Painting over woodstain

Lex Luthor

Currently have some doors downstairs that are solid wood but got stained many years ago with some Ronseal woodstain pine colour.

Skirting boards done aswell

Would like to brighten up the room so looking at painting them with French White satinwood as I have this colour elsewhere

Can anyone let me know what I need to do to prepare the doors prior to painting so the stain doesn't come through or any of the knots. The doors are about 20yrs old

Thanks

Wyldwood

I'm in the middle of this exact job. It's a pain but well worth it.

I sanded them first, just to roughen up the varnish then put on a coat of Zinnser Bin primer. This stuff stinks so make sure you have plenty of ventilation. It also dries very quickly so you can overcoat in about an hour. Give another sand in between coats. I followed the Bin with 2 coats of Fleetwood waterbased undercoat and a waterbased satinwood topcoat with a light sanding in between coats. I used a small mohair roller which gave a great finish and a small angled brush for around the panels.

My doors were mahogany so had to give them an extra top coat to get a good cover but as your doors are lighter you might get away with less.

Johnnywaters

Hi
I'm doing something similar

I'm still undecided on water or oil based for the timberwork .

Do you happen to have a link to the mohair roller?

Wyldwood

Mohair mini roller like these

https://www.woodies.ie/woodies-4-mohair-2pk-roller-1124763

Juwwi

the Zinnser Bin primer is great stuff but leave it to dry overnight before painting over it ,even tho it says you can paint over in a hour its a much better job if left to dry to harden properly .

Wyldwood

robbie1977 wrote: »

the Zinnser Bin primer is great stuff but leave it to dry overnight before painting over it ,even tho it says you can paint over in a hour its a much better job if left to dry to harden properly .

I should have clarified that although it says you can recoat after an hour I waited 24 hours between each coat so it took a long time to do.

dok_golf

I'm asked to do this job more and more often these days. Clean down the woodwork. Coat with B.I.N. . I then use an undercoat/primer/sealer from Fleetwood called Bloxx It. Two coats of this and 2 top coats of water based satinwood and the jobs a good 'un.You need to sand and clean inbetween coats of bloxx It. Btw, it's a horrible time consuming job and I charge a premium for doing it so, if you have the patience, then work away yourself.

Wyldwood

dok_golf wrote: »

I'm asked to do this job more and more often these days. Clean down the woodwork. Coat with B.I.N. . I then use an undercoat/primer/sealer from Fleetwood called Bloxx It. Two coats of this and 2 top coats of water based satinwood and the jobs a good 'un.You need to sand and clean inbetween coats of bloxx It. Btw, it's a horrible time consuming job and I charge a premium for doing it so, if you have the patience, then work away yourself.

Can I ask why you use both BIN and Bloxx-it? I thought they were both similar products. I used Bloxx-it on one door after sanding the varnish but the oily smell lingered for days so went back to BIN after that. While BIN smells strongly while fresh the smell fades quickly as it dries. A mask is essential for both.

dok_golf

The B.I.N. is a shellac based primer that will stop the knots bleeding through. Trouble is, it's coverage isn't great and it is expensive. The Bloxx It primer is much better at coverage than either BIN or an actual undercoat. By using both primers, I can ensure that I get the job done in 5 coats altogether. With BIN and undercoat, it takes 6 , imo, to get a perfect finish, 2 BIN, 2 undercoat and 2 topcoat ( assuming paint is water based)

Textronic

dok_golf wrote: »

I'm asked to do this job more and more often these days. Clean down the woodwork. Coat with B.I.N. . I then use an undercoat/primer/sealer from Fleetwood called Bloxx It. Two coats of this and 2 top coats of water based satinwood and the jobs a good 'un.You need to sand and clean inbetween coats of bloxx It. Btw, it's a horrible time consuming job and I charge a premium for doing it so, if you have the patience, then work away yourself.

Hi ,what type of brushes and rollers do you use for the water based satinwood?

Thanks

dok_golf

I use Hamilton Performance brushes for practically everything but recently tried Harris trade brushes for woodwork and was quite impressed. Re: rollers, DO NOT use the glossing sponge rollers, they leave a finish like orange peel. Get a short pile 4 inch mohair roller. This will give you the nearest thing to a smooth finish apart from spraying. Fleetwood do exceptional ones.

tweek84

Sorry for bumping an old thread but we are getting our kitchen presses repainted.
I talked to two painters both recommend Zinsser primer but one is recommending Bullseye 123 the other is recommending the Bin primer, Would anyone know which is the better product? Also can this primer be just painted direct on to Laminated covered chip board? (the doors on our presses are solid wood but the carcasses are chip board)
Any input or help appreciated......I hate painting

dok_golf

Bulleye 123 is a water based primer. Its rubbish imo. BIN is a shellac based primer ( same as nail varnish). This will stop any staining coming through. What I would recommend after the BIN ( Fleetwood do the same primer called Terminator but its about 20% cheaper), is Rustoleum All In One primer & paint. It provides exceptional covering power and if done properly, will leave a flawless finish ( the above is assuming using brush and roller to apply paint)

dok_golf

Also, make sure your kitchen is delaminating anywhere.

tweek84

@dok_golf Thanks

I picked up a tin of Bin primer on the way home, i asked in the shop and they recommended the Bin over the Bullseye, needless to say it was twice the price.
I was wondering around the shop looking at rollers, colours and what not and i spotted a Bin primer in the sale section it had been tinted navy 10euro so that done the trick.
Initially her in doors wanted to paint all the presses cream but after i put the navy primer on the carcasses she is now toying with the idea of navy carcasses with cream doors...... that 10 euro might cost me more on the long run ha ha

tweek84

dok_golf wrote: »

Also, make sure your kitchen is delaminating anywhere.

Yes i removed any surfaces that were delaminating and have filled all holes that were on the presses, i have to sand them smooth over the weekend great fun:mad:

Lex Luthor

finally after all this time gotten around to starting on this job
First coat of Zinnser BIN on the skirtings/architrave yesterday
Think we have decided to leave the doors alone in the woodstain and see how it looks when we've finished painting the wood/walls with the new colours
Its not the easiest of paint to work with and next step now is to fill in all the little gaps between joints and wall

I wont get a chance to do the 2nd coat of BIN until Monday so this one has plenty time to harden
Will keep you updated on how it goes
Thanks for all the advice here, its been priceless