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New bike for commuting

Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 446 ✭✭Ranjo


    Apart from cycling to work. Would you be thinking of any other cycling?

    You've got a road bike there and two hybrids. If you're ever inclined to go out for a longer cycle over the weekends, then the road bike would be the better choice. Its 1.9kg lighter than the Cube too. I cycle 19km each way aswell, and I have both a hybrid and a road bike. I'd much prefer the road bike for that distance.

    I'd be inclined to spend as much as possible too. You're getting a great rate with the B2W.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 15 Clean Sheet


    Ranjo wrote: »
    Apart from cycling to work. Would you be thinking of any other cycling?

    You've got a road bike there and two hybrids. If you're ever inclined to go out for a longer cycle over the weekends, then the road bike would be the better choice. Its 1.9kg lighter than the Cube too. I cycle 19km each way aswell, and I have both a hybrid and a road bike. I'd much prefer the road bike for that distance.

    I'd be inclined to spend as much as possible too. You're getting a great rate with the B2W.


    That's what the lad in the shop said too about the road bike. I couldn't see myself doing any extra cycling to be honest. Roughly what time would it be taking me to that distance, its mostly flat?

    Thanks for the reply


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,150 ✭✭✭homer911


    That's what the lad in the shop said too about the road bike. I couldn't see myself doing any extra cycling to be honest. Roughly what time would it be taking me to that distance, its mostly flat?

    Thanks for the reply


    That's going to depend on your level of fitness, wind direction, traffic lights etc. You could reasonably expect to do an average 25Kph


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,795 ✭✭✭C3PO


    homer911 wrote: »
    You could reasonably expect to do an average 25Kph

    Hmm .. sounds a bit ambitious to me! For someone who is not an experienced cyclist and allowing for traffic stops etc I would expect a 19kms commute to take close to an hour!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,313 ✭✭✭07Lapierre


    The Trek FX3 has a triple chainset. You don’t need a triple chainset unless your commute is very hilly.

    Get the Road bike. It has a compact chainset which is a much better option.

    Will you need mudguards? Will you have to carry stuff with you on your commute? ( work clothes, laptop etc.)


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 446 ✭✭Ranjo


    Roughly what time would it be taking me to that distance, its mostly flat?
    Cruising at about average speed 20kph, you're looking at 57 mins. But you'll be able to improve that over time. 25kph is achievable. I average 28-30kph on decent days.

    I still suggest the road bike for that distance, even if you're not planning to do weekend cycles.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,300 ✭✭✭CantGetNoSleep


    If you were in good shape and it didn't have any traffic / lights etc. you would still be looking at close to an hour - you might get it down to 45 mins if you were really going for it


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,313 ✭✭✭07Lapierre


    My commute is 25k and on a god day I can do it in 45minutes. On average it takes 50-55minutes.

    How long it will take the OP to do...only the OP knows the answer as we do t know the route, the terrain, no. Of traffic lights, no of junctions.... even the no of bloody Lollypop ladies that stop the traffic! :)


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 15 Clean Sheet


    Thanks for the comments, looks like the road bike is the one to go for!

    Won't have much to carry with me at all and in decent enough shape. Was hoping to get in within the hour so will see how it goes.

    Cheers


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,313 ✭✭✭07Lapierre



    Won't have much to carry with me at all and in decent enough shape. Was hoping to get in within the hour so will see how it goes.

    Cheers

    In that case up your budget and buy a better bike. Use the full €1000 for the bike. The most important Accessory you'll need is a descent lock (or Two)


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  • I commute about 20km each way, I don't explicitly time it but I think I'm in the 50-55mins range mostly. I'm fairly unfit and the time isn't coming down too much after 6 months or so. But you're in that ballpark. You should definitely do it in under an hour if you're already fit enough.

    My bike is quite heavy being a hybrid but it has built in mudguards, came with mudguards (do get mudguards) and a pannier rack all of which I find very useful.


