HKC alarm install

crazy_kenny

Hi,

I'm installing my house alarm and would like some advice on zone identification and wiring of devices.

Currently I have 9 zone identified:

Zone 1: Main entrance
Devices: 1 magnetic contact and 1 pir in hallway

Zone 2: 2 windows
Devices: 2 inertia with contacts

Zone 3: 2 windows
Devices: 2 inertia with contacts

Zone 4: 2 small windows, 1 large window with 2 openings
Devices: 2 inertia with contact, 1 inertia, 2 magnetic contact

Zone 5: French double doors
Devices: 1 inertia with contact

Zone 6: 2 large windows with 2 openings and 1 set of French doors
Devices: 2 inertia, 4 magnetic contacts, 1 inertia with contact

Zone 7: 1 large window with 2 openings
Devices: 1 inertia, 2 magnetic contacts

Zone 8: Back door
Devices: 1 inertia with contact

Zone 9: 1 large window with 2 openings
Devices: 1 inertia, 2 magnetic contacts

Does this look like a reasonable zone layout?

Also on the wiring side, is it ok to wire inertia and magnetic contacts in series or is it better to use different zones even though devices are in same room?

The panel I bought is the HKC 1070 hybrid panel.


Thanks in advance.

KoolKid

That looks fairly well split up. If cabling allows it would be nice to split up the sensors and contacts. This would require an expander to give you more zones.

db

Your Zone 1 has a magnetic contact and a PIR. Would it not be better to split these so you can set the alarm just on the perimeter while you are in the house?

KoolKid

I read that as being separate zones, sorry.
PiRs should always have their zone either way.

crazy_kenny

KoolKid wrote: »

That looks fairly well split up. If cabling allows it would be nice to split up the sensors and contacts. This would require an expander to give you more zones.

8 core cable is used throughout. Does that mean say zone 6 which is a sunroom would have 2 separate zones, one for inertia's and the other for window/door contacts?

crazy_kenny

db wrote: »

Your Zone 1 has a magnetic contact and a PIR. Would it not be better to split these so you can set the alarm just on the perimeter while you are in the house?

Good idea, thanks. The house is prewired for perimeter alarm installation. No pir's were wired for. Is it a good idea to add in some pir's or can I leave them out altogether?

KoolKid

Yes you could split that zone using the 8 core cable.
You should definitely have at least one PiR on any system.

altor

crazy_kenny wrote: »

Good idea, thanks. The house is prewired for perimeter alarm installation. No pir's were wired for. Is it a good idea to add in some pir's or can I leave them out altogether?

You can leave them out but they are recommended to be used as a back up to any system.
If its a 10/70 you would have the option to add wire free devices, wire free PIR in your case if its not wired.

crazy_kenny

Zone 5 and zone 7 are both in the kitchen/dining area. Would it be a bad idea to have just 1 zone and using the last 2 zones to split the magnetic contacts onto. This would eliminate the need for the expander unit.

KoolKid

I would leave them as is.Splitting the zones up by room rather than sensor/contact. There is not a lot on either zone so it won't make fault finding much harder.

altor

crazy_kenny wrote: »

Zone 5 and zone 7 are both in the kitchen/dining area. Would it be a bad idea to have just 1 zone and using the last 2 zones to split the magnetic contacts onto. This would