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Drive slipping going uphill

  • 03-06-2018 10:23pm
    #1
    Mikenesson
    Closed Accounts Posts: 318 ✭✭


    Hi, the bike is slipping when I apply force going uphill

    I've tried the usual ,setting up the rear derailleur again and I don't think it's bent either.The shifting is off slightly no matter how i adjust it.

    Im just wondering what the best way to diagnose the issue is ,thanks.


Comments

  • #2
    Pinch Flat
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,769 ✭✭✭Pinch Flat


    Mikenesson wrote: »
    Hi, the bike is slipping when I apply force going uphill

    I've tried the usual ,setting up the rear derailleur again and I don't think it's bent either.The shifting is off slightly no matter how i adjust it.

    Im just wondering what the best way to diagnose the issue is ,thanks.

    What sort of mileage is on the chain / cassette? What condition are the front chain rings in? Any chance some of them are worn?

    I can find a rear derailleur that’s got too much tension in it can slip and grind as well.


  • #3
    Mikenesson
    Closed Accounts Posts: 318 ✭✭Mikenesson


    Pinch Flat wrote: »
    What sort of mileage is on the chain / cassette? What condition are the front chain rings in? Any chance some of them are worn?

    I can find a rear derailleur that’s got too much tension in it can slip and grind as well.

    I don't think.its the front chain rings as the large one doesn't get used and it's slipping on that too

    Chain /cassette I'm not sure on mileage but going by time only they're not due for change


    When you say derailleur cable tight you mean not dropping onto the smaller sprockets?


  • #4
    Lumen
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 31,220 ✭✭✭✭Lumen


    Mikenesson wrote: »
    Chain /cassette I'm not sure on mileage but going by time only they're not due for change
    Time doesn't matter, wear does.

    Start by measuring the chain for wear, and check cassette teeth profile.


  • #5
    Mikenesson
    Closed Accounts Posts: 318 ✭✭Mikenesson


    Lumen wrote: »
    Time doesn't matter, wear does.

    Start by measuring the chain for wear, and check cassette teeth profile.

    I'm thinking it is just the chain stretched


  • #6
    Pinch Flat
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,769 ✭✭✭Pinch Flat


    To be honest looking at that chain and crankset it looks like it’s had zero maintenance. Most likely worn I’d say - the gunge on it will wear a chain quicker.


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  • #7
    saccades
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,274 ✭✭✭saccades


    Pinch Flat wrote: »
    To be honest looking at that chain and crankset it looks like it’s had zero maintenance. Most likely worn I’d say - the gunge on it will wear a chain quicker.

    Freehub going?


  • #8
    Mikenesson
    Closed Accounts Posts: 318 ✭✭Mikenesson


    Pinch Flat wrote: »
    To be honest looking at that chain and crankset it looks like it’s had zero maintenance. Most likely worn I’d say - the gunge on it will wear a chain quicker.

    Drivetrain is stripped down and fully cleaned a few times a year?

    Only thing that hasn't been changed is front rings and Bb


  • #9
    macnab
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,505 ✭✭✭macnab


    Judging by that photo the chain is very stretched. Its barely engaging 50% of your drive sprocket.


  • #10
    Mikenesson
    Closed Accounts Posts: 318 ✭✭Mikenesson


    macnab wrote: »
    Judging by that photo the chain is very stretched. Its barely engaging 50% of your drive sprocket.

    It is ,Lumen put me on the right track there

    I wasn't thinking of the obvious


  • #11
    magicbastarder
    Moderators, Category Moderators, Arts Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 50,882 CMod ✭✭✭✭magicbastarder


    going by the photo, the chain is seated on the ring at 3 o'clock, but seems to be sitting far too far back on the teeth at 12 o clock? the centre of the teeth should be marrying up with the centre of the links. badly worn chain, i'd guess.

    did you recently oil the chain? it looks like it's dripping with oil, which will really only help to attract dirt.

    you will quite likely need to change cassette too if you've been using a chain that badly worn. and you can just get a hint of sharkfinning on one of the teeth on the small chainring (the one beside the cable for the FD), which might suggest that needs replacement too.


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  • #12
    Mikenesson
    Closed Accounts Posts: 318 ✭✭Mikenesson


    magicbastarder wrote: »
    going by the photo, the chain is seated on the ring at 3 o'clock, but seems to be sitting far too far back on the teeth at 12 o clock? the centre of the teeth should be marrying up with the centre of the links. badly worn chain, i'd guess.

    did you recently oil the chain? it looks like it's dripping with oil, which will really only help to attract dirt.

    you will quite likely need to change cassette too if you've been using a chain that badly worn.

    http://www.halfords.ie/cycling/bike-maintenance/bike-lube/muc-off-wet-lube-bike-lubricant-120ml

    I use the above in between cleaning


  • #13
    tomasrojo
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 11,853 ✭✭✭✭tomasrojo


    Very much sounds like a new chain is needed, as already said. Also, as already said, you might need to replace chain rings and sprockets too. This happened to me in the past, and I had to replace the lot.


  • #14
    07Lapierre
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,309 ✭✭✭07Lapierre


    New chainrings, new chain, new cassette and while your at it, new cables.


  • #15
    Mikenesson
    Closed Accounts Posts: 318 ✭✭Mikenesson


    07Lapierre wrote: »
    New chainrings, new chain, new cassette and while your at it, new cables.

