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Rear drum puller hire Galway?

  • 18-11-2017 4:00pm
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 15,960 ✭✭✭✭


    I have a rear drum that's stuck, probably rusted on - the wheel turns freely.
    Unfortunately it doesn't have the two screw hole so I can't use the insert a bolt trick. I have spent hours applying penetrating spray & walloping it.

    Does anyone know of a hire in Galway that might have a puller ?


Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 884 ✭✭✭JamBur


    Discodog wrote: »
    I have a rear drum that's stuck, probably rusted on - the wheel turns freely.
    Unfortunately it doesn't have the two screw hole so I can't use the insert a bolt trick. I have spent hours applying penetrating spray & walloping it.

    Does anyone know of a hire in Galway that might have a puller ?

    https://youtu.be/y6jpNC6emOQ

    Is there any movement at all? Watch the full video, shows how to solve if the brakes are holding it on


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 15,960 ✭✭✭✭Discodog


    JamBur wrote: »
    https://youtu.be/y6jpNC6emOQ

    Is there any movement at all? Watch the full video, shows how to solve if the brakes are holding it on

    None & the brakes aren't holding it -it turns freely. It has to be rust.


  • Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 1,648 ✭✭✭Autochange


    The drum turns but wont pull off. Am i right?
    Have you released the handbrake cable from the mechanism? Renault Clios used have this problem where the shoes would over time wear a groove into the drums which would develop a lip not allowing the drum to slide off.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 15,960 ✭✭✭✭Discodog


    Autochange wrote: »
    The drum turns but wont pull off. Am i right?
    Have you released the handbrake cable from the mechanism? Renault Clios used have this problem where the shoes would over time wear a groove into the drums which would develop a lip not allowing the drum to slide off.

    I don't think that the handbrake is the problem as there is no give whatsoever even when I hammer the drum. I am hoping that the penetrating oil will soak in over night. The drum rotates very freely.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 354 ✭✭Bandito909


    Discodog wrote: »
    I don't think that the handbrake is the problem as there is no give whatsoever even when I hammer the drum. I am hoping that the penetrating oil will soak in over night. The drum rotates very freely.

    You really gotta bate the drum with a 5lb lump hammer. A few taps of a little hammer won't do it. You've most likely a big lip on the inside of the drums. Good wallop with the drums and two big flat head screw drivers between the drum and backing plate and prise it away. I wouldn't be spraying penetrating oil in there, it will contaminate your shoes.

    What car is it by the way?


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 15,960 ✭✭✭✭Discodog


    Bandito909 wrote: »
    You really gotta bate the drum with a 5lb lump hammer. A few taps of a little hammer won't do it. You've most likely a big lip on the inside of the drums. Good wallop with the drums and two big flat head screw drivers between the drum and backing plate and prise it away. I wouldn't be spraying penetrating oil in there, it will contaminate your shoes.

    What car is it by the way?

    Oh it's been getting the big hammer :D

    It's not the lip, there is literally no give. I can't prise between the backplate because it will bend it. I have put a cold chisel on the lip, from behind & hit it with the hammer. The drum is rusted to the hub around the wheel studs hence using penetrating oil. The shoes & cylinder are going to be replaced.

    It's an antique 95 Starlet :pac:


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,522 ✭✭✭martyc5674


    Discodog wrote: »
    None & the brakes aren't holding it -it turns freely. It has to be rust.

    There is probably a lip in the drum from wear... and the shoes are stuck behind it. That vid is good info, only I'd be walloping with a bigger hammer and way more effort than that. If it's rusted to hub heat should it but you've to really cook it and belt the drum near the edges for leverage.
    Marty.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,522 ✭✭✭martyc5674


    Starlet has tapered rear bearings..
    Undo the bearing and take the whole lot off hub and all. Sort it out then on the bench.
    Marty.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,286 ✭✭✭Stoolbend


    Is the drum and hub not a single unit on these?

    As said above remove the bearing nut and the whole lot should slide off.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 354 ✭✭Bandito909




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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 15,960 ✭✭✭✭Discodog


    Bandito909 wrote: »

    That would be easy as it has securing screw holes.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,423 ✭✭✭Avns1s


    As has been mentioned a few times, the drum and the hub is all the one on these.
    Here is what the replacement looks like http://www.mister-auto.co.uk/en/brake-drum/toyota-starlet-ep8-np8-1-0-54hp_v15991_g123.html

    No amount of hammering or pulling will get it off (without severe damage).

    To remove it....
    Remove the grease cover in the centre of the hub.
    Remove the split pin.
    Undo the nut in the Centre and remove the hub/drum.
    If it has a lip, you may still have to use the hammer to get it over the brake shoes.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 208 ✭✭MAYOMICK


    With the centre nut off it should slide out.If its still difficult put the wheel back on and use this for leverage.You might bring the shoes with you but it will come out.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 15,960 ✭✭✭✭Discodog


    Thanks for the help. I was really beginning to wonder.


  • Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 1,648 ✭✭✭Autochange


    Avns1s wrote: »
    As has been mentioned a few times, the drum and the hub is all the one on these.
    Here is what the replacement looks like http://www.mister-auto.co.uk/en/brake-drum/toyota-starlet-ep8-np8-1-0-54hp_v15991_g123.html

    No amount of hammering or pulling will get it off (without severe damage).

    To remove it....
    Remove the grease cover in the centre of the hub.
    Remove the split pin.
    Undo the nut in the Centre and remove the hub/drum.
    If it has a lip, you may still have to use the hammer to get it over the brake shoes.

    Surely taking the hub nut was always the first step. Taken as a given


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 15,960 ✭✭✭✭Discodog


    Autochange wrote: »
    Surely taking the hub nut was always the first step. Taken as a given

    On reflection yes but my penance was kneeling in the rain for two hours :pac:

    My other car doesn't have holding screws & the hub isn't part of the drum .


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,522 ✭✭✭martyc5674


    Discodog wrote: »
    On reflection yes but my penance was kneeling in the rain for two hours :pac:

    My other car doesn't have holding screws & the hub isn't part of the drum .

    Easy think to overlook if you haven't seen them like that before.
    Anyway... did u get it off??!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 15,960 ✭✭✭✭Discodog


    martyc5674 wrote: »
    Easy think to overlook if you haven't seen them like that before.
    Anyway... did u get it off??!

    Yes about 10 seconds after undoing the nut :D


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 884 ✭✭✭JamBur


    Discodog wrote: »
    Yes about 10 seconds after undoing the nut :D

    Everyone has a moment (or moments) like that. All you can do is laugh!


  • Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 1,648 ✭✭✭Autochange


    Discodog wrote: »
    On reflection yes but my penance was kneeling in the rain for two hours :pac:

    My other car doesn't have holding screws & the hub isn't part of the drum .

    Fair call!


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 15,960 ✭✭✭✭Discodog


    I don't sound like the guy who replaced cylinder head valves, in his driveway, in January :)


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