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Ford 3600

  • 16-01-2018 10:47am
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 473 ✭✭


    Hi, just looking for any information on the above tractor. I need something for very light work around a 5acre smallholding, can pick one up that needs a few cosmetic bits, exhaust, cab roof, etc, but no tax book. Won't be on the road anyway but there is a registration on it. Can a book be retrieved easily? Tractor is 2.5k. Are parts readily available for these or should I steer clear. Thanks


Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 279 ✭✭discodaveirl


    Good machine alright, theres a problem with the older ford engines going pourous and leaking coolant... requires the engine being removed and could end up costing more than the tractor.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 3,239 ✭✭✭Willfarman


    Not terribly common on the 3 cylinder models. They are a tremendous little tractor.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,158 ✭✭✭jimmy G M


    Good machine alright, theres a problem with the older ford engines going pourous and leaking coolant... requires the engine being removed and could end up costing more than the tractor.

    I think those issues were mainly on the 4 cylinder models, 6600, etc.

    We had one if those 3600 35 yes ago, they were a good machine , 47 hp, better cab and lift capacity than equivalent Mf 135. Ideal for light farm tasks and usually cheaper than equivalent MF. They just put a smile on yer face.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 279 ✭✭discodaveirl


    Willfarman wrote: »
    Not terribly common on the 3 cylinder models. They are a tremendous little tractor.

    Had it on a 4000.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,722 ✭✭✭maidhc


    Had one for a while. Only half the tractor a 4600 is. The 4600 is far more powerful, better lift, better brakes and a better front axle and can hold its own in a modern farm.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 18,721 ✭✭✭✭_Brian


    maidhc wrote: »
    Had one for a while. Only half the tractor a 4600 is. The 4600 is far more powerful, better lift, better brakes and a better front axle and can hold its own in a modern farm.

    Well have him bid up to a 7610 4wd in no time


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,891 ✭✭✭Bullocks


    _Brian wrote: »
    Well have him bid up to a 7610 4wd in no time

    Sure for a bit with the price of a 7610 he would get a much fresher New Holland / Case haha


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,583 ✭✭✭Jb1989


    Bullocks wrote: »
    Sure for a bit with the price of a 7610 he would get a much fresher New Holland / Case haha

    Serious finance deals on a brand new tractor purchase, think this is the route for the op, :)


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 3,239 ✭✭✭Willfarman


    The small David brown tractors are also an option for the op. Very good value reliable machines.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,722 ✭✭✭maidhc


    Bullocks wrote: »
    Sure for a bit with the price of a 7610 he would get a much fresher New Holland / Case haha

    There isn’t much of a difference in price between the 3600 and 4600 in fairness!


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 512 ✭✭✭anthony500_1


    Have a 2000 myself, super little tractor, will carry a 200lt sprayer no bother, put out 6 bags of fertilizer in one go, good on hilly ground as it has a diff lock only down side is it won't lift silage bales, it's a real pity but horses for courses and all that, and a miser on fuel.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 559 ✭✭✭G-Man


    Tough as they come, tis half the tractor the 46 ,is but its twice the tractor the 2000 is.. Anyone that had a loader on them had strong arms and bad steering. Ground clearance not great, particulary if hitch or other drawbar gizmo is on the back, always had to remove the stub jack off all trailers.. like all small tractors that said, sometimes too low to pick up a trailer dropped by someone else. Doors were bad on them, but are surely re-engineered at this stage, front window opening remarkably tough..

    Wide mudguards inside the fritz cab- could carry a crowd around on them, but damn the noise in them from the cab vibrations.

    Hitch and any gizmo to give a drawbar reduced ground clearance more. Lift also had poor clearance, it was strong enough, but something about the geometry, and low body, meant it was poor at rowing hay, spraying, or mouldin spuds... Couldnt lift to clear the rows. Funny gap in gear ratios 1st and 2nd v.close and , too slow in 2nd, too fast in 3rd and 3rd was too close to fourth.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 18,721 ✭✭✭✭_Brian


    Op should really consider dairy, stick in a robot and work off farm.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 190 ✭✭PeterCasey


    An uncle of mine had one with a transport box my Father bought it for him he had an accident years ago in England had a brain injury they brought him home lived out his days with us. He used to have all the diesel ready in his transport box grease gun have tractors combine silage harvester serviced before the lads would come in you would here him heading off around seven in the morning.He used to pull the gang mowers in the local gaa pitch collect stuff from the creamery.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 473 ✭✭nophd08


    Thanks for all replies, much appreciated, looking like I need a few more quid for a new Holland 8260 and a robotic milking set up.... 😄.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 473 ✭✭nophd08


    Made a mistake, it's a 2600. No pickup hitch but in relatively good nick, starts first tip of the key, lift and pto ok, needs fibreglass part of the fitzmire cab, doors intact. Could do with brakes doing and rear tyres down the line. Are the brakes simple to do on these? What would 2 tyres set me back? Thanks again


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 4,457 ✭✭✭ford2600


    nophd08 wrote: »
    Made a mistake, it's a 2600. No pickup hitch but in relatively good nick, starts first tip of the key, lift and pto ok, needs fibreglass part of the fitzmire cab, doors intact. Could do with brakes doing and rear tyres down the line. Are the brakes simple to do on these? What would 2 tyres set me back? Thanks again

    Welcome to the club baby!


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 190 ✭✭PeterCasey


    If you are having second taoughts about buying it I might be interested I would have to see it first.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 473 ✭✭nophd08


    Ok lads, quick update, bought the tractor and I'm in the middle of doing brakes. Needed new shoes and I replaced the drum on one side, only because I got a handy 2nd hand one. All brake linkages were in need of a degrease and general clean up. Last jobs on brakes is to free up the right side pedal. Very stiff, all grease has dried up so I'm in the process of removing it only it is reluctant to move off the shaft. Anyone familiar with it? If I try to jack the pedal off the left side one it looks like the whole shaft will come. Any help is greatly appreciated.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,434 ✭✭✭have2flushtwice


    nophd08 wrote: »
    Ok lads, quick update, bought the tractor and I'm in the middle of doing brakes. Needed new shoes and I replaced the drum on one side, only because I got a handy 2nd hand one. All brake linkages were in need of a degrease and general clean up. Last jobs on brakes is to free up the right side pedal. Very stiff, all grease has dried up so I'm in the process of removing it only it is reluctant to move off the shaft. Anyone familiar with it? If I try to jack the pedal off the left side one it looks like the whole shaft will come. Any help is greatly appreciated.
    Wd40 overnight. Water hose handy and redden it with a blowrorch. It will burn off the grease, redden the outer part and start jacking it slowly tipping with a hammer .
    Don't cool it with the water. The hose is in case you have a bit of excess flame...


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 473 ✭✭nophd08


    Wd40 overnight. Water hose handy and redden it with a blowrorch. It will burn off the grease, redden the outer part and start jacking it slowly tipping with a hammer .
    Don't cool it with the water. The hose is in case you have a bit of excess flame...
    Thanks for reply, I've already had the oxy torch on it, wd 40 etc and because the inner pedal is free it's tending to push that pedal against the casing when jacking and whole shaft wants to come out of casing if that makes sense. Maybe I didn't give it enough of a reddening. I'll give it another lash later


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 473 ✭✭nophd08


    Got it sorted, didn't need to take it fully off, reddened it, moved it up and down a good few times, load of wd40, removed and cleaned grease nipple and regreased. It's now brand new as is all linkages and handbrake.


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