pressure vessel mounting

slipstream

We have a pressurized system installed at our house in North Dublin by our builders plumber 2.5 years ago.

The pressure vessel (24l intervarem) beside the pump has recently started to droop. It is not leaking (yet!).

I guess this should be supported with a wall bracket/straps.

Clearly I need someone do this work. However, (to avoid a bodged job) I want ensure the appropriate supports are used.

What would you guys use? Also, any ideas how much labor would be involved in mounting it properly?

Cheers!

jca

That needs to be replaced immediately before something snaps and your house is flooded. The internal diaphragm is ruptured and it's full of water. If there's an automatic filling valve on the system turn it off, if a pipe splits you won't have water entering the system adding to your misery. A quick check for a ruptured vessel is to press the Schrader valve briefly, only air should come out not water.

slipstream

jca wrote: »

That needs to be replaced immediately before something snaps and your house is flooded. The internal diaphragm is ruptured and it's full of water. If there's an automatic filling valve on the system turn it off, if a pipe splits you won't have water entering the system adding to your misery. A quick check for a ruptured vessel is to press the Schrader valve briefly, only air should come out not water.

I'll check the schrader valve when I get home.

I know one of the reasons for the droop is that the wall is built from lightweight blocks which require special fixings to take any weight but standard wall plugs were used.

I don't think I've see anything that look like an automatic fill valve (the attached pictures shows more pipework).

Thanks for your advice.

aujopimur

Is that not a fresh water vessel on the plumbing side?.

slipstream

aujopimur wrote: »

Is that not a fresh water vessel on the plumbing side?.

I dunno about plumbing but (as far as I know) water comes down the pipe on the LHS from a CWST above this room into the pump on the floor which is connected to the pressure vessel which in turn feeds cold taps and the boiler.

K.Flyer

Here's a nice set up...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZBX0rAP_OAk

jca

slipstream wrote: »

I'll check the schrader valve when I get home.

I know one of the reasons for the droop is that the wall is built from lightweight blocks which require special fixings to take any weight but standard wall plugs were used.

I don't think I've see anything that look like an automatic fill valve (the attached pictures shows more pipework).

Thanks for your advice.

Just having a look at your pics on the computer, I was on my phone earlier. The metal braided pipe feeding into the pressure gauge is a filling loop much better than an automatic filling valve. Give the air valve a quick press to see if it's ruptured, don't press too long as you don't want to lose pressure if its ok.

slipstream

jca wrote: »

Just having a look at your pics on the computer, I was on my phone earlier. The metal braided pipe feeding into the pressure gauge is a filling loop much better than an automatic filling valve. Give the air valve a quick press to see if it's ruptured, don't press too long as you don't want to lose pressure if its ok.

No air or water came out when I press the Schrader valve in fully.

How would it lose pressure? Would that point to the vessel needing to be replaced?

jca

slipstream wrote: »

No air or water came out when I press the Schrader valve in fully.

How would it lose pressure? Would that point to the vessel needing to be replaced?

They lose pressure over time through natural leakage. To repressurise it accurately there needs to be no water pressure around it. It's a hopeful sign that there's no water emerging from the Schrader valve. What pressure is showing on the gauge?

slipstream

jca wrote: »

They lose pressure over time through natural leakage. To repressurise it accurately there needs to be no water pressure around it. It's a hopeful sign that there's no water emerging from the Schrader valve. What pressure is showing on the gauge?

0.8 bar on the boiler guage, 1.3 bar when the boiler turns on.

rightjob!

thats on the cold water pumped side not the heating,i dont think that the vessel is ruptered looks more like someone put plugs into a plasterboard wall.i would get it fixed and supported properly.moving it to a location that has solid fixing would be better.

slipstream

rightjob! wrote: »

thats on the cold water pumped side not the heating,i dont think that the vessel is ruptered looks more like someone put plugs into a plasterboard wall.i would get it fixed and supported properly.moving it to a location that has solid fixing would be better.

cheers, any ideas on where to source support brackets etc. in dublin?

jca

rightjob! wrote: »

thats on the cold water pumped side not the heating,i dont think that the vessel is ruptered looks more like someone put plugs into a plasterboard wall.i would get it fixed and supported properly.moving it to a location that has solid fixing would be better.

The copper going into it doesn't look great either. Surely it should have pressure even when resting. Would pressing the Schrader valve when the pump is running tell whether it was ruptured or not?

rightjob!

slipstream wrote: »

cheers, any ideas on where to source support brackets etc. in dublin?

You could get decent plasterboard fixings but you will have to relocate that vessel a few inches up/left or right because its pulled away at the holes its in now.
Or you can fix a timber baton across the wall from stud to stud
The piece of copper going into it doesnt look in great shape either so replace that while you have it off.

rightjob!

jca wrote: »

The copper going into it doesn't look great either. Surely it should have pressure even when resting. Would pressing the Schrader valve when the pump is running tell whether it was ruptured or not?

Yes it should always have pressure in it,if you press it and water comes out then its ruptured.charge it back up and should be fine