MTB Tubes vs Tubeless

Sunsets On Tuesday

Hi all, need to sort this out soon.
I got a MTB off Alek from here, and it has a "home made" tubeless set up. I was using the bike for a few months and never had any punctures, despite my best efforts.

However, then air starting leaking out of the valve, and so it will have to be resealed.

I am just conflicted now as to whether I should continue with tubeless, which undoubtedly provides better puncture protection (but comes with more complicated maintenance - I can't really get my head around how one does it) or go back to tubes, which means I may get more punctures but are easier to maintain!

What would you recommend? Will the move back to tubes lead to a significant increase in punctures?

TooObvious

Tubeless all the way! You'd regret going back to tubes.

Alek

You will need:

1. Sealant. Just get standard Stan's, that's what you had there.
2. Valve removal tool + spare valve cores. As far as I remember they are the same as on a car (Schrader's) so get these or visit your local garage and ask: https://www.amazon.co.uk/SENZEAL-Single-Valve-Removers-Repair/dp/B0716RTCF6/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1527239162&sr=8-3&keywords=schrader%2Bvalve%2Btool&th=1
3. a little piece of flexible tubing you can fit over the valve and a larger syringe (20cc) or a small funnel. Just the syringe may do.
4. Possibly a CO2 cartdridge and injector. I gave you some AFAIR?

And then:

1. Let all the air out.
2. Remove the existing valve core with the tool
3. Put 100ml of shaken sealant via the valve. This can get messy if you're improvising, do it outdoors.
4. Screw the new valve in.

If you did not take the tyre off the rim, just inflate with your track pump. If the air is leaking somewhere, you may need to start with a CO2 cartdrige.


It's not rocket science at all, believe me

harringtonp

And have a read of

https://www.boards.ie/vbulletin/showthread.php?p=105517656

It relates to road (which is generally considered more difficult than MTB) but the principles are all the same and it is full of useful information

C3PO

Tubeless is a no-brainer on a mountain bike! Lots of conversion options available!

triggermortis

Is air leaking from the valve core or around the valve stem? If it’s the stem you will need to remove the stem to replace the seal at the base.
Even if this does need doing, all the faff is worth it IMO as tubeless is definitely the way to go on a MTB.

Alek

If it’s the stem you will need to remove the stem to replace the seal at the base.

Its a getto setup with sliced tubes on the rims, so very unlikely it leaks from around the valve. Tubes were new when I installed them a year ago.

C3PO

Alek wrote: »

Its a getto setup with sliced tubes on the rims, so very unlikely it leaks from around the valve. Tubes were new when I installed them a year ago.

Not so sure about that Alek - I've had a few issues where the rubber split where the valve joined the tube when using a ghetto set up!

steamsey

Tubeless all the way. I would not even consider riding tubed.

I'm going to regret saying this (as it will curse me) but on my current MTB I have a proper tubeless set up and have not had one issue in over a year. Prior to that, I had 4 years on my old bike with very few issues.

It's not complicated at all and is practically maintenance free - once it's set up, just lob a bit of Stans in there every once in a while.

What I will say is that when I tried tubeless first a few years ago, my rims were not designed for tubeless - so the tyre was constantly rolling off the rim and I thought the whole thing was a marketing ploy (it's not).

Make sure the rims and tyres are designed for tubeless and get rid of any homemade / ghetto tubeless set up - once your rims and tyres are the right ones, the cost to doing it properly is very low - mainly Stans valve and rim tape (if not already there).

If you want to keep cost down you don't need the valve remover tool - just carefully use a pinch nose pliers and shoot the Stans into the tyre via the valve (with core removed) with a plastic syringe (free from chemist).

It's dead easy to do it right - I think that messing with ghetto set ups will cause more anguish than it's worth.

iwillhtfu

Sunsets On Tuesday wrote: »

I am just conflicted now as to whether I should continue with tubeless, which undoubtedly provides better puncture protection (but comes with more complicated maintenance - I can't really get my head around how one does it) or go back to tubes, which means I may get more punctures but are easier to maintain!

It's not just a matter of puncture protection going tubeless you can run much lower psi which will increase levels of grip and transform your riding.

You'll have to be sure your rims & tyres are tubless ready there's a good chance they may not be if they're old or a cheap brand.

There's little to no maintenance on it every 6 months or so I check the sealant or replace it if needs be.

TooObvious

Forget about a ghetto set up. Sounds great but in practice can be a bit of a pain to put in place.

For the sake of a few quid, get a proper tubeless strip, valve and some stans liquid and you should be good to go. I've ridden tubeless on the MTB since 2003 and very, very rarely have punctures (save the odd valve ripped off). Even back in 2003 the general consensus was why aren't people running UST (Mavic tubeless standard at the time)?