Upgrade from Sigma to an EF-S Canon 55-250 mm is STM

cortinaG

Hi folks,
I'm looking to upgrade my Sigma f4/5.6 70-300 mm APO lens.

Obviously a 70-200 f4 L would be the best option, but costwise it would likely be non IS, and used, from MPB (£360.00).

My question is this, the 55-250, at £155.00, seems to be a great lens BUT is it good enough to go to the bother of upgrading from the Sigma?

I use a 100d crop sensor camera and pretty much fail to get decent shots with the Sigma, a few, but not consistently.
Thanks, Gerry.

ED E

Is this a "do everything" lens or something specifically you're shooting? If the former they all seem a bit tight considering the 1.6 crop factor.

cortinaG

Do everything ED E.
It's just for extra reach, I have the 10-18 mm, 18-55 mm and the 50 mm prime already,

CabanSail

Can you elaborate on or show some examples of "fail to get decent shots" as that may help to analyse if it's the lens or other issues.

cortinaG

Photos, for the most part aren't sharp with the Sigma, I would almost call them hazy. Normally the 1st step in editing is to up the contrast to get some clarity.
I don't shoot over 250 mm and always try to use the 2 second timer when handheld. It is quiet good at the very low end of the focal range though.



I hope i have this resized properly, 800px largest side. Shot taken at 214mm, iso 800, 1/800 sec at f9.




Above is a more extreme example which HAS already been edited, from Mullaghmore across Donegal bay to Killybegs. This one is 300mm, iso 100, 1/500 sec at f8.

Below was yesterday at 70 mm, with flash, iso 200, 1/200 f8.

wersal gummage

cortinaG wrote: »

always try to use the 2 second timer when handheld.

Why?

cortinaG

wersal gummage wrote: »

Why?

I would have thought that this was fairly obvious.
To avoid camera shake when pressing the shutter,
particularly with a long lens.

wersal gummage

cortinaG wrote: »

wersal gummage wrote: »

Why?

I would have thought that this was fairly obvious.
To avoid camera shake when pressing the shutter,
particularly with a long lens.

Ok. Fairly obvious with a tripod but not obvious handheld to me, as you are now holding the camera "steady" for 2 plus seconds....

cortinaG

wersal gummage wrote: »

Ok. Fairly obvious with a tripod but not obvious handheld to me, as you are now holding the camera "steady" for 2 plus seconds....

.not necessarily Ed, you press the shutter, which may move the camera somewhat, then you have 2 seconds to 'steady' again before shot is taken.
More important perhaps handheld than on a tripod.
Just a thing I do to avoid camera shake, obviously not going to work in a high speed sport shot.

Chavways

Take a look at the dehaze tool in Lightroom before you go and buy a new lens. I had the same lens as you up until recently but have moved away from Canon so sold it. Below is an example of an image I took a few months back with the 55-250mm. Dehaze is an amazing tool in Lightroom that helps to bump up contract massively.

cortinaG

Chavways wrote: »

Take a look at the dehaze tool in Lightroom before you go and buy a new lens. I had the same lens as you up until recently but have moved away from Canon so sold it. Below is an example of an image I took a few months back with the 55-250mm. Dehaze is an amazing tool in Lightroom that helps to bump up contract massively.

Thanks Chavways, I like that.

I just tried out dehaze, it makes a big difference indeed.
These are quick edits, I'll put more time into it later. Excuse my merging...

Chavways

Like magic!

ED E

Just me or is that give a very similar effect to using a polarizing filter?