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DIY cement injection

  • 24-07-2017 11:21am
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,292 ✭✭✭


    I have some walls that are quite hollow in the middle and much of the mortar has withered away so I was thinking of fabricating a contraption that is much like a sealed bucket with a pipe going almost to the bottom and attaching a 1-2" hose for injecting runny cement into those hard to reach places

    I'd connect this to the compressor and let in a bit of air as needed. Would it work? Was thinking of using an old gas cylinder for the bottom part and cutting a bit of sheet metal for the lid.


Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,017 ✭✭✭Four Phucs Ache


    I have some walls that are quite hollow in the middle and much of the mortar has withered away so I was thinking of fabricating a contraption that is much like a sealed bucket with a pipe going almost to the bottom and attaching a 1-2" hose for injecting runny cement into those hard to reach places

    I'd connect this to the compressor and let in a bit of air as needed. Would it work? Was thinking of using an old gas cylinder for the bottom part and cutting a bit of sheet metal for the lid.


    If you are talking about pointing the wall a hawk and trowel will be much faster, and lighter and leave the trowel hand free to place and catch the mortar.

    If you are thinking of filling cavity blocks or large voids you would be filling this thing as often as the blocks.

    I can see your idea though In theory.

    It would weigh a bloody ton !


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,376 ✭✭✭jack of all


    There is a commercially available tool, like a large syringe/ mastic gun that can be used to grout paving or repoint brickwork.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 9,555 ✭✭✭antiskeptic


    I have some walls that are quite hollow in the middle and much of the mortar has withered away so I was thinking of fabricating a contraption that is much like a sealed bucket with a pipe going almost to the bottom and attaching a 1-2" hose for injecting runny cement into those hard to reach places

    I'd connect this to the compressor and let in a bit of air as needed. Would it work? Was thinking of using an old gas cylinder for the bottom part and cutting a bit of sheet metal for the lid.

    What do you mean by quite hollow. You don't sound like you mean pointing

    (The best way to do DIY pointing by the way, is to get some gunnable mortar (larsen do it). Mix it up then fill a piping bag obtainable from your local bakery store. Use an 8mm nozzle to fill 10-12mm joints. You squeeze it in a bit proud of the joint easily and quickly (do a few horizontal runs, then do the verticals), wait for it to go off a bit (say 30mins) then run something like the rounded handle of a paint brush along it, pressing hard and squeezing the mortar excess out - most of it falls off. Then stiff paint brush to remove the remainder off the brick, it comes off cleanly without dirtying the brick.

    Really quick and really clean. You can watch youtube vids on it to get the jist.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 1,356 ✭✭✭Right2Write


    I have some walls that are quite hollow in the middle and much of the mortar has withered away ...

    ????????????? If these are concrete blocks walls, they may be made of 9" cavity blocks which are meant to be hollow. Or as a cavity wall with typically 2 x 4" walls tied together with metal straps. The cavity is meant to be there in the latter case, to stop moisture crossing from outside wall to inside of dwelling.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 9,764 ✭✭✭my3cents


    But if they are old stone walls of a cottage or outbuilding then they won't have a cavity.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,292 ✭✭✭Ubbquittious


    ????????????? If these are concrete blocks walls, they may be made of 9" cavity blocks which are meant to be hollow. Or as a cavity wall with typically 2 x 4" walls tied together with metal straps. The cavity is meant to be there in the latter case, to stop moisture crossing from outside wall to inside of dwelling.

    Its a stone wall with a lot of rubble and small stones in the middle. I have been repointing it bit by bit the old fashioned way and taking out small sections and rebuilding them. When I started at it twas quite close to being destroyed completely by ivy and even if I fill all the joints on the outside it will still be quite wobbly given the amount of loose stuff rolling around inside it


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 1,356 ✭✭✭Right2Write


    Its a stone wall with a lot of rubble and small stones in the middle. I have been repointing it bit by bit the old fashioned way and taking out small sections and rebuilding them. When I started at it twas quite close to being destroyed completely by ivy and even if I fill all the joints on the outside it will still be quite wobbly given the amount of loose stuff rolling around inside it

    We have walls like this, I know from knocking out holes for windows etc., that they were built with granite stones inside and out and any voids between filled with rubble and lime mortar etc. Overall they'd be very stable, if your walls are wobbly, maybe better to knock and rebuild?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,292 ✭✭✭Ubbquittious


    We have walls like this, I know from knocking out holes for windows etc., that they were built with granite stones inside and out and any voids between filled with rubble and lime mortar etc. Overall they'd be very stable, if your walls are wobbly, maybe better to knock and rebuild?

    I did consider it but I'm trying to reduce the amount of work not create more :)


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