Fencing.Dairy farm

ozil10

Hello folks
Happy New year
I am based in Cork
I have put in new roadways. Just over 2.5kms so plenty of fencing to be done
Have the farm mapped for new paddocks.water troughs etc
Just few questions
Any other companies besides farm relief offering fencing services

Best type of posts to use

Is putting a handle between each post for easy access abit excessive

Any articles or threads worth reading
Cheers

GrasstoMilk

ozil10 wrote: »

Hello folks
Happy New year
I am based in Cork
I have put in new roadways. Just over 2.5kms so plenty of fencing to be done
Have the farm mapped for new paddocks.water troughs etc
Just few questions
Any other companies besides farm relief offering fencing services

Best type of posts to use

Is putting a handle between each post for easy access abit excessive

Any articles or threads worth reading
Cheers

Yeah it would be excesive alright. 3-4 gaps per paddock would be loads. It's plenty here any way.
Does anyone in your discussion group know of anyone fencing. Usually someone around locall.
Clipex seems to be a good job on straight runs but expensive. Hard to find good stakes these days.

Timmaay

ozil10 wrote: »

Hello folks
Happy New year
I am based in Cork
I have put in new roadways. Just over 2.5kms so plenty of fencing to be done
Have the farm mapped for new paddocks.water troughs etc
Just few questions
Any other companies besides farm relief offering fencing services

Best type of posts to use

Is putting a handle between each post for easy access abit excessive

Any articles or threads worth reading
Cheers

Anyone who has put in the steel clip ex fencing is raving that it's the best thing since sliced bread, slightly more expensive materials than normal timber stakes, but alot easier and faster to install, and it will apparently well outlast most timber stakes. It's actually one thing I always find with timber fencing, grand with big long straight runs, strain each side, but when you have loads of gaps, and turns etc it absolutely eats up strainers, eggs etc.

In terms of gaps, you absolutely need more than one gap into every paddock, on every single stake is probably slightly overkill, I'd say 4 per paddock is enough, however handles are cheap and if you had a gap on each stake it still wouldn't be a waste. Make sure you put bungee cord on all the gaps also, alot better than wire. Only minor thing about bungee is don't put it too tight, and don't get the absolute cheap and cheerful stuff, if you overstretch it you can snap the steel wires in it.

Mooooo

A lad in with yourself and a post driver would save a bit. What length of time are clipped out?

Odelay

Don’t know if I’d put all my eggs in one basket with clipex. I like the stuff but don’t know who it will deal with damp or peaty soils.
I’d also be concerned that the galvanized will scrape off when driving in? If so they will rot quickly.
I’ve only seen recent clipex installations, would love to see what they look like after 10 years in Irish soils.

visatorro

Isn't there a lad In clare i think making posts from recycled plastic? Any see them or hear a price.

Keep Sluicing

How do fencing contractors charge. Is it by the meter for a fence type or what

freedominacup

Keep Sluicing wrote: »

How do fencing contractors charge. Is it by the meter for a fence type or what

By the metre after looking at the job.

Buford T. Justice XIX

freedominacup wrote: »

By the metre after looking at the job.

Yeah, straight, level jobs are fairly inexpensive but once you have a bit of a curve or heights and hollows, it starts to mount up.

Saying that though, done properly it will last for decades.

whelan2

Buford T. Justice V wrote: »

Yeah, straight, level jobs are fairly inexpensive but once you have a bit of a curve or heights and hollows, it starts to mount up.

Saying that though, done properly it will last for decades.

That said some of the posts are very poor quality in the last few years

pms7

The Clipex lad has a handheld post driver, about size of chainsaw, just vibrates/hammers post down, super job, especially if fencing when ground too soft for tractor. Unless you are really sure of timber quality, hard to see galv rotting fast.

Dakota Dan

ozil10 wrote: »

Hello folks
Happy New year
I am based in Cork
I have put in new roadways. Just over 2.5kms so plenty of fencing to be done
Have the farm mapped for new paddocks.water troughs etc
Just few questions
Any other companies besides farm relief offering fencing services

Best type of posts to use

Is putting a handle between each post for easy access abit excessive

Any articles or threads worth reading
Cheers

Are you going milking many.

whelan2

Dakota Dan wrote: »

Are you going milking many.

