Oil drain nut stripped

StereoSound

Any idea how to open it? Tried spliner and regular sockets but it just won't grip it...

My friendly local car service center won't loosen it for me since they say they have to do the complete oil change if they open it. They won't use my own oil and filter either because they need to warranty the parts, so they say. The previous person who owned this car stripped the bloody nut. How do I get it off? Its a Hyundai Coupe.

Thanks

Effects

Could you pay for it this time and have them replace the nut?

Toyotafanboi

Vice grips? Force a smaller socket onto it? Cut a line through it and open with a flat head screwdriver?

StereoSound

Toyotafanboi wrote: »

Vice grips? Force a smaller socket onto it? Cut a line through it and open with a flat head screwdriver?

I'm thinking I'll buy a vice grips and see if that works..

Failing that I'll just get the oil changed by a garage and let them put a new nut on it. Pain paying €100 for an oil change I've been doing myself on cars for the past 15 years.

mickuhaha

It's a size 18 so a size 17 hammered onto it will pull it off. Did this when I lost the anti teft lock nut socket for the car.

Stanford

StereoSound wrote: »

I'm thinking I'll buy a vice grips and see if that works..

Failing that I'll just get the oil changed by a garage and let them put a new nut on it. Pain paying €100 fo an oil change I've been doing myself on cars for the past 15 years.

Make sure you have a replacement nut before you go mental on the seized nut

Del2005

Buy an oil suction pump. First time I used mine we took the sump nut out and not a drop of oil came out, have a good look at the filter for metal fragments.

Much less messy than draining oil while lying on the ground.

StereoSound

Del2005 wrote: »

Buy an oil suction pump. First time I used mine we took the sump nut out and not a drop of oil came out, have a good look at the filter for metal fragments.

Much less messy than draining oil while lying on the ground.

What about the sludge on the bottom of the sump? How much of that will get removed with a pump?

mickuhaha

You could drain it via the dip stick if you had a pump. Get you down the road a few more months.

StereoSound

What about this electric pump? Won't break the bank at that price if it works.

https://www.micksgarage.com/d/oil-and-fluid-extractors/products/2357280/oil-extractor-pump-12v

Stanford

At this stage €100 for the garage including oil, new filter, labour and new nut is starting to look cheap!

Del2005

StereoSound wrote: »

What about the sludge on the bottom of the sump? How much of that will get removed with a pump?

There was none when I pulled the bung. So unless you drop the sump every time you change your oil the sludge doesn't come our.

tcawley29

Something like this should make short work of it OP.

https://www.ebay.ie/itm/Bergen-11pc-Bolt-Extractors-Socket-Lock-Nut-Remover-Extractor-2581/152809009402?hash=item23942070fa:g:Zx4AAOSw0yxZtBAC

I did the same with a caliper bolt a year or two ago

Del2005

tcawley29 wrote: »

Something like this should make short work of it OP.

https://www.ebay.ie/itm/Bergen-11pc-Bolt-Extractors-Socket-Lock-Nut-Remover-Extractor-2581/152809009402?hash=item23942070fa:g:Zx4AAOSw0yxZtBAC

I did the same with a caliper bolt a year or two ago

Problem with this is the sump is soft so too much force and you'll have a bigger problem.

tcawley29

Del2005 wrote: »

Problem with this is the sump is soft so too much force and you'll have a bigger problem.

There shouldn't be any need to use force though.

When I put the right size extractor on the bolt with a few light taps of a hammer (i do mean light) it came off relatively easily.

Cerco

Del2005 wrote: »

Problem with this is the sump is soft so too much force and you'll have a bigger problem.

If the casing is soft then it might be damaged by the cross threaded bolt.
I would let the garage sort it out, then carry on yourself for the subsequent servicing. They would have the tools to remove and to retread etc. if necessary.

Del2005

tcawley29 wrote: »

There shouldn't be any need to use force though.

When I put the right size extractor on the bolt with a few light taps of a hammer (i do mean light) it came off relatively easily.

That's the issue. If someone doesn't know what they are doing they can do major damage, even tightening the sump nut can cause damage. A suction pump will remove all the risk for a small chance of some sludge being left behind and 4+ litres of fresh oil will dilute it out.

tcawley29

Del2005 wrote: »

That's the issue. If someone doesn't know what they are doing they can do major damage, even tightening the sump nut can cause damage. A suction pump will remove all the risk for a small chance of some sludge being left behind and 4+ litres of fresh oil will dilute it out.

Agreed with some people doing more harm than good alright but I suppose if they have a torque wrench for putting it back they should be good?

I just personally don't like the idea of any potential sludge but I'm just very critical like that.

Also you don't get the same fun of getting your hands dirty

colm_mcm

Try another garage who’ll use your oil?

100e for a Ferrari oil change is a bargain

Interslice

The next size down 12 point socket/ring spanner or an imperial size might do it.

