help me catch the bug

OffalyMedic

So i got my first road bike today as part of bike to work (great scheme). I was all excited to get out when the torrential turnderstorm started so will have to wait til morning to get out. In hindsight this is probably a good thing cause i don't know the first thing about how to ride a road bike.

1) i have pedels with clips and straps and i bought shoes too but no clips for them. How do i get my feet in and out of straps and tighten loosen them at lights etc?
2) is there a specific gear you use for cycling of flat, up hills, down hills etc or just what feels comfortable?

Any tips or insight to get out for a spin tomorrow and come home in one piece?

Fian

dump those pedals.

You want shoes that will take cleats - i suggest spd (not SPD-SL) which are generally known as mountain bike shoes. the benefit of these is you can walk in them without risk, with road bike shoes the cleat (the fitting that locks to the pedal) is below the sole so you are walking on metal not rubber.

You want pedals to match the shoes you buy.

You really really don't want to strap yourself into cage pedals because the answer to your question "how do i get my feet out at lights" is normally - you don't you slowly fall over but you do have the option of choosing whether you fall to the left or right.

These old cage pedals with straps are obsolete. for the last 20 years or more people use "clipless" pedals and shoes. Which is a misleading name because in fact they clip into the pedals, but they are called "clipless" to distinguish them from the pedals used in the 70s/80s which you have described, which you basically can't take your foot out of without raising, your foot, unstrapping, then doing the same for the other foot. That is fine for the end of a stage on the Tour de France, not so handy every time you come to a traffic light. those pedals do not need special shoes, trainers/runners are fine, though a rigid sole would be helpful.


Those pedals are also either not effective (you don't tighten them so you can take your foot out at lights) or really dangerous (you do tighten them so you can't take your foot out at lights). Modern pedals clip in more securely than a strap (they have an attachment (a cleat) that "locks" into the pedal) and unlock when you rotate your heel to the right.

Your cycling shoes presumably have a type of cleat that they accept, you need to buy the cleats & pedal that matches that cleat. or else buy a new set of shoes, cleats & pedals.

tbh it sounds like whatever shop sold you shoes, no cleats and strapped pedals is absolutely appalling. Where did you buy? honestly they sound like they need to be boycotted, was it actually a local bike shop? or maybe you bought from some chancer off done deal?

As to gears you just use what is comfortable. lowest gear for long steep hills, highest for downhill, close to highest for flats.

07Lapierre

Congrats on your new bike!

What bike did you get?

I recommend you remove the straps from the pedals and just get used to pedalling with your feet in the cages first. The chances are you'll never use the straps anyway as there a bit of a pain to use.

Gears...how many gears does your bike have? Do you have 2 or 3 chainrings on the front?

OffalyMedic

Fian wrote:

tbh it sounds like whatever shop sold you shoes, no cleats and strapped pedals is absolutely appalling. Where did you buy? honestly they sound like they need to be boycotted, was it actually a local bike shop? or maybe you bought from some chancer off done deal?

It's a very well know local bike shop in the Midlands. The day i went in to get the bike they were very helpful but i sent himself in today to collect it as i was busy in hindsight i should have gone myself and asked these questions!

These are the shoes they gave me. €90 https://goo.gl/images/x3QVYf. Anywhere else i can get cleats and peadles?

07Lapierre wrote:

What bike did you get?

Got a second hand but almost new specialized dolce for €500.

07Lapierre wrote:

Gears...how many gears does your bike have? Do you have 2 or 3 chainrings on the front?

2 on front 8 on back i think

plodder

Personally, I would have started off with just ordinary pedals, rather than the toe-clips you have or the clipless + shoe combo suggested above. If you're only getting used to cycling on a road bike and aren't sure about gears etc. then ordinary pedals would be a bit less stress, and one less thing to "learn".

07Lapierre

OffalyMedic wrote: »

It's a very well know local bike shop in the Midlands. The day i went in to get the bike they were very helpful but i sent himself in today to collect it as i was busy in hindsight i should have gone myself and asked these questions!

These are the shoes they gave me. €90 https://goo.gl/images/x3QVYf. Anywhere else i can get cleats and peadles?



Got a second hand but almost new specialized dolce for €500.



2 on front 8 on back i think

Poor show that they gave you shoes that are useless with the pedals that are on the bike! For the moment, just use runners and the pedals you have (without the straps) and once you are more comfortable cycling, you can then look at upgrading the pedals.

