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Pre-skimmed plasterboard?

  • 03-01-2018 6:11pm
    #1
    Seanachai
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,547 ✭✭✭


    Is there such a thing as plasterboard that does not need to be skimmed, in that it is already finished on one side?


Comments

  • #2
    antiskeptic
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 9,555 ✭✭✭antiskeptic


    Seanachai wrote: »
    Is there such a thing as plasterboard that does not need to be skimmed, in that it is already finished on one side?

    It is finished (in that it's ready to paint). It can be installed without skimming - but if more than one board is used, the joints need to be taped and filled - there's a depression along the long edge of the board for that purpose.


  • #3
    Idioteque
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 633 ✭✭✭Idioteque


    ↑↑↑
    As Above but if doing that make sure you buy 'Tapered Edge' Plasterboard, otherwise that won't work (The other type is for skimming).

    Also, if painting, buy a cheap tub of primer and water if down as per instructions as the bare plasterboard really soaks up the first coat of paint so you don't want to go having to put on loads of coats of more expensive paint.

    Finally, it's not an easy job if doing a full room and you've never done before (Taping and filling that is). If you're up for the DIY and have time to do it right you'll get better as you work through it. Takes a while to get the knack so that you can't see the joints after painting when light hits from certain angles. (Be prepared for lots of sanding).


  • #4
    dok_golf
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,090 ✭✭✭dok_golf


    https://tinyurl.com/y8u55ggn
    https://tinyurl.com/y9wjv7bq

    Not the cheapest way of doing it but will save you a lot of time and hassle

    Also, to prime the surface, buy a bucket of cheap white matt, water it down by 15 - 20% and apply. Cheaper than buying a primer


  • #5
    mickdw
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 23,688 ✭✭✭✭mickdw


    Its actually easy enough to do the joints as a diy effort. Get the right stuff and take 3 or 4 hits widening the joint width until completely feathered out. Sand to finish.
    The corners are the hardest imo but if you are coving, you can save alot of effort at ceiling junction.


  • #6
    GreeBo
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 27,370 ✭✭✭✭GreeBo


    mickdw wrote: »
    Its actually easy enough to do the joints as a diy effort. Get the right stuff and take 3 or 4 hits widening the joint width until completely feathered out. Sand to finish.
    The corners are the hardest imo but if you are coving, you can save alot of effort at ceiling junction.
    And if coving, for the love of God get the foam stuff and don't bother with the plaster kind.


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  • #7
    mickdw
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 23,688 ✭✭✭✭mickdw


    GreeBo wrote: »
    And if coving, for the love of God get the foam stuff and don't bother with the plaster kind.

    Id be of the opposite opinion.


  • #8
    GreeBo
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 27,370 ✭✭✭✭GreeBo


    mickdw wrote: »
    Id be of the opposite opinion.

    Without derailing the thread, I've found the lightweight foam stuff much easier, cheaper and faster to install.
    Can do full 3m lengths with one person and no danger of anything breaking.

    The other stuff is heavy, can't be done easily in full lengths and certainly not by one person and requires more adhesive and often pinning to fix them.

    Once finished and painted they are indistinguishable imo.


  • #9
    mickdw
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 23,688 ✭✭✭✭mickdw


    GreeBo wrote: »
    Without derailing the thread, I've found the lightweight foam stuff much easier, cheaper and faster to install.
    Can do full 3m lengths with one person and no danger of anything breaking.

    The other stuff is heavy, can't be done easily in full lengths and certainly not by one person and requires more adhesive and often pinning to fix them.

    Once finished and painted they are indistinguishable imo.
    Ya id generally use a helper with 3m length of plasterboard type but other than that, they are handy. I use a continuous bead of adhesive instead of dabs and never pin them.


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