If you can tap that on with a hammer then heat the area around the plug with a small gas torch and it should come off.

Tap the spanner with the hammer rather than pulling on it.

Del2005

tcawley29 wrote: »

Agreed with some people doing more harm than good alright but I suppose if they have a torque wrench for putting it back they should be good?

I just personally don't like the idea of any potential sludge but I'm just very critical like that.

Also you don't get the same fun of getting your hands dirty

I know I'm repeating myself but when I used the suction pump nothing came out of the sump when I pulled the plug, I have to jack my car up to change the filter so pulling the nut wasn't an issue. So if nothing came out of the hole in the sump after I sucked the oil out whatever sludge was left wouldn't have come out anyway, also with the pump you can move it around to get the residue.

How many home mechanics know to ask for another crush washer?

HakunaPatata

Interslice wrote: »

The next size down 12 point socket/ring spanner or an imperial size might do it.

If you can tap that on with a hammer then heat the area around the plug with a small gas torch and it should come off.

Tap the spanner with the hammer rather than pulling on it.

Exactly what I was gonna say. Heat with small torch (carefully) and then lightly hammer a socket of smaller size on. Was the only way I could get the upper strut mount nuts off my old mazda. Alternatively you can cut a small notch in the nut with a grinder and a couple of light taps with a chisel, she should pop right off leaving the threads (hopefully) intact. Second option is best left to someone with a bit of experience though. Bon voyage.

Doctors room ghost

If all else fails and there's one scrapped near you get the sump off it and put new gasket on it

cruizer101

Honestly for all the effort if the garage will do it for 100 I'd go with that. That includes oil and filter which is gonna cost you at least 50ish quid anyway.

Doctors room ghost

OP did you see the coupe on done deal.cork I think it's in.15 k he spent modding it according to the add and by the looks of it a dog took a chunk out of the front.its in modded section.cant miss it.ive been having nightmares since looking at it

firstlight

If your handy with a hammer and a small chisel,you can create a small edge on the nut with chisel to get it started,the obvious thing is dont hit the sump,if you can cover it with something
Works a treat for me,buy a new nut from hyundai then
Up to yourself
From my own opinion you should always drain oil through the sump
Have the oil up to temp first,will run out with a better flow

jeepcj

Del2005 wrote: »

Buy an oil suction pump. First time I used mine we took the sump nut out and not a drop of oil came out, have a good look at the filter for metal fragments.

Much less messy than draining oil while lying on the ground.

All depends on the design of the sump, On my navara it sucked all of it out, on my pajero, 2 litres were left. My suggestion is if you are going to suck it out measure what you take out to make sure you get the majority of it.

tcawley29

Del2005 wrote: »

I know I'm repeating myself but when I used the suction pump nothing came out of the sump when I pulled the plug, I have to jack my car up to change the filter so pulling the nut wasn't an issue. So if nothing came out of the hole in the sump after I sucked the oil out whatever sludge was left wouldn't have come out anyway, also with the pump you can move it around to get the residue.

How many home mechanics know to ask for another crush washer?

Is that not part of the reason to have the engine running for a while to heat the oil and allow easier drainage?

Funny enough I did know about the crush washer actually

StereoSound

I bought the electric pump as per my link. I'll still at a later stage replace the stripped sump nut though. I'm more curious about these oil extraction pumps to see how well they work. For €30 delivered and if it works OK I think it will be handy. Aren't high end garages doing oil changes this way these days? I'll have it in my hand tomorrow and I'll report back how well it works. I might make a video clip of it in action and post it here.

StereoSound

I pumped out my old oil this evening.... Worked great! I'll probably never bother undoing a drain nut again. I was very amused, It sucked out just over 3 litres before the hose ran dry. NICE! .Took about 5 minutes to complete the transfer into an old bucket. Fantastic stuff altogether! However the electric motor in it is a noisy little bugger. Still only have to use it twice or three times a year. €30 well spent I say.

jmreire

StereoSound wrote: »

What about the sludge on the bottom of the sump? How much of that will get removed with a pump?

If you change it and the filter often enough, the sludge wont be a problem....I use a suction pump for oil changes on my car, and every 3rd change, I will drain the sump via the drain plug. So far, never a problem.
If the sump stud is hexagon Like a nut ( or round with splined of hexagon centre) and its sticking out from the sump, then a vice grips will do the job. once it gets a good grip. A small stilson wrench will do it too. From what I can gather from your post, I'd say that its one of the above, so either the stilson or vice grips will get it off for you. However, if it's a flush or countersunk fitting, that will be another matter. In the past, I have had to m.i.g weld a larger nut on to the original to get it off.
( flush or countersunk type ) Luck with it.

