Painting extension

Mach Two

Just getting ready to paint my new extension. Do i start on walls/ceiling or doors/skirting.

jonon9

When I paint my rooms I do in order:

1. Ceiling.
2. Walls.
3.Skirting and doors.

Mach Two

jonon9 wrote: »

When I paint my rooms I do in order:

1. Ceiling.
2. Walls.
3.Skirting and doors.

Just thinking that the wall paint might hit the new skirting.

jonon9

Mach Two wrote: »

Just thinking that the wall paint might hit the new skirting.

If you haven't painted before just go around the room with masking tape and cover the edges of the skirting etc and cut in with your brush, A little time spent doing some prep will save alot of cleanup down the road. Also dont forget to throw a few painting sheets down.

Mach Two

Should I full the gap between the skirting and the timber flooring with caulk.

mloc123

Mach Two wrote: »

Should I full the gap between the skirting and the timber flooring with caulk.

No... I wouldn't

jonon9

Mach Two wrote: »

Should I full the gap between the skirting and the timber flooring with caulk.

No that gap is to let the floor and skirting move independent of each other.

martinr5232

Paint ceiling first two coats i go forward and back then side to side bring your ceiling paint down the wall a few inches.
Then paint your wall.
Undercoat and paint skirting then do the cutting in around ceiling and skirting.
Thats how i do it anyway.

omeara1113

Prime all woodwork first then finish ceiling as last poster said then coat the walls then spotfill all woodwork and walls when dry finish walls then finally all woodwork

Mach Two

Should I give the walls and timberwork a rub of sandpaper first.

FrancieBrady

Mach Two wrote: »

Should I give the walls and timberwork a rub of sandpaper first.

No, I wouldn't.
Put a coat on first. Careful what sandpaper you use on walls, generally only need a very light rub. I actually use Scotch pads (available in car shops for rubbing down cars) https://www.craigmoreonline.ie/3m-07447-scotchbrite-hand-pad-box-of-20?utm_source=google&utm_medium=base&utm_campaign=products&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI3v_-19nX2gIVw7HtCh0LSwf6EAQYBCABEgLsbPD_BwE
Most car shops will sell them singly if you ask.

Painting wood will raise the grain and stiffen splinters making them easier to sand. Use sandpaper (going down in grade) between coats too. First coat thin, as a primer second an u/c, (third u/c if neccessary,) then topcoat.

Thin paint well for first coat (mist coat) on walls and ceilings too.

Mach Two

FrancieBrady wrote: »

No, I wouldn't.
Put a coat on first. Careful what sandpaper you use on walls, generally only need a very light rub. I actually use Scotch pads (available in car shops for rubbing down cars) https://www.craigmoreonline.ie/3m-07447-scotchbrite-hand-pad-box-of-20?utm_source=google&utm_medium=base&utm_campaign=products&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI3v_-19nX2gIVw7HtCh0LSwf6EAQYBCABEgLsbPD_BwE
Most car shops will sell them singly if you ask.

Painting wood will raise the grain and stiffen splinters making them easier to sand. Use sandpaper (going down in grade) between coats too. First coat thin, as a primer second an u/c, (third u/c if neccessary,) then topcoat.

Thin paint well for first coat (mist coat) on walls and ceilings too.

How about the use of bin primer?

And steel wool on the walls.

FrancieBrady

Mach Two wrote: »

How about the use of bin primer?

And steel wool on the walls.

I'm old school and never bothered much with BIN primer on new wood. Thinned U/C has never let me down.

Steel wool might be too fine. All depends on how the plasterers finished.

romaderwdcsax

If any furniture make sure it’s covered, move it out of the area if possible. Cover your floors with heavy duty sheets. Mask any sockets/switches, mask between skirting and floor so you don’t have to worry about paint on the floor.
1. Touch up any knots in timber with bin shellac
2. 1st coat ceiling
3. 1st coat walls with white
4. Coat all timber work with bin
5. 2nd and final coat to ceiling
6. 1st coat of chosen colour to walls
7. Let walls dry
8. Fill any defects in walls
9. Caulk top of skirting/side of architrave and fill nail holes with powder filler
10. Touch up any filler on walls with chosen colour, let dry
11. Finish walls
12. Sand between coats and apply two coats of your chosen timber colour.
Give the walls a light sand between coats with fine grade sandpaper to remove any nibs in plaster/paint.
Might sound like a lot of work but take your time, do it right and You will end up with a very tasty job.

Mach Two

romaderwdcsax wrote: »

If any furniture make sure it’s covered, move it out of the area if possible. Cover your floors with heavy duty sheets. Mask any sockets/switches, mask between skirting and floor so you don’t have to worry about paint on the floor.
1. Touch up any knots in timber with bin shellac
2. 1st coat ceiling
3. 1st coat walls with white
4. Coat all timber work with bin
5. 2nd and final coat to ceiling
6. 1st coat of chosen colour to walls
7. Let walls dry
8. Fill any defects in walls
9. Caulk top of skirting/side of architrave and fill nail holes with powder filler
10. Touch up any filler on walls with chosen colour, let dry
11. Finish walls
12. Sand between coats and apply two coats of your chosen timber colour.
Give the walls a light sand between coats with fine grade sandpaper to remove any nibs in plaster/paint.
Might sound like a lot of work but take your time, do it right and You will end up with a very tasty job.

What do I do with nails on skirting and door frames. Nearly all of them are flush with the surface. Some are proud on the door frames.

FrancieBrady

Mach Two wrote: »

What do I do with nails on skirting and door frames. Nearly all of them are flush with the surface. Some are proud on the door frames.

Get a punch and tap them in before filling them with powder fillers as above.

Mach Two

FrancieBrady wrote: »

Get a punch and tap them in before filling them with powder fillers as above.

You won't tap in the skirting nails. All concrete nails used for the skirting on to concrete walls. Is caulk a powder filler.

romaderwdcsax

Mach Two wrote: »

You won't tap in the skirting nails. All concrete nails used for the skirting on to concrete walls. Is caulk a powder filler.

No, caulk is a flexible filler only used for joints that move, tops of skirting, side of architraves etc.
Powder filler needs to be mixed with water. Try banging the nails back into wall with a hammer and then fill nail holes and hammer marks with powder filler

FrancieBrady

romaderwdcsax wrote: »

No, caulk is a flexible filler only used for joints that move, tops of skirting, side of architraves etc.
Powder filler needs to be mixed with water. Try banging the nails back into wall with a hammer and then fill nail holes and hammer marks with powder filler

This ^ and don't rehire the 'craftsman' that left them that way!

Mach Two

Thanks everyone. I think I am ready to proceed now. Just to pick out the colours. Looking forward to seeing it finished and enjoying my hard work.

romaderwdcsax

Mach Two wrote: »

Thanks everyone. I think I am ready to proceed now. Just to pick out the colours. Looking forward to seeing it finished and enjoying my hard work.

Best of luck with it. If your masking underneath skirtings just make sure that the masking tape is pushed back in underneath the skirting a few mils so that way you have a clean sharp line instead of leaving the tape against the skirting and having paint creep onto the floor. Good quality masking tape is worth the extra few euros for this situation.

romaderwdcsax

romaderwdcsax wrote: »

Best of luck with it. If your masking underneath skirtings just make sure that the masking tape is pushed back in underneath the skirting a few mils so that way you have a clean sharp line instead of leaving the tape against the skirting and having paint creep onto the floor. Good quality masking tape is worth the extra few euros for this situation.

Forgot to add, 2 or 3 inch, 3m brand of masking tape is the one I’d recommend for this job.

romaderwdcsax

Mach Two wrote: »

Thanks everyone. I think I am ready to proceed now. Just to pick out the colours. Looking forward to seeing it finished and enjoying my hard work.

Best of luck with it. If your masking underneath skirtings just make sure that the masking tape is pushed back in underneath the skirting a few mils so that way you have a clean sharp line instead of leaving the tape against the skirting and having paint creep onto the floor. Good quality masking tape is worth the extra few euros for this situation.

Wishbone Ash

Mach Two wrote: »

... Just to pick out the colours. Looking forward to seeing it finished and enjoying my hard work.

You do realise that as soon as you finish she'll decide that she not that happy with the colours that she has chosen.

....and when you finish painting the extension, the rest of the house will look shabby!

Mach Two

Wishbone Ash wrote: »

You do realise that as soon as you finish she'll decide that she not that happy with the colours that she has chosen.

....and when you finish painting the extension, the rest of the house will look shabby!

I agree to all of the above. One of pros of being single. Pros and cons to everything in life. Some day maybe.........

Mach Two

Another question for ye. Do I paint along the door jamb. As in the side where the hinges are. I thought I saw a door once and the timber was not painted. It was to allow the door to close properly. There would be no build up of paint to affect the closing of the door.

Mach Two

Also. Preprimed doors. What is the situation with them?

ouxbbkqtswdfaw

Sand and paint door jamb, sand and undercoat and then sand and satinwood doors. Oil paint the best.

Mach Two

h5a0jc318fgpev wrote: »

Sand and paint door jamb, sand and undercoat and then sand and satinwood doors. Oil paint the best.

I presume matt rather than gloss paint is still an oil paint.

ouxbbkqtswdfaw

Satinwood is between matt and gloss. Matt gathers handprints etc. OK for undercoat. Second coat satinwood. Satinwood is easier to apply than gloss. Satinwood gives a more modern look.