Advertisement
If you have a new account but are having problems posting or verifying your account, please email us on hello@boards.ie for help. Thanks :)
Hello all! Please ensure that you are posting a new thread or question in the appropriate forum. The Feedback forum is overwhelmed with questions that are having to be moved elsewhere. If you need help to verify your account contact hello@boards.ie
Hi there,
There is an issue with role permissions that is being worked on at the moment.
If you are having trouble with access or permissions on regional forums please post here to get access: https://www.boards.ie/discussion/2058365403/you-do-not-have-permission-for-that#latest

Air Lock in Clyde Climatic 30 Oil Burner

  • 20-11-2017 2:39pm
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 220 ✭✭


    I'm trying to clear an air lock in a Air Lock in Clyde Climatic 30 oil burner, I've no manual and cant find anything on the internet.

    From looking at other systems, I cannot find the nut to relieve the air, I've attached diagrams.

    I was thinking do i need to buy a burner bleed valve and screw that into the plug covered by the 1/4" nut?

    https://www.woodies.ie/pro-heat-boiler-bleed-valve-1087752

    Can help appreciated


Comments

  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 6,378 Mod ✭✭✭✭Wearb


    Are you burning diesel?

    Please follow site and charter rules. "Resistance is futile"



  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 6,378 Mod ✭✭✭✭Wearb


    Judging by the way the angles have been damages on the plug, someone has been bleeding it regularly. Anyway, its the damaged nut beneath the slotted pressure adjusting screw.

    Those bleed valves are unnecessary, though might be handy if regular bleeding is required (which is very bad for the pump-though it doesn't seem to have shortened that one's life-).

    Please follow site and charter rules. "Resistance is futile"



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 220 ✭✭jacknife


    Wearb wrote: »
    Judging by the way the angles have been damages on the plug, someone has been bleeding it regularly. Anyway, its the damaged nut beneath the slotted pressure adjusting screw.

    Those bleed valves are unnecessary, though might be handy if regular bleeding is required (which is very bad for the pump-though it doesn't seem to have shortened that one's life-).

    Thanks, I was thinking that, i removed that plug there does not seem to be a nut inside it to turn


  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 6,378 Mod ✭✭✭✭Wearb


    jacknife wrote: »
    Thanks, I was thinking that, i removed that plug
    there does not seem to be a nut inside it to turn

    There isn't. That is the bleed point. You don't remove it, just loosen it about 1 turn.

    Please follow site and charter rules. "Resistance is futile"



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 220 ✭✭jacknife


    Wearb wrote: »
    There isn't. That is the bleed point. You don't remove it, just loosen it about 1 turn.

    thanks, as you can tell i have not got the hands to bless myself


  • Advertisement
  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 6,378 Mod ✭✭✭✭Wearb


    Maybe a good service would do a lot of good.

    Please follow site and charter rules. "Resistance is futile"



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,775 ✭✭✭JamesM


    Wearb wrote: »
    Are you burning diesel?

    I don't think that the question about diesel was answered. If it's kerosene, the pressure is probably too high - the screw looks way too far in.
    Jim.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 220 ✭✭jacknife


    JamesM wrote: »
    I don't think that the question about diesel was answered. If it's kerosene, the pressure is probably too high - the screw looks way too far in.
    Jim.

    sorry its kerosene

    I take it i hold the button on the front of the white box while turning the valve?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,842 ✭✭✭Billy Bunting


    jacknife wrote: »
    sorry its kerosene

    I take it i hold the button on the front of the white box while turning the valve?

    Have you attempted bleeding via the screw? It does look to be screwed in quite further than normal for Kero, adjustment of this screw required an oil pressure gauge.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,775 ✭✭✭JamesM


    jacknife wrote: »
    sorry its kerosene

    I take it i hold the button on the front of the white box while turning the valve?

    Not sure what you mean - but NO.

    As Billy said, If you have turned the screw above the 1/4" nut, you will have changed the oil pressure and this can cause the boiler to soot up.


  • Advertisement
  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 220 ✭✭jacknife


    Thanks everyone, the problem was not an air lock after all, some low life stole the heating oil out of our tank.

    I've read the threads on heating oil theft, many warn against putting a lock on the oil tank as they cut the pipe or drill the tank, i'm going to build an enclosure round the tank


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,974 ✭✭✭jimf


    ive even heard of stories where they have heated a length of pipe to get at tanks in cages


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,842 ✭✭✭Billy Bunting


    jimf wrote: »
    ive even heard of stories where they have heated a length of pipe to get at tanks in cages

    Great idea!! Thanks 😉


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,974 ✭✭✭jimf


    Great idea!! Thanks ��









    your welcome


Advertisement