Ten Pin

Lidl selling wrenches next week for PITA bolt heads.
The "multi purpose spanner" should work.
https://media.lidl-flyer.com/5bcb9ccc-90d2-11e8-ab94-005056ab0fb6/image_page-29_01.jpg

CJhaughey

Those pin type universal sockets aren't up to much, any reasonable torque applied through them will just twist the pins.
I know this is an oil drain plug but some of them are very tight.
Better to fit a drain valve, I had one of them on a Toyota I had before and it was a very handy way to drain oil.
http://www.quickvalve.co.uk/

Turbohymac

Well changing oil with a suction pump seems great and very fast but it won't remove the deposits at the bottom of the sump.. so definately get sump plug sorted and drain fully . Should be very easy once sump/ sump threads are not damaged.

tcawley29

CJhaughey wrote: »

Those pin type universal sockets aren't up to much, any reasonable torque applied through them will just twist the pins.
I know this is an oil drain plug but some of them are very tight.
Better to fit a drain valve, I had one of them on a Toyota I had before and it was a very handy way to drain oil.
http://www.quickvalve.co.uk/

Do you not run the risk using these where the valve may be worn eventually or its poor quality that if you hit a bump it will open and leak the oil everywhere?

Personally I think I'd be happier to stick with the sump nut.

jmreire

Once the stud is not countersunk into the sump,( or flush with the pan ) Get a small (9") stilson wrench on to it, that will do the trick. Just make sure that you have a new replacement stud ready ( correct one for that model inc. copper or steel washer )

Hotblack Desiato

cruizer101 wrote: »

Honestly for all the effort if the garage will do it for 100 I'd go with that. That includes oil and filter which is gonna cost you at least 50ish quid anyway.

I can guarantee that if they feck up the sump the cost won't be €100 anymore!

Wouldn't be a fan of suction oil changes - if it's your decision for your vehicle then fine, but as a shortcut from a dealer when you're paying the full rate for the job then no.

I did drop the sump on one of my bikes though once (80s vintage) it was notorious for clogging the pickup strainer on mineral oil or if gasket goo had been used. Mine was clean but it was little effort to do the job as the exhaust pipes running under the sump were being replaced anyway.

CJhaughey

tcawley29 wrote: »

Do you not run the risk using these where the valve may be worn eventually or its poor quality that if you hit a bump it will open and leak the oil everywhere?

Personally I think I'd be happier to stick with the sump nut.

I fitted one before and the valves are very high quality Japanese items, no risk of them opening easily, You have to lift the tab and then turn it 1/4 to open it. If you are paranoid or worried that something like road debris might open it there is a small metal spring clip that fits over the valve to prevent anything from pushing the tab up.
I'm a proponent of the keep it simple school and I had no concerns with this valve.
Its also factory approved by a lot of the Japanese factories, they cost a lot more than a sump plug so maybe thats why they don't come standard.
They are made by Fumoto in Japan

jeepcj

StereoSound wrote: »

I pumped out my old oil this evening.... Worked great! I'll probably never bother undoing a drain nut again. I was very amused, It sucked out just over 3 litres before the hose ran dry. NICE! .Took about 5 minutes to complete the transfer into an old bucket. Fantastic stuff altogether! However the electric motor in it is a noisy little bugger. Still only have to use it twice or three times a year. €30 well spent I say.

I would think there would be a lot more than 3 litres of oil in the engine

jmreire

jeepcj wrote: »

I would think there would be a lot more than 3 litres of oil in the engine

If you are using an extraction pump, then the car should be parked in such a way that the extraction tube is at the lowest point...needless to say, the hotter the oil, the better the flow. Normally, the oil is extracted via the dipstick, if the stick is at the front of the engine, car should be facing down hill, at the rear of the engine, car facing uphill. This is the best way to extract the maximum amount of oil.

StereoSound

jmreire wrote: »

If you are using an extraction pump, then the car should be parked in such a way that the extraction tube is at the lowest point...needless to say, the hotter the oil, the better the flow. Normally, the oil is extracted via the dipstick, if the stick is at the front of the engine, car should be facing down hill, at the rear of the engine, car facing uphill. This is the best way to extract the maximum amount of oil.

I did remove the tube and re inserted it again to get maybe another pint of oil out. I think if you push the extractor tube in too far it may curve up when it hits the end of the sump and miss some oil. Remove it abit while the pump is in operation just to agitate it abit.

jmreire

StereoSound wrote: »

I did remove the tube and re inserted it again to get maybe another pint of oil out. I think if you push the extractor tube in too far it may curve up when it hits the end of the sump and miss some oil. Remove it abit while the pump is in operation just to agitate it abit.

Yes, you are doing fine. You have to "dip" the drain tube up and down a few times, to avoid it bending, but you will soon find the correct level where it should be, then make a mark on the tube for future reference. If it's not your 1st time changing the oil in this car, you should know what is the oil capacity from previous changes. Then you should have a pretty good idea from what has drained how much is still left ( bear in mind that the filter will take oil too . ) The drainer I use has graduated marking's on the bottle, so I can tell exactly how much has been drained, no matter what make of car, and then you can compare this with what is the manufacturers capacity.;)