Them all...

ozil10

Paddocks will be set up for 140 cows

Is there any posts people would recommend
some creosote posts outlast others from what I hear

Mooooo

Got the treated posts from frs. Ones I pushed in with the loader where fine any I hit with the sledge split apart. Thought they were well treated on the outside but not so sure after seeing the splitting and the dept of the creosote. How far in would it go normally? Some back in the day would soak the part of the post going underground in waste oil but probably not advisable these days

Buford T. Justice XIX

whelan2 wrote: »

That said some of the posts are very poor quality in the last few years

I put up a bit of sheep fencing around the weakest parts of the bounds ditches this year and there was something like a euro more per stake to take the creosoted posts over the normal treated posts but you're right about starting off with good posts first day. Creosoting poor posts seems like a pure waste of time and money?

Hagimalone

slightly off topic, seen frs lads at ploughing this year, they made a holder out of fencing wire for the gate handle when being left open, anyone see or know how to make one.

Pod123

Have a gap entrance to the front and back of the paddock off the road way. With the gap at the back have a handle at both ends.
the gap at the back can be used to let cows in and it will work in reverse if you want to guide cattle out but want them to move down the road way.
The wire between these two gaps strain it with an on line wire strainer so that row of wire can be dropped easily and strained after once machinery are finished.
Put a gap at the end of each row dividing the paddocks helps for hedge cutting and moving cattle.
Use 12 gauge high tensile wire once you get used to it it’s the best.
Mark your paddocks on a sheet of paper then come back ina day or two and make changes once your certain then go out into the field and fence.
Put numbers on each paddock and have the same in the dairy that way paddock no 7 is known as paddock 7.

Castlekeeper

Good posts will last 25-30 years, average ones 5-10. A fathet son yeam in Kildorrery and Willie O'Sullivan in Rathkeale do the best I know of.
Given the work of replacing them it makes the price of good ones almost irrelevant.

Too many handles/ connections will effect the current, 4- paddock should be loads. As posted earlier double gate handles at back and bungy cord or even white wire for the gaps, high tensile is forever kinking and you'll go through a lot more handles with it too.

It's an easy and enjoyable job with a small bit of help and the loan of a post driver.
We just got a loan McCarthy Cup here in Limerick which is great in our soft ground, I think we'll keep it for another year

Pod123

Buy or make a Jenny for unrolling the wire. Pull the wire from the outside usually beside the tag on the roll.

Use the proper insulating tube for fencing. Buy it in the roll.
In a straight run drive the two strainers then strain the wire. Next drive the intermediate posts. Then count how intermediate posts are on the line. Eg if there is 15 posts using the width of your palm count out the lenght for the 15. Put wire through the full length of tube and strain. Walk back along and cut your tube for the post using a rose pruner and staple.
It is easier the push the lenght then trying to push the 15 short single pieces.
On a slight bend in the line make sure the wire is on the right side of post and not putting pressure on the staple.

When driving the staple in make sure the two ends are not in line as this reduces cracking the post.
Finally after what I have seen while fencing do not forget about the fencer.
Do not use any copper wire for the feed out or the earthing. Use proper insulated galvanise wire and earthed properly that your not loosing current to the earth by a poor earth.
Finally leave your fencer on all year so it can burn the growth as it starts to grow against the fence line in spring.
Sorry for long reply but when it’s done right it it will save so much work and worth it.

trg

Would anyone have an idea of a rough cost for 2,500 metres of 2 strand barb wire?

carrollsno1

If i had that ahead of me and time to do it id get a lad with a post driver to drive strainer posts and thr posts at the gaps and just use a sledge to drive star pickets between them, there all the go out this side of the world a small lump hammer could drive them even in the dry here at times. They might be similar to clipex but ive never seen them. These use a plastic insulator to clip in live wire and the holes can be used to put dead wire. The farmer in Nz reckoned tgey were a few dollars cheaper than timber posts and lasted a lot longer too


https://www.bunnings.com.au/our-range/garden/landscaping/wire-fencing-posts/steel

Pod123

trg wrote: »

Would anyone have an idea of a rough cost for 2,500 metres of 2 strand barb wire?

For every 100mts you will need a strainer
And every 5 mts an intermediate post. This will vary on ground type and straightness of line.
I used to drive about 6 straining posts or 35 to 40 intermediate posts again on ground type an hour.
Barb wire goes up quick as you have no egg insulator or tubing to cut which cut down on the walking and labour!!
I would work out how much of each is needed strainers,intermediate posts and wire.
In some cases materials and labour would be half and half again ground will vary even in the same job.
For what it’s worth I would try to go electric and use a battery fencer but not always practical due to terrain and scrub.

trg

trg wrote: »

Would anyone have an idea of a rough cost for 2,500 metres of 2 strand barb wire?

Anyone with a rough idea?

coolshannagh28

trg wrote: »

Anyone with a rough idea?

Materials €3500 labour slightly more .