    Starting to commute by bike is one of the best things I've done in the last couple of years. The bike has comfortably paid for itself by now through saving on public transport/fuel and I'm getting my exercise in. Could not recommend it more.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 23,157 ✭✭✭✭Alanstrainor


    07Lapierre wrote: »
    In that case up your budget and buy a better bike. Use the full €1000 for the bike. The most important Accessory you'll need is a descent lock (or Two)

    I'd agree here. You can pick up bits over time. You'll figure out what you need and want in the first months, and this will change with the seasons. So I'd rather spend the bike to work money on the bike.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,313 ✭✭✭07Lapierre


    You can pick up bits over time.

    Too right! don't believe all this "Cycling will save you money"! :D


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,831 ✭✭✭Annie get your Run


    +1 to the road bike suggestions, that's what the lovely folks here suggested I go for when I was buying 2 years ago and they were right (don't tell 'em though.:p). My commute is (well was but that's another story) about 20km too and I can do it in 50 mins on a 'perfect weather' day, can't remember the last time we had one of those though so average about 55 mins especially on the return home. Get the puncture proof tires, I can't remember what I have (not gator skins) but they're worth every single penny.

    It's definitely the best decision you'll ever make so enjoy.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 9,556 ✭✭✭Macy0161


    07Lapierre wrote: »
    Too right! don't believe all this "Cycling will save you money"! :D
    Depends who's asking/ who you're telling!

    +1 on dropped bars, and I'd also try and spend the full amount on the bike (or a bit more and pay the difference).

    It may also be worth looking at Cyclocross/ Gravel/ Adventure bike options that have the rack and mudguard mounts. They'll take a wider tyre and are a bit more versatile, if you don't think you'll get into road cycling, they open up some light off road options (and that may be an option for part of your commute too).


  • Moderators, Category Moderators, Arts Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 50,891 CMod ✭✭✭✭magicbastarder


    07Lapierre wrote: »
    My commute is 25k and on a god day I can do it in 45minutes. On average it takes 50-55minutes.
    i assume you're not going through the city centre!
    mine is about 19.5km, typically 45-55mins.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,313 ✭✭✭07Lapierre


    No. Thankfully I don't have to commute via the City Centre. Lucky me eh? :)


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 873 ✭✭✭gk5000


    IMHO a hybrid is best for commuting in traffic - but check both for vision, posture and brakes.

    Vision: Easier to look around when in an upright position - and see traffic
    Posture : Easier on you back, at least for an amateur than being crouched over
    Brakes: Don't have to move hands to apply fully pressure on brakes


  • Moderators, Category Moderators, Arts Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 50,891 CMod ✭✭✭✭magicbastarder


    i'll just echo what others said about mudguards - get a set of full length ones, even if you have clean clothes to change into at the far end.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 686 ✭✭✭steamsey


    The Trek Domane AL2 is the better bike assuming you like the dropper bars.

    What I don't like about the Cube are the 40mm tyres which are pretty big for commuting on roads. Cube has alu forks - they say carbon better for forks as absorb some of the bumps but who knows.

    I wouldn't buy a bike with a triple these days as it's unnecessary.

    Also note that the Cube has hydraulic brakes - AL2 has standard "racer" brakes. Hydraulic brakes typically harder for home mechanic to service but need servicing less often.

    If I was buying the Cube, I'd swap out those tyres for 25mm's.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,517 ✭✭✭VW 1


    Not wanting to hijack the OPs thread, but I'm in a similar situation where i have a 10k commute.

    Currently on a felt Z6 which after leaving it in for a service at the weekend requires some bits done on it which will add up to circa 180 to have done from the shop.

    Toying with the idea of getting a bike on the bike to work scheme as it will be available in the next few weeks through work.

    I'd be looking to spend the full 1k on a bike, probably looking to stay with a racer as I find them more comfortable than a hybrid.

    Any out of the box or standard suggestions that people get pointed towards from the experienced cyclists here?

    Had looked at a Raleigh Mustang

    https://eurocycles.com/raleigh-mustang-sport-road-bike-grey/

    and a Cannondale Synapse

    https://www.cyclesuperstore.ie/shop/pc/viewPrd.asp?idproduct=112565


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,305 ✭✭✭Mercian Pro


    gk5000 wrote: »
    IMHO a hybrid is best for commuting in traffic - but check both for vision, posture and brakes.

