Yet another TV Bracket question...

Inviere

Hi folks, here's the situation:

1) TV (32" Lcd) and bracket to be hung in apartment bedroom (tv bracket with swing arm, something along these lines - https://www.amazon.co.uk/Invision%C2%AE-Ultra-Swivel-Bracket-Mount/dp/B010G6972O/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1515253175&sr=8-4&keywords=tv+brackets)

2) Wall is plasterboard (.5" thick), then there's a gap of 1.25" inches, & then there's some type of concrete/brick wall. There is another apartment on the other side of this brick wall, though it's a different block, so not the usual security mesh/baton setup.

3) There are batons, roughly 16" apart...they're some kind of metal though, & don't seem like a hard metal.

How do I do it?

From looking online, there seems to be a few common solutions.

1) Use Snaptoggle type anchors to mount the tv bracket directly onto the plasterboard. The reviews of these snaptoggles suggest they're VERY good, but I'm not very confident relying on them just with plasterboard to hold up a swivel bracket. You're basically relying on the plasterboard alone to hold the weight of a bracket with a moving arm, and a tv.

2) Cut out a section of the plasterboard, and affix to the brick wall a section of 1.25" ply via some strong metal anchors. Re-fix the plasterboard cut out back to the wall. and mount bracket through plasterboard, and into the ply. This method seems to be the best, though I've never done it before & would need some tips!

3) Fix ply to outside of plasterboard, paint it to match the wall colour, and mount it so it catches two of the batons. I don't doubt this method when dealing with wooden batons, but metal? I've no idea how strong they are or how to drill through them.



I've taken a socket off the wall, near the floor. This allowed me to have a look inside the wall. I've also removed the socket housing here, to get a better look.



You can see the stone/dividing wall here, and the metal baton. I've no idea how wide those metal batons are, as I can only see this side of it. It 'feels' fairly soft/pliable though.



This is a view straight up the wall, back of plasterboard to the bottom of the picture, and brick side to the top. Can't see very far up, so not very helpful.



This is looking to the right, you can see the next baton in the distance.

Any help would be appreciated folks

Four Phucs Ache

Those are metal stud frames.About 0.3mm thick and are a quick/alternative to timber stud frames. They are strong as part of a complete stud wall when fixed plasterboard is in place, but not for holding up heavy fixtures.

You can see the 2 red rawlplugs behind the socket so you now know you can drill 50 to 80mm into the concrete which is probably 150mm + anyway as a precast wall.

Me , I wouldn't trust the plasterboard fixings because 1, I've never used them and 2, I prefer a solid fixing even if it means more work.

You also know the distance now from the back of the plasterboard to the wall.So I would :

Remove sufficient square of plasterboard.
Fix correct dept of ply with whatever number of layers needed to reach back of plasterboard.
Replace square of plasterboard and tidy the joint.
Fix the bracket.

Get an adjustable bracket so that if you want to fit a 50" you don't have to go at this again.

sky6

You're over thinking it.

Just get a long 8mm drill bit. You know the distance to the Blockwork is 40mm approx. So just the bracket on the Wall where to want to place it. Then mark off 100 mm on the Drill bit by using a wrap of pvc tape. Then drill 2, 3, or 4 Holes
and uses 8 x 100mm Nail Anchors to fix the Bracket.

The Nail Anchors and the Blockwork will actually hold the weight not the Plasterboard.

Inviere

Four Phucs Ache wrote: »

So I would :

Remove sufficient square of plasterboard.
Fix correct dept of ply with whatever number of layers needed to reach back of plasterboard.
Replace square of plasterboard and tidy the joint.
Fix the bracket.

^^ Thank you very very much for this, I'll come back to you on this shortly!

sky6 wrote: »

You're over thinking it.

Just get a long 8mm drill bit. You know the distance to the Blockwork is 40mm approx. So just the bracket on the Wall where to want to place it. Then mark off 100 mm on the Drill bit by using a wrap of pvc tape. Then drill 2, 3, or 4 Holes
and uses 8 x 100mm Nail Anchors to fix the Bracket.

The Nail Anchors and the Blockwork will actually hold the weight not the Plasterboard.

Interesting, many thanks. Given the hollow gap between the plasterboard & the brick wall though, would I not be limited in how much I can tighten the bracket? I.e, the tighter the bracket is, would the plasterboard not be being forced towards the brick wall? Also, when the holes are drilled through the plasterboard and into the brick wall, how would I be able to place the anchors into the brick & get them flush, given all I'd have is an 8mm hole in the plasterboard?

bonzodog2

Inviere wrote: »

Also, when the holes are drilled through the plasterboard and into the brick wall, how would I be able to place the anchors into the brick & get them flush, given all I'd have is an 8mm hole in the plasterboard?

Something that fits inside the anchor and has a wider part that will act as a punch would allow you to drive it in flush. Maybe there are products sold especially for this, but maybe a suitably sized 1/4" drive socket might do.

DublinDilbert

Inviere wrote: »

^^ Thank you very very much for this, I'll come back to you on this shortly!



Interesting, many thanks. Given the hollow gap between the plasterboard & the brick wall though, would I not be limited in how much I can tighten the bracket? I.e, the tighter the bracket is, would the plasterboard not be being forced towards the brick wall? Also, when the holes are drilled through the plasterboard and into the brick wall, how would I be able to place the anchors into the brick & get them flush, given all I'd have is an 8mm hole in the plasterboard?

If your worried about crushing the plaster board as you tighten the bracket you could do a few things. Get some sort of thin metal tubing / sleeve / pipe and cut off a number of little pieces. Put these pieces over the fixing screw/bolts so they will sit between the bracket and the brick so not much of the load is on the plaster board.

