Ts 110 SLE problem

Volkswagen20

My ts 110 sle has a problem. Some days it will work perfect other days it won’t move. I thought it was the red forward reverse lever so changed that it worked grand for a day then today it won’t go into forward or reverse , did anyone else experience this or know what it could be ? I know it can be a number of different things but someone might just know which one is most likely thanks.

mad-for-tar

Difficult to know exactly without further info. Have you any fault codes showing on the dash or any lights flashing or beeping etc., when it won’t do what you want? Can you get it to move without use of the clutch pedal or have you same problem when shuttling as you have when trying to drive it with the clutch pedal?
If it’s more of a problem from trying to engage/change direction using clutch pedal, it’s possibly the bottom of clutch switch that could be causing the issue, it may need adjustment to get it into the correct position. (Clutch pedal has a position potentiometer on it as well as a switch at the bottom of travel). This switch usually setup to change state at around 8-12% of upward travel of the clutch pedal from the potentiometer.
Other thing it might need if it hasn’t been done in a while or never, is to calibrate the transmission, I have always found if there’s an issue somewhere, it either cures it or highlights it during the calibration process and you can work from there to find the root of the fault.
Calibrations can be done by means of shortcut to get into cal mode or by the on board diagnostics menu and clutch pedal setup will be by on board diagnostics only.
Hope it helps.

poor farmer

When you say it won't move , are any of the other hydraulic functions working.
I had similar problem with a ts. It wouldn't move . It was like the hydraulic pump wasn't being triggered to start pumping.
Ended up having to replace the pump. Not cheap but it solved the problem.

farisfat

More info needed,if theirs no faults showing and you've gone through all the looms,its probably the brain.

Volkswagen20

farisfat wrote: »

More info needed,if theirs no faults showing and you've gone through all the looms,its probably the brain.

E48 was showing up

Suckler

Clutch switch?

https://howtomendit.com/answers.php?id=348644

The Nutty M

E48 seems to be clutch low switch from a bit of a Google. I don't know the gearbox in the NH but it sounds more like an electronic problem than mechanical. And it doesn't sound like solenoids either as you'd always expect only forward or reverse to stop at one time,not the both.

mad-for-tar

Volkswagen20 wrote: »

E48 was showing up

The Nutty M wrote: »

E48 seems to be clutch low switch from a bit of a Google. I don't know the gearbox in the NH but it sounds more like an electronic problem than mechanical.

Clutch disconnect switch short circuit, misadjusted or always closed.

I'd say it has slid along it's grooves and it's changing state either too late or not at all when clutch pedal is down. Do you hear a click when clutch pedal is pressed to the floor?

Remove LH dash panel cover next to the clutch pedal. You'll see the switch laying flat with a 4 wire connector on it, tip of it facing the bulkhead. As you press down the clutch pedal, you'll see the top of it coming backwards until it contacts the switch and presses it. It's likely it has slid back too far over time or the screws holding it have come loose.

Correct setup needs the use of the on board diagnostics, using the black connector next to the fuse box behind the right hand dash cover. Basically, this switch needs to change state or click when the clutch pedal travel is between 8% and 14% of its upwards travel from the floor.

What you can do is a trial and error method as a short term fix and simply loosen the screws, push the switch forward 2mm or 3mm and test it again.
You could also put a multimeter into the potentiometer feedback signal wire (reads anywhere from 0.5v to 4.5v approximately in its full range of travel) and then work out around 10%-12% position of the working range of voltage and set the switch to click at that point of voltage on the potentiometer.
Could also try measuring the full range of travel of the pedal with a measuring tape and work out where 10%-12% of upwards travel is and set the switch to click or change state right at that point.
If you get E37 or E47 during any of these procedures, you've probably gone too far with the adjustment.

Hope it helps.