    Vision: Easier to look around when in an upright position - and see traffic
    Posture : Easier on you back, at least for an amateur than being crouched over
    Brakes: Don't have to move hands to apply fully pressure on brakes

    There are many bikes out there that are essentially road bikes but come with flat bars. My Cannodale Synapse Flatbar was identical to the dropped bar version other than the bars obviously. It used to annoy me having it referred to as a hybrid (disparagingly) when on sportives. It was, and still is, much more suited to commuting in traffic where you need to brake regularly and keep a good look out. I also used it for plenty of foreign trips including the Alps and the Pyrennies without any posture issues.

    My "good bike" does have drops and does allow for a lower profile in headwinds and in fast group riding. Getting back to the OP and his choice, I certainly wouldn't dismiss the flatbar bikes and the Cube with hydraulic disks and provision for mudguards would probably be my pick of the three.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 873 ✭✭✭gk5000


    There are many bikes out there that are essentially road bikes but come with flat bars. My Cannodale Synapse Flatbar was identical to the dropped bar version other than the bars obviously. It used to annoy me having it referred to as a hybrid (disparagingly) when on sportives. It was, and still is, much more suited to commuting in traffic where you need to brake regularly and keep a good look out. I also used it for plenty of foreign trips including the Alps and the Pyrennies without any posture issues.

    My "good bike" does have drops and does allow for a lower profile in headwinds and in fast group riding. Getting back to the OP and his choice, I certainly wouldn't dismiss the flatbar bikes and the Cube with hydraulic disks and provision for mudguards would probably be my pick of the three.
    Yes, I should have said "non dropped bars" are best suited to commuting imho.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,795 ✭✭✭C3PO


    gk5000 wrote: »
    Yes, I should have said "non dropped bars" are best suited to commuting imho.

    Why?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 9,556 ✭✭✭Macy0161


    Body, head, hand position and braking wouldn't be that different on the hoods on a properly fitted endurance road bike would it? I used to think I needed a flat bar commuter, as I used to struggle braking on the hoods, but a better fit eliminated that issue tbh.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 873 ✭✭✭gk5000


    C3PO wrote: »
    Why?

    I'll redo fully what I said earlier:
    IMHO "non-dropped bars" are best for commuting in traffic - but check both (dropped & non-dropped) for vision, posture and brakes.

    Vision: Easier to look around when in an upright position - and see traffic
    Posture : Easier on you back, at least for an amateur than being crouched over
    Brakes: Don't have to move hands to apply full pressure on brakes


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 689 ✭✭✭Ray Bloody Purchase


    gk5000 wrote: »
    I'll redo fully what I said earlier:
    IMHO "non-dropped bars" are best for commuting in traffic - but check both (dropped & non-dropped) for vision, posture and brakes.

    Vision: Easier to look around when in an upright position - and see traffic
    Posture : Easier on you back, at least for an amateur than being crouched over
    Brakes: Don't have to move hands to apply full pressure on brakes

    I changed from a road bike to a hybrid for my commute (12km each way). I find it to be way more comfortable and better for my posture in general.

    My viewing position is much improved too. I feel a lot more secure on the hybrid.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 30,439 ✭✭✭✭Wanderer78


    Big fan of hybrids as well, I'd take one over a road bike any day, particularly for commuting, it's a personal choice though


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,191 ✭✭✭dinneenp


    Since seeing so many people on drop down handle bars I've wondering if I should go for them but this thread may have helped me somewhat.
    Commute is 10km, mostly straight on a main country road (N 17). Besides that the odd casual spin. The posture in straight handle bars seems good to me

    Think I'll borrow a bike with drop-down handle bars from someone to finally put the debate in my head to rest.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,313 ✭✭✭07Lapierre


    dinneenp wrote: »
    Since seeing so many people on drop down handle bars I've wondering if I should go for them but this thread may have helped me somewhat.
    Commute is 10km, mostly straight on a main country road (N 17). Besides that the odd casual spin. The posture in straight handle bars seems good to me

    Think I'll borrow a bike with drop-down handle bars from someone to finally put the debate in my head to rest.

    Dropped Bars offer 3 different hand positions. Top of the bar for climbing/casual or relaxed cycling, Hoods for flat roads, drops for racing/descending or when there is a headwind.

    Flat bars only offer one"Official" position, which is fine for short trips, but being able to vary your hand position does help to alleviate numbness/strain on your hands. An upright position is also not ideal if there is a headwind.

    Might be worth considering.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 23,157 ✭✭✭✭Alanstrainor


    dinneenp wrote: »

    Think I'll borrow a bike with drop-down handle bars from someone to finally put the debate in my head to rest.

    A properly fitting bike with drop bars is pretty important, so don't be surprised if you borrow a bike and find it uncomfortable. I found it took a while to get used to drops, but now that I have, I wouldn't go back (well at least in terms of road cycling).


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,305 ✭✭✭Mercian Pro


    Macy0161 wrote: »
    Body, head, hand position and braking wouldn't be that different on the hoods on a properly fitted endurance road bike would it? I used to think I needed a flat bar commuter, as I used to struggle braking on the hoods, but a better fit eliminated that issue tbh.

    Having had both my flat bar and dropped bar bikes fitted by the same professional fitter, my position on the former is noticably more upright and less stretched than on the latter. For town cycling this is definitely an advantage but, given the OP's commute route, it may not be an issue for him.
    07Lapierre wrote: »
    Dropped Bars offer 3 different hand positions. Top of the bar for climbing/casual or relaxed cycling, Hoods for flat roads, drops for racing/descending or when there is a headwind.

    Flat bars only offer one"Official" position, which is fine for short trips, but being able to vary your hand position does help to alleviate numbness/strain on your hands. An upright position is also not ideal if there is a headwind.

    Might be worth considering.

    Most people who cycle flat bar bikes a lot get bar ends fitted that offer a good second position with a different wrist rotation. I agree that getting lower in a headwind can be problematic but it hasn't been a major issue for me on 200k+ rides. On the dropped bar bike, I normally go a bit lower by riding on the front of the hoods rather than on the drops as I find that more comfortable.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 15 Clean Sheet


    Thanks for all the comments guys (great help). I was all set for the dropped bar road bike but a few comments have me in a little doubt.
    Would the dropped bars be harder on your lower back?
    Aslo, I wouldn't have to cycle through much traffic, more or less a straight road.

    Thanks again


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,818 ✭✭✭Tigerandahalf


    If you have a flat bar get bar ends. I have them on mine and did some bike touring with it recently. The bar ends give your hands the most comfortable position. They are really handy. I have also a bike mirror on the outside of one of the bar ends. Priceless to see behind you.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,191 ✭✭✭dinneenp


    Thanks for all the comments guys (great help). I was all set for the dropped bar road bike but a few comments have me in a little doubt.
    Would the dropped bars be harder on your lower back?
    Aslo, I wouldn't have to cycle through much traffic, more or less a straight road.

    Thanks again

    I have a hybrid (only 8 gears, which I really like) with flat bars and bar ends/bull bars. I use the bar ends mainly for uphills, not really otherwise. But they're handy to have.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,305 ✭✭✭Mercian Pro


    Would the dropped bars be harder on your lower back?

    It depends a lot on your physique and how flexible you are. If you can't go anywhere near touching your toes, you may find that long periods on the drops or brake hoods can lead to discomfort not just in your lower back but in your neck and upper back. From the sound of your commute, you may spend a lot of the time with your hands on the bar tops which is fine but braking or changing gear will involve a change of hand position.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 9,760 ✭✭✭Effects


    It used to annoy me having it referred to as a hybrid (disparagingly) when on sportives.

    I've a mate who used to call my flat bar road bike a mountain bike. Thought it was heavier as a result too.

    Two years later and he's sick of his drop bars on his road bike and is getting flat bars put on.

    He didn't get it when I asked why he was converting his bike into a mountain bike.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 15 Clean Sheet


    Went for this one in the end, picking it up on Saturday:

    https://www.trekbikes.com/ie/en_IE/bikes/road-bikes/performance-road/domane/domane-al/domane-al-3/p/17497/

    Thanks for the help guys


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