Preparing walks for drylining

Murray13

Hi all,
I have a bungalow with solid block construction.
I've decided to batten the walls and attach drylining to the exterior walls, 72mm insulated plaster board.
I have filled all cracks inches wall, removed the skirting board, plaster board from ceiling is gone, electrical fitting have been removed and now I need to deal with the wall paper.
The question I have is so I need to remove the wall paper before attaching battons or is it ok to leave it?
The same question goes for doing the internal walls. Do I need to remove wall paper if I am going to add battons and plasterboard?
I hope you can help!

Calahonda52

Ideally yes for wpaper
yes.
why d/l interior walls?
wrt the ceiling pb being gone you need to address the fire regs iff the walls are slabbed first

Murray13

The internal walls are in pretty bad shape, cosmetic problems really. old electrical sockets and light switches have been removed lots of cracked and missing plaster and a lot of wallpaper.
We need to rewire the whole house aswell.
The plan for the internal walks is to fix battons, run electrics between nations and fit new selectively fittings to plasterboard. Seems it will be easier to dryline

Dudda

As it's a bungalow and you've removed the plasterboard from the ceiling you should really take the opportunity to fit an airtight layer to the underside of the joists and then use small counter battens (eg 50x25mm) to create a service void for cables to run. The airtight layer will be taped to the existing walls and will be hidden behind the insulated plasterboard. Do this before the electrician arrives to rewire the house. It will keep your house warmer as it stops draughts. People think it's just insulation that keeps a house warm but if you've a well insulated house and the door open all the heat goes out. Heat rises and escapes around all the light fittings in the ceilings. It can make a huge difference in an old house.

murphaph

Dudda wrote: »

As it's a bungalow and you've removed the plasterboard from the ceiling you should really take the opportunity to fit an airtight layer to the underside of the joists and then use small counter battens (eg 50x25mm) to create a service void for cables to run. The airtight layer will be taped to the existing walls and will be hidden behind the insulated plasterboard. Do this before the electrician arrives to rewire the house. It will keep your house warmer as it stops draughts. People think it's just insulation that keeps a house warm but if you've a well insulated house and the door open all the heat goes out. Heat rises and escapes around all the light fittings in the ceilings. It can make a huge difference in an old house.

Some good ideas but make sure the electrician knows that the membrane is for air tightness!

Believe it or not our neighbours built a bungalow with such a membrane and their idiot electrician burst holes all over if for their spots and anything else. It was so bad they decided to make a warm roof out of it.

Our timber frame superstructure also uses a membrane and we have these counter battens over the membrane in the walls too (running horizontally) so we can and have added sockets by simply boring a 68mm hole and pushing three core from an existing socket inside the installation void to the new hole(s) and wiring up. Very handy, same in the ceilings.