Trying to isolate leaking radiator until I get a new one, HELP!

J0hnick

Hi,

I noticed one of the radiators in my house was leaking yesterday, it’s coming from the middle so looks like a hole from rust. I tried turning it off and even used a screw driver and a plyers to take the cap off at the other end and turned it clockwise to turn that off (a few videos on YouTube said to do this). I put a bunch of towels underneath it last night, but they were all soaked this morning and it’s still dripping.

I’m not going to be able to find someone to replace it today and I have people coming at the weekend, this happened before a few years ago and with the one in my bathroom all I did was turn it off until I got it replaced, why isn’t it working this time ?

Help would really be appreciated, I’m going through towels faster then I can dry them.

Thanks in advance

jmBuildExt

put up a pic of the valves at either end and where the hole is is rad up stairs or down?

How big is the hole, Im being creative here....But you could try putting something in the hole or over it, and using a clamp to keep it jammed up.
If not a runner....
Turning it off at both ends should sort it (you will have to wait til the water in the rad drains to the level of the hole), but if the valve is knackered water will still get in.

In that case you will have to drain the whole system - and that will then depend on whether you have open/closed system (header tank in the attic or not)

Open: tie up ballcock on tank in the attic and find a rad on the lower floor that has a let off valve, attach a hose to it and let the water out into the garden - not up into a sink because it may not be able to travel back up the hose.

Closed: Find the valve that lets water into the system, make sure it is off, and drain the water as described above.

PS: Im not a plumber someone may have better suggestions.

J0hnick

jmBuildExt wrote: »

put up a pic of the valves at either end and where the hole is is rad up stairs or down?

How big is the hole, Im being creative here....But you could try putting something in the hole or over it, and using a clamp to keep it jammed up.
If not a runner....
Turning it off at both ends should sort it (you will have to wait til the water in the rad drains to the level of the hole), but if the valve is knackered water will still get in.

In that case you will have to drain the whole system - and that will then depend on whether you have open/closed system (header tank in the attic or not)

Open: tie up ballcock on tank in the attic and find a rad on the lower floor that has a let off valve, attach a hose to it and let the water out into the garden - not up into a sink because it may not be able to travel back up the hose.

Closed: Find the valve that lets water into the system, make sure it is off, and drain the water as described above.

PS: Im not a plumber someone may have better suggestions.

http://imgur.com/cTHRKLV

http://imgur.com/A9xfCDX

http://imgur.com/IHiZG3N

Rad is upstairs.

mad m

If the valves are closed either side, the rad should be isolated unless the valves are passing.

Crack open the half inch nuts beside both valves, put something under both to catch water as you loosen. Drain as much as possible out of rad first.

Once you think enough is out, fully open nuts. Lift rad off nuts and turn upside down as quickly as possible. Just have some old towels around to soak up any water

SemperFidelis

Make sure both valves are fully closed and also the bleed valve. If the bleed valve is open it will allow the water to drip out the bottom as air can get in.

quietsailor

mad m wrote: »

If the valves are closed either side, the rad should be isolated unless the valves are passing.

Crack open the half inch nuts beside both valves, put something under both to catch water as you loosen. Drain as much as possible out of rad first.

Once you think enough is out, fully open nuts. Lift rad off nuts and turn upside down as quickly as possible. Just have some old towels around to soak up any water

SemperFidelis wrote: »

Make sure both valves are fully closed and also the bleed valve. If the bleed valve is open it will allow the water to drip out the bottom as air can get in.

To add to what MadM aand SemperFedelis have written, once you get the rad off you can fit blanking nuts to the valves if they are passing. They are called Blank Caps or 372 1/2" INSTANTOR BLANK CAP & WASHER in the plumbing suppliers (Make sure you get washers with them!!!)




and you screw them onto the piece I've circled in your photo. They're cheap enough so if you don't know what size you want ask the counter for 2 of Half inch and two of three quarter inch.

whizbang

And plan for all new rads....

Seriously; if thats your second one rusted, you need a new plumber.