    I'm prob going to do the lot including BB after the summer

    The bike is a Trek 1000 with 2 chainrings.
    How would I determine what chainrings, BB and tools I need ?

    https://archive.trekbikes.com/au/en/2007/trek/1000#/au/en/2007/trek/1000/details

    The exact model with only 2 chainrings doesnt seem to be listed although I'm sure they're all similar enough?


  • #16
    Raam
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 14,318 ✭✭✭✭Raam


    Teeth on those chainrings are totally worn out.


  • #17
    07Lapierre
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,309 ✭✭✭07Lapierre


    Mikenesson wrote: »
    I'm prob going to do the lot including BB after the summer

    The bike is a Trek 1000 with 2 chainrings.
    How would I determine what chainrings, BB and tools I need ?

    https://archive.trekbikes.com/au/en/2007/trek/1000#/au/en/2007/trek/1000/details

    The exact model with only 2 chainrings doesnt seem to be listed although I'm sure they're all similar enough?

    You'll need one of these:

    http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/ie/en/x-tools-bike-tool-kit-37-piece/rp-prod55963

    A descent work stand would be good too:

    http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/ie/en/park-tool-home-mechanic-repair-stand-pcs10/rp-prod12702


  • #18
    Pinch Flat
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,769 ✭✭✭Pinch Flat


    OP given it’s an eight speed chain and cassette will be relatively cheap.

    Parts:

    http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/mobile/ie/en/sram-pg850-8-speed-cassette/rp-prod17901

    http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/mobile/ie/en/shimano-hg71-6-8-speed-chain/rp-prod128727

    Bike on your link is listed as a triple, but seems to be a compact in the photo - for working out the Chainrings - check diameter (the Bolt Circle Diameter) and number of teeth. Assuming a common BCD of 130mm and a 50/34 combo, likely to set you back

    http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/mobile/ie/en/shimano-tiagra-fc4550-chainrings/rp-prod38169

    Chainrjngs could probably be had cheaper - check the BCD and number of teeth

    Parts - about €65-70

    Minimum tools (assuming you have Allen keys, screw drivers etc)

    Chainbreaker

    Chain whip

    Cassette remover

    Can be had in halfords for around €30 for the lot, but the tool kit posted earlier would be an excellent choice if you’re planning on doing the B.B. as well.


  • #19
    Mikenesson
    Closed Accounts Posts: 318 ✭✭Mikenesson


    Pinch Flat wrote: »
    OP given it’s an eight speed chain and cassette will be relatively cheap.

    Parts:

    http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/mobile/ie/en/sram-pg850-8-speed-cassette/rp-prod17901

    http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/mobile/ie/en/shimano-hg71-6-8-speed-chain/rp-prod128727

    Bike on your link is listed as a triple, but seems to be a compact in the photo - for working out the Chainrings - check diameter (the Bolt Circle Diameter) and number of teeth. Assuming a common BCD of 130mm and a 50/34 combo, likely to set you back

    http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/mobile/ie/en/shimano-tiagra-fc4550-chainrings/rp-prod38169

    Chainrjngs could probably be had cheaper - check the BCD and number of teeth

    Parts - about €65-70

    Minimum tools (assuming you have Allen keys, screw drivers etc)

    Chainbreaker

    Chain whip

    Cassette remover

    Can be had in halfords for around €30 for the lot, but the tool kit posted earlier would be an excellent choice if you’re planning on doing the B.B. as well.

    Ok thanks for the comprehensive reply


  • #20
    Mikenesson
    Closed Accounts Posts: 318 ✭✭Mikenesson


    Very helpful with the replies thanks,I have the main jist of it now

    How would I figure out the type of BB?

    Would I need to remove it first,it's not listed on the manufacturers spec page?


  • #21
    Pinch Flat
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,769 ✭✭✭Pinch Flat


    Mikenesson wrote: »
    Very helpful with the replies thanks,I have the main jist of it now

    How would I figure out the type of BB?

    Would I need to remove it first,it's not listed on the manufacturers spec page?

    Looks like it might be a square taper one. They can be a bit of a nightmare to remove and you need a special tool as well - they’re not to expensive. There’s a risk you might strip the threads, so might be better leaving that to a local bike shop IMO


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  • #22
    Wishbone Ash
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 25,038 ✭✭✭✭Wishbone Ash


    Mikenesson wrote: »
    ... after the summer....
    After the summer????

    FFS - that bike needs emergency treatment now!


  • #23
    Mikenesson
    Closed Accounts Posts: 318 ✭✭Mikenesson


    Wishbone Ash wrote: »
    After the summer????

    FFS - that bike needs emergency treatment now!

    Have chainring, cassette and chain on the way

    I think I'm gonna go with 1 chainring as the larger is never used

    What's the best rear cog to try to line it up with?

    I usually hover around the 6th and 7th highest gears on the rear 8-speed


  • #24
    Type 17
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,731 ✭✭✭Type 17


    Mikenesson wrote: »
    What's the best rear cog to try to line it up with?

    The front rings line up with whatever cogs on the rear that Trek decided, ie: it's a factor of the length of the bottom bracket axle, the offset of the front crank arm, and the axle spacing.
    You can assume that Trek got it right...


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