Once you buy new clipless pedals, they will come with cleats, so the only decision you have to make is if you are going to upgrade to Shimano or look pedals. It's a personal choice and totally up to you. I'm a Look pedal man...only because they were the first clipless pedals I ever bought and I've stuck with them ever since.

Do get yourself a descent pair of padded cycling shorts!

amcalester

You’ve had the bike a few hours, probably time to start looking for an upgrade.

You can keep your “older” bike as a winter trainer.

OffalyMedic

07Lapierre wrote:

Do get yourself a descent pair of padded cycling shorts!

plodder wrote:

Personally, I would have started off with just ordinary pedals, rather than the toe-clips you have or the clipless + shoe combo suggested above. If you're only getting used to cycling on a road bike and aren't sure about gears etc. then ordinary pedals would be a bit less stress, and one less thing to "learn".

I did indeed get myself good shorts...thanks for tips

OffalyMedic

http://www.halfords.ie/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductMobileDisplay?catalogId=15551&langId=-1&categoryId=212405&productId=250086&storeId=11101

See these in Halfords would they be recommended?

Carry spare tubes and tyre levers etc with you in a saddle/bike bag, saves patching a puncture on the side of the road. Practice changing them at home. Removing the wheels correctly, getting the tyre off and back on etc.

Some great youtube videos on these things.

You've the padded shorts covered but in case you don't know DO NOT make the mistake of wearing underwear with them, and have a look at getting some chamois cream if going a distance too.

cython

Weepsie wrote: »

With your shoes you can use SPD, SPD-SL and Look Keo (and presumably others with an adapter) as your pedals. SPDs are often recommended as they are sometimes double sided so easier to clip in, but the silver ones (not the black ones) are very easy to unclip from generally. SPD specific shoes are easy to walk around in too. These shoes would be hard enough to walk around in whatever way you go.

Be prepared to fall. It happens to us all.

You can, but I would strongly recommend against using SPDs with those road type shoes, as the protruding metal cleat (as opposed to road cleats which have some rubber grippers on the bottom and/or extremities) makes walking about as difficult as it could possibly be as there's no grip. You're basically getting the worst of both worlds, with only the advantage of double sided clipping in. And even that I imagine to be easier on MTB shoes, since the cleat recess should guide your foot on the pedal better.

OffalyMedic

cython wrote:

You can, but I would strongly recommend against using SPDs with those road type shoes, as the protruding metal cleat (as opposed to road cleats which have some rubber grippers on the bottom and/or extremities) makes walking about as difficult as it could possibly be as there's no grip. You're basically getting the worst of both worlds, with only the advantage of double sided clipping in. And even that I imagine to be easier on MTB shoes, since the cleat recess should guide your foot on the pedal better.

So what would you recommend?

lissard

OffalyMedic wrote: »

So what would you recommend?

Why not start with normal pedals and get a feel for the bike before upgrading to either Shimano SPD-L or Look Keos. It's a beautiful day out there, get out and about and enjoy it while it lasts.

Cee-Jay-Cee

Why is there such an insistence from so many on getting clipless pedals???

OP Start off in your regular runners till you get the hang of cycling and once you get more experience on the road and at junctions and in traffic then you can move to cliplless.

It should be possible to remove the cages from the pedals and if not go to your local bike shop and buy cheap flat pedals to get you started.

magicbastarder

might be worth keeping those shoes in their box (assuming you got them boxed) until you figure out which way you want to go, and see if you can return them, even for store credit, if you can.

what option you ultimately choose will depend on what use the bike will get - if you're going to be using it for commuting a lot, you may want to stick with basic pedals.

FWIW, i use SPD (the ones that allow you to walk relatively normally) and find they're a good compromise on a bike which is used for both commuting and 50k leisure spins.

lau1247

I use the shimano A530 which is two sided (Example link).

Handy if you need to just pop down the road or if you have the proper gear.

OffalyMedic

lau1247 wrote:

I use the shimano A530 which is two sided (

Thanks for the link but the one that opens says single sided pedals?

lau1247

one side for clipless shoe and one side for normal shoe..

OffalyMedic

Just back from my first cycle. Took off cage and straps and just used runners. Covered 12km on county roads just to build confidence. Unfortunately didn't look up how to use cateye trip computer thing before heading out or gears so after a quick rest break after struggling up my 3rd big hill unable to downshift and a consultation with you tuble the second half of trip went much better.


Who would have thought pushing gear leaver sidewards moved down gears...not me for one

GreeBo

OffalyMedic wrote: »

Just back from my first cycle. Took off cage and straps and just used runners. Covered 12km on county roads just to build confidence. Unfortunately didn't look up how to use cateye trip computer thing before heading out or gears so after a quick rest break after struggling up my 3rd big hill unable to downshift and a consultation with you tuble the second half of trip went much better.


Who would have thought pushing gear leaver sidewards moved down gears...not me for one

Get yourself strava or map my ride on your phone to keep track of where you went and get stats etc, tastier than an on-board computer.

OffalyMedic

GreeBo wrote:

Get yourself strava or map my ride on your phone to keep track of where you went and get stats etc, tastier than an on-board computer.

Had them but then had no where to put my phone

magicbastarder

do you want instant feedback, or feedback after the fact? i've never had an issue with putting the phone in a jersey pocket, if you're happy with getting after the fact stats.

Rechuchote

Careful with the sneakers, depending on their shape. I have gold sneakers which are fun and nice to walk in, but on the bike they kept kind of sticking to the pedals; changed them for narrower sneakers and these were fine.

You can stick your phone in your pocket and use Strava on it, works fine, or even have it in a pannier or basket.

Those Shimano dual-use pedals look great.

There are many forms of gears, with levers or things that wind backwards and forwards on the handlebars; one of my early bikes even had levers on the crossbar, if I remember right.

You were able to get a secondhand bike on the Bike-to-Work scheme? Have they changed the rules?

Well wear on the new bike.

OffalyMedic

magicbastarder wrote:

do you want instant feedback, or feedback after the fact? i've never had an issue with putting the phone in a jersey pocket, if you're happy with getting after the fact stats.

After fact is fine but didn't even have a jersey yet!

magicbastarder

remember, cyclign jerseys have the pockets on the lower back - you can get them cheap enough depending on where you go. aldi or lidl; but if you have a sports world (formerly heatons), they stock muddy fox brand and are more likely to have fitting rooms. i got two jerseys there recently for €26; not the greatest quality but you can't beat the value.

retalivity

magicbastarder wrote: »

; but if you have a sports world (formerly heatons), they stock muddy fox brand and are more likely to have fitting rooms. i got two jerseys there recently for €26; not the greatest quality but you can't beat the value.

Dont bother with their shorts though, next to useless. Youd be more comfortable in a pair of cotton boxers!

OffalyMedic

Rechuchote wrote:

Careful with the sneakers, depending on their shape. I have gold sneakers which are fun and nice to walk in, but on the bike they kept kind of sticking to the pedals; changed them for narrower sneakers and these were fine.

Wore my good Asics ones last night and they seemed to do grand! Thanks though

Rechuchote wrote:

You were able to get a secondhand bike on the Bike-to-Work scheme? Have they changed the rules?

Never thought of that actually. Guys in shop just gave me invoice for bike, shorts, helmet, lights and lock and i sent it to payroll

magicbastarder wrote:

remember, cyclign jerseys have the pockets on the lower back - you can get them cheap enough depending on where you go. aldi or lidl; but if you have a sports world (formerly heatons), they stock muddy fox brand and are more likely to have fitting rooms. i got two jerseys there recently for €26; not the greatest quality but you can't beat the value.

Must call into sportsdirect today so and get a jersey.


Can't see me getting on a bike for a while again with the pain in my bottom!

Rechuchote

OffalyMedic wrote: »

Can't see me getting on a bike for a while again with the pain in my bottom!

If you've got a pain in your bottom, your bike is set up wrong. Go back to the bike shop and ask them to adjust the saddle and handlebars so they're correct for your shape - they may move the saddle up and down and/or back and forward, and the handlebars up and down.

You probably need to learn good use of th'oul legs too. Beginner cyclists tend to go pedal-pedal-pedal-freeeeeewheeeeel, pedal-pedal-pedal. This wastes energy because you're constantly having to build up momentum. Better to keep a gentle turn of the pedals going in a nice easy gear, so the momentum remains the same. And don't put the instep of your foot on the pedal, use the ball of the foot, so your foot is gently turning while you're pedalling.

Wildly Boaring

Firstly forget the shoes, the jersey, Strava and all that jazz a while.

Cycled in runners and a t-shirt for 3 or 4 months myself when getting into it.

You have the shorts take care of them and wash after every cycle.
You have the helmet and the lights.