Another option is to drill a couple of small holes in the plaster board and put some expanding foam in where the bracket is going. When it goes off it will give a solid base for when you tighten the bracket into the brick.

sky6

Inviere wrote: »

^^ Thank you very very much for this, I'll come back to you on this shortly!



Interesting, many thanks. Given the hollow gap between the plasterboard & the brick wall though, would I not be limited in how much I can tighten the bracket? I.e, the tighter the bracket is, would the plasterboard not be being forced towards the brick wall? Also, when the holes are drilled through the plasterboard and into the brick wall, how would I be able to place the anchors into the brick & get them flush, given all I'd have is an 8mm hole in the plasterboard?

The Hole is 8mm and the Anchor is 8mm you take the screw out of the Anchor and push the plastic part into the Hole Flush with the plaster board. Then position the Bracket and put the Screws through the Bracket and into the plastic anchor in the Holes. Then just Tap with a hammer until the Bracket is flush back to the Wall. Flush. Job Done. The Anchors will carry the weight and the bracket will spread the load over the Area.

landcrzr

As dublin Dilbert said, just get a bit of 1/2" copper pipe and make some ferrules that you run your wall fixings through. Cut them just proud of the depth of cavity plus board.
Get some good quality wall fixings too, don't use a hammer in type.
If you just snug the TV bracket against the plasterboard with nothing behind it, once loaded, the bottom of the bracket will push the board in and may damage it.

Inviere

landcrzr wrote: »

As dublin Dilbert said, just get a bit of 1/2" copper pipe and make some ferrules that you run your wall fixings through. Cut them just proud of the depth of cavity plus board.

I think this is the way I'll tackle it, cheers (& to you DD).

Get some good quality wall fixings too, don't use a hammer in type.

Can you recommend a particular type?

If you just snug the TV bracket against the plasterboard with nothing behind it, once loaded, the bottom of the bracket will push the board in and may damage it.

That's what I'm afraid of. I keep imagining a 32" tv being 90 degrees to the wall it's mounted on, it comes out a fair bit like. I don't want the plasterboard being any factor in it, so the 1/2" copper tubing idea sounds to be the job.

landcrzr

Try the likes of woodies for 8x100 frame fixings. You'll need to drill an 8mm hole for these about 75mm deep. (Into the concrete, that is)
Mark out the plasterboard first, drill the 8mm hole through the lot using the fixing screw to check the depth of the hole.
Then get a wood drill bit and drill a 15mm hole through vthe plasterboard only.
Check the depth from face of the board to the concrete wall and cut the 1/2" pipe about 2 mm longer.
Push the plugs into the hole by hand, if they're hard to get in you probably just need to clean the dust out.
Put the first screw in with the pipe sleeved over it, but only put the screw in a bit so you'll be able to get the others started.
Have fun...

Maggie Marie

I put a bracket up before with no more nails. It’s a glue type material. No need for drilling or screwing.

budhabob

Maggie Marie wrote: »

I put a bracket up before with no more nails. It’s a glue type material. No need for drilling or screwing.

For a TV Bracket? I wouldn't be recommending this. While it has certain loadings specified on them its dependent on so much, paint adhesion to the wall etc. I certainly wouldn't be relying on it for a TV.

Inviere

landcrzr wrote: »

Try the likes of woodies for 8x100 frame fixings. You'll need to drill an 8mm hole for these about 75mm deep. (Into the concrete, that is)
Mark out the plasterboard first, drill the 8mm hole through the lot using the fixing screw to check the depth of the hole.
Then get a wood drill bit and drill a 15mm hole through vthe plasterboard only.
Check the depth from face of the board to the concrete wall and cut the 1/2" pipe about 2 mm longer.
Push the plugs into the hole by hand, if they're hard to get in you probably just need to clean the dust out.
Put the first screw in with the pipe sleeved over it, but only put the screw in a bit so you'll be able to get the others started.
Have fun...

Thanks a mill!

Maggie Marie wrote: »

I put a bracket up before with no more nails. It’s a glue type material. No need for drilling or screwing.

Fook that

Inviere

I've been acquiring the few bits I need for this over the last few days, drill bits, tv bracket, conduit, etc. The issue I'm having is getting some 1/2" copper piping, well, no issue finding it, the problem is finding it in shorter lengths than the standard 8ft or whatever it comes in. Is there anywhere that sells shorter lengths of it that anyone knows of?

listermint

Copper... Sure any type pipe will do if your just trying to keep the plasterboard away from wall.

Plastic pipe anything really. Don't waste cash buying a length of copper

Inviere

listermint wrote: »

Copper... Sure any type pipe will do if your just trying to keep the plasterboard away from wall.

Plastic pipe anything really. Don't waste cash buying a length of copper

Oh? Cool, not sure what its called but that mustard colour flexible plastic stuff will do the job?

Inviere

Found a place in Crumlin that does copper pipe in 1 meter sections, that'll do nicely.

dodzy

Maggie Marie wrote: »

I put a bracket up before with no more nails. It’s a glue type material. No need for drilling or screwing.

Take a bow. Prize for worst advice on boards, ever.

Inviere

Job is oxo. Thanks a mill for the advice folks, got it all done today. Had to nip out and get a proper drill though, the wall wet itself laughing at my 20 year old 500w Black & Decker! Been meaning to get something decent for ages, so was the perfect time. Picked up a Macallister 1200 SDS jobbie, not sure how reputable the brand is but it cut through the wall like butter! The stand is solid as a rock on the wall now, complete with copper ferrules