi) . I did some googling
http://mywikimotors.com/toyota-1nz/


Very interesting ....I suffered from point 4 ....I hope I never get the knocking noise....
Is point number 1 there a big job for a mechanic?

Toyota 1NZ common problems
1. High oil consumption. After running more than 100,000 miles (150,000 km) of mileage, 1NZ engines can start excessively consuming oil. If that happens, you need to replace valve stem seals and piston rings.
2. 1NZ knocking noise. It is also typical of the 1ZZ motor. If any, your timing chain has been strained. That is common with engines running more than 100,000 – 150,000 miles (150,000 – 200,000 km) of mileage. In order to handle the problem, you must get a new timing chain. One also should inspect the timing chain tensioner.
3. Rugh idling. If any, the problem can be solved by cleaning a throttle body unit and idle control valve.
4. Engine whistle. It is induced by a worn-out 1NZ alternator belt. You should check it.
5. The 1NZ’s vibration. You should check engine mounts, especially the anterior one. If everything is alright, clean injectors and replace the fuel filter. That will help to eliminate vibrations.
Apart from the above-mentioned things, the oil pressure switch is frequently disarranged, and the rear crankshaft oil seal leaks time after time. The cylinder block can’t be repaired. So, after running 150,000 miles (200,000 km), you will probably have to purchase a new 1NZFE engine.
Protecting yourself from all these troubles is easy as a piece of cake. You should use a high quality engine oil suggested by a manufacturer and do a regular maintenance of your 1NZ.

kermitpwee

magnethead wrote: »

I bought the car new and expected it to last forever(I'm not a fan of cars and even less a fan of spending money on them)
Toyotafanboi THe 3.5L was a new fill, I dropped the oil out of it the other night.
It wasn't burning oil before this so I just thought it might be something like a seal gone. and the wet looking patch at the back of the engine was definitely new.

I'll monitor it for the next few K and see how it goes.

Thanks for all your inputs, I'll try to stop being pedantic about it LOL

Now that I know what Engine I have (Thanks Toyotafanboi) . I did some googling
http://mywikimotors.com/toyota-1nz/


Very interesting ....I suffered from point 4 ....I hope I never get the knocking noise....
Is point number 1 there a big job for a mechanic?

Toyota 1NZ common problems
1. High oil consumption. After running more than 100,000 miles (150,000 km) of mileage, 1NZ engines can start excessively consuming oil. If that happens, you need to replace valve stem seals and piston rings.
2. 1NZ knocking noise. It is also typical of the 1ZZ motor. If any, your timing chain has been strained. That is common with engines running more than 100,000 – 150,000 miles (150,000 – 200,000 km) of mileage. In order to handle the problem, you must get a new timing chain. One also should inspect the timing chain tensioner.
3. Rugh idling. If any, the problem can be solved by cleaning a throttle body unit and idle control valve.
4. Engine whistle. It is induced by a worn-out 1NZ alternator belt. You should check it.
5. The 1NZ’s vibration. You should check engine mounts, especially the anterior one. If everything is alright, clean injectors and replace the fuel filter. That will help to eliminate vibrations.
Apart from the above-mentioned things, the oil pressure switch is frequently disarranged, and the rear crankshaft oil seal leaks time after time. The cylinder block can’t be repaired. So, after running 150,000 miles (200,000 km), you will probably have to purchase a new 1NZFE engine.
Protecting yourself from all these troubles is easy as a piece of cake. You should use a high quality engine oil suggested by a manufacturer and do a regular maintenance of your 1NZ.

If you dont mind me asking, how did you buy it new if its a Jap Import?

magnethead

You're correct, it was 2 years old...actually, Felt like a new one, because the same body wasn't out here(European model) until 2003.

w211

Replace the valve cover seal. Do not use just the silicon like dar suggested. It is an option if you rushing to sell the car. Otherwise buy the proper seal kit