You will need tubes and levers.
See if Lidl or Aldi have saddle bag in stock.
https://goo.gl/images/WzQG4T
Then get 2 tubes and 3 or 4 proper levers from you local bike shop.
Learn from them, youtube or someone useful how to change a tube. It's hard to get the rear off and on when your starting.

Until then make sure you've someone to call and collect you. If needed.

You obviously found from youtube how your gears work. Practice this and braking.

I'd also call back to the shop and get them to set you up on the bike properly. It's nice to be comfortable. See if they'll take the shoes back a while. Be a real pity if you go to use them in a couple of months and they don't fit right.

Do a little youtubing of defensive cycling. Mainly just don't cycle right in the dirt at the side or in where a car door would get you. Use your hand signals.....

The sore ass is a combo of the saddle and using new muscles. It'll get better every time you get out.

Wildly Boaring

Wildly Boaring wrote: »

You obviously found from youtube how your gears work. Practice this and braking.

Oh and practice bring in the right gear. You should be able to sit in the saddle all the time and just spin the pedals. So you should be in a low enough gear on every hill that you are not forcing down your pedal strokes.

Rechuchote

A bit about setting up your bike - but the shop should help too:

magicbastarder

you're going to get some soreness at the start anyway, you're introducing a part of your body to furniture it's not used to...

sham58107

Good luck with the bike, mostly just enjoy ! and please be friendly to other cyclists, some " newer" cyclists I meet think they are in TDF, jeez even pros have time to lift a finger.

Also get a bottle cage and bring a drink and I always carry phone and 5 euro ( jersey pockets handy )and I would recommend a pair of sunglasses, not for posing( Although !!) seriously if a fly or dirt hits your eye, you will know and maybe fall off.

All other advice is spot on but, just enjoy the countryside and your new bike , rest will come in time. Great hobby and very good for clearing the head. Your are not in race ! enjoy.

Rechuchote

Also carry cards - credit/debit and if you have a free travel card, deffo that. My brake cable snapped in the wilds of Booterstown yesterday and I ended up having to borrow €50 from the brother-in-law to have enough to get both sets of brakes fixed. (Yeah, I know, I should be a mechanic. #BiteMe)

OffalyMedic

Out for my second cycle tonight. Again really enjoyable 15km in 40mins averaging 22km/h. Don't know if that is good bad or indifferent but it's a start.

What should i be aiming for time, distance wise over next few weeks?

Nothing wrong with that effort.

Lumen

OffalyMedic wrote: »

What should i be aiming for time, distance wise over next few weeks?

Just time. Don't aim for speed or distance. It's all neuromuscular adaptation so the only thing that counts is number of pedal strokes and developing smoothness.

Wildly Boaring

OffalyMedic wrote: »

Out for my second cycle tonight. Again really enjoyable 15km in 40mins averaging 22km/h. Don't know if that is good bad or indifferent but it's a start.

What should i be aiming for time, distance wise over next few weeks?

Nice one.
You're flying. That's a nice average speed

There's a rule of thumb of increasing mileage by a max of 10% per week for running. Working well for me right now. That'd put you up near 30k in 7 weeks.

Then see how you're going and reassess where you want to head. Hills? Aim for 100k? Find a club?.........

magicbastarder

you'll find you'll adapt your loops so they get longer as you get fitter. i deleted a load of old loops i'd set up on strava a few years ago; most of them i've not cycled in a couple of years precisely because they'd have me home too soon.

you'll probably find that as you get fitter, you won't be aiming to do as much as you can in one hour, but simply going out for as long as you can.

Rechuchote

OffalyMedic wrote: »

Out for my second cycle tonight. Again really enjoyable 15km in 40mins averaging 22km/h. Don't know if that is good bad or indifferent but it's a start.

What should i be aiming for time, distance wise over next few weeks?

You should be aiming to enjoy your cycle, look around, breathe in that good are, watch the cattle and sheep and horses in the fields, listen to the song of the birds, move through your countryside at a speed that makes you happy, stop for the odd chat.

OffalyMedic

Back from 3rd cycle. 22km in an hour and 5mins so average 20km/h. Felt shoulders, lower back and ass very sore for last 3-4km...could it be that my bike is set up wrong ? Or just getting used to position in saddle etc?

sham58107

Would think you are just getting used to bike, shoulders and arms are always sore ( with me anyway ) you can do some stretching exercises before .

But as others say just enjoy the pastime don't worry about times or distance.

You do not want to get into state where you are trying to better your efforts, that is one way to loose interest quickly.

Just enjoy and improvement will come, there is a 6 week course somewhere on internet by Lance Armstrong Yeah I know !! but very good suggests a few very easy days, just out spinning pedals, I used it to climb in the alps including Alpe de Hauz years ago.

Also try CTS training, but again just enjoy, or if you really want to do something aim for a goal, say 50k leisure cycle later in summer and you have something to aim at.

all the best and enjoy.

Fian

OffalyMedic wrote: »

Back from 3rd cycle. 22km in an hour and 5mins so average 20km/h. Felt shoulders, lower back and ass very sore for last 3-4km...could it be that my bike is set up wrong ? Or just getting used to position in saddle etc?

Ass pain is inevitable until you build up tolerance.

Shoulders and lower back could be a bike fit issue, especially if you are stretching to reach the handlebars. And I don't mean at the limit of your reach, you should not need to stretch at all.

Probably a good idea to check the frame size and ensure it is appropriate to you.

Honestly very unimpressed with the shop sending you out with a bike without knowing even how to change gears and the shoe/pedal combination, consequently I am not sure that they would have been careful to sell you the correct fitting bike. Hopefully I am doing them an injustice. Did they talk to you about sizes?

If you were to post your height and the lenght of your inseam there are posters on here much more knowledgeable than I who could tell you what size frame you should be using. I am 5'9" and use a 53cm frame, which is a huge difference in comfort from the 56cm frame i bought when i bought my first road bike.

OffalyMedic

Fian wrote:

Honestly very unimpressed with the shop sending you out with a bike without knowing even how to change gears and the shoe/pedal combination, consequently I am not sure that they would have been careful to sell you the correct fitting bike. Hopefully I am doing them an injustice. Did they talk to you about sizes?

Not really, worker asked the boss if the bike I bought was for sale (2nd hand) boss said yeah it is and it'll fit.

Im just shy of 5'6 and inseam is about 32"

OffalyMedic

Tough cycle tonight. Decided to do a quick one (12k ) as I was a little caught for time. Went a new route and regretted it very quick. Felt like all I did for first 9km was climb. Absolutely exhausted now. Gain was only 108m over the 12k how do people cycle mountain ranges???

OffalyMedic

So i've cyceld a bit now prob 20 odd spins in 4 months so for christmas i asked himself to get be pedals and cleats for my shoes. So he duly obliged but after setting them up i cant for the life of me clip in no matter how many youtube videos i watch or how many tips i read. it feels like the springs in the pedals are too stiff to open to let the clip in if that makes sense? Maybe i have the wrong shoe/ pedal/ cleat combo i dont know so heres some photos hopefully one of ye experts can help me!
https://imgur.com/a/S4pqLAA

Wishbone Ash

OffalyMedic wrote: »

So i've cyceld a bit now prob 20 odd spins in 4 months so for christmas i asked himself to get be pedals and cleats for my shoes. So he duly obliged but after setting them up i cant for the life of me clip in no matter how many youtube videos i watch or how many tips i read. it feels like the springs in the pedals are too stiff to open to let the clip in if that makes sense? Maybe i have the wrong shoe/ pedal/ cleat combo i dont know so heres some photos hopefully one of ye experts can help me!
https://imgur.com/a/S4pqLAA

The pedal clamp spring can be adjusted using a hex/allen key. It may be too tight. Loosen it until they clip in very easily and then tighten it a bit.

You may also need to adjust the angle of the cleats slightly until they are lined up to suit you.Everyone has a different preference.

OffalyMedic

Wishbone Ash wrote:

The pedal clamp spring can be adjusted using a hex/allen key. It may be too tight. Loosen it until they clip in very easily and then tighten it a bit.

Wishbone Ash wrote:

You may also need to adjust the angle of the cleats slightly until they are lined up to suit you.Everyone has a different preference.

Tried both of these with zero luck but maybe needs more trial and error

Wishbone Ash

Have you put the pedals on the correct side? They usually have a 'L' and 'R' on them.

OffalyMedic

Wishbone Ash wrote:

Have you put the pedals on the correct side? They usually have a 'L' and 'R' on them.

I would like to say yes but I'll double check in daylight tomorrow

ED E

Wishbone Ash wrote: »

Have you put the pedals on the correct side? They usually have a 'L' and 'R' on them.

The image says yes, adjuster is on the rear.


It should work. When you get it, be careful. Spend a few hours practicing at lights so you don't forget it 2hrs into a ride and hit the deck.