Products to spot clean between valeting

gem898

Hi All,

As many of the posts I've read looking for advice. I've gotten myself a shiny new car. It's white so keeping it clean is top of mind.

I'm happy to get it valeted inside and out every 6-8 weeks but I would like to have a few products on hand for spot cleaning - especially for the murder scene of insects after my first blast on the motorway.

Happy to order online or instore based on recommendations. I have a Lidl insect remover spray but I'm half afraid to use it.

Would you recommend any products or am I just better off with hot water and a microfibre cloth?

ronnie3585

Are you in a position to wash the car yourself?

If you invest in some decent gear now it'll save you the cost of having the car valeted every 6-8 weeks and moreover it'll prevent the inevitable damage that the vast majority of valeters will inflict on your shiny new car. I've yet to come across one in this country that I'd trust with my car.

In the absence of applying any kind or wax or sealant, a regular wash using the two bucket method would still keep your car in good nick.

To start, I'd recommend getting two buckets, a good shampoo without any gloss enhancers (such as Bilt Hamber Auto Wash), a microfiber wash mitt and a microfiber drying towel. You can get all of the above here - http://www.detailingshed.com/.

Curran

Sound advice above - avoid the valets; very rare to come across one who will wash the car in a safe way as to not inflict some wash damage (those nasty swirls you see on cars paintwork)

Keeping on top of it is key; so washing it once every week or two, with the right products will mean you'll have no need to seek out a valet. Every few months, a decontamination of the paintwork will keep it on a really high standard; its not difficult to do, and a valet wont offer these services (usually)...and dont worry, we can see you right on that front too.

The minimum kit to wash the car safely is exactly as Ronnie says - 2 Buckets, good quality wash mitt and drying towel, shampoo and wheel cleaner...and perhaps a spray on protection product (quick and easy to use)...sorted, for the first few months

gem898

Hi Guys,

Thanks so much for your responses and apologies for the delay in getting back to you. I was off getting my car dirty on a trip across the country.

Anyway, it was filthy today so popped along to Halfords to grab a quick kit to knock some of the dust and bugs off her. I only spent €15 on two buckets, a mitt, a rake of microfibre cloths and car shampoo. I didn't want to spend too much as I'm sure higher quality stuff can be gotten at a better price online than instore and I wasn't sure how feasible it is to DIY car wash when I live in an apartment block with no access to a hose.

I did my best but I'm sure I could do better. I noticed so many little nicks and teeny scratches that are driving me mad now that I know they're there. There is probably little I can do about them. Its probably just general wear and tear on a 3 and half year old car.

So after my first voyage into cleaning my car myself, I have a couple of questions.

- Are all microfibre cloths equal? Is the towel much different to a cloth?
- Should I get the car all sudsy while washing it? (It didn't really get sudsy with the mitt and car wash I used.)
- Any other tips for someone that doesn't have access to a hose?
- What does tar look like on the car? Is it tiny black specs? Where am I most likely to spot it?
- Jet washes - I'm thinking just to get the bulk of the dirt off with the power washer and then wash as I did today. The rinsing part is the hardest part when you don't have access to a hose. Thoughts?
- Should I just work on one panel at a time? Say the rear, the back side door, the front side door, the front etc etc.
- Does anyone do lessons in cleaning and detailing?

Thanks again

Curran

gem898 wrote: »

Hi Guys,
- Are all microfibre cloths equal? Is the towel much different to a cloth?
- Should I get the car all sudsy while washing it? (It didn't really get sudsy with the mitt and car wash I used.)
- Any other tips for someone that doesn't have access to a hose?
- What does tar look like on the car? Is it tiny black specs? Where am I most likely to spot it?
- Jet washes - I'm thinking just to get the bulk of the dirt off with the power washer and then wash as I did today. The rinsing part is the hardest part when you don't have access to a hose. Thoughts?
- Should I just work on one panel at a time? Say the rear, the back side door, the front side door, the front etc etc.
- Does anyone do lessons in cleaning and detailing?

Thanks again

- MF Cloths - no definitely not! There are vast differences in MF quality - they are rated by Grams per Sq Meter or labelled as GSM - personally, I wouldnt put anything less than about 400 GSM near paintwork, and higher if you have softer paints such as that on Jap cars.

- Suds / no access to hose - Have no access to a powerwasher / hose is a difficult one. The best advice would be to bring the car to a jet wash, and using only water (not their foam) power wash off as much of the heavy dirt as possible. Then drive the car home and wash it with Two Buckets, good shampoo and wash mitt. Better yet, bring a pump sprayer, and with a suitable product in it (Bilt Hamber Auto Foam is very effective through a pump sprayer) apply it onto the car, and then power wash off with the jet wash...this will mean the heavy dirt that will swirl that paintwork will be lifted. You wont get much suds through washing, some shampoos dont product much suds - its not a measure of the shampoo, in fact, its slickness / lubrication that a shampoo offers is measure by... less resistance for the wash mitt over the surface

- Tar- yes, black spots can be tar. Mostly black spots on the paintwork is tar, on wheels it can be tar or iron contamination (hot particles from brake pads embedded into the surface). Iron contamination can embed in the paintwork, but it tends to be microscopic, but it is there. A fallout remover is needed to remove iron particle. Never wipe tar deposits; tar contains dirt and grit, and wiping it would result in swirling of the paintwork; good tar removers are spray on, allow dwell, and wash off...though much more difficult without a hose.

- Jet Washes - yes, as mentioned above. Note; do not use their foams; very strong Traffic Film Removers (TFRs) which over time / repeated use, degrade plastics and rubbers, remove any waxes / sealants on the paintwork. Pre Wash in a pump sprayer and jet wash with just water. Wash the car at home with Two Bucket method.

- One panel at a time - yes, as the Two Bucket Method outlines, wash a panel or two (depending on how bad it is) and rinse out the mitt. Then move to the next panel. Start at the top, working your way down. Roof / Windows / Bonnet / Bootlid / Top of Doors / Bottom of Doors / Sills

- Training - yes, there's a few places that do the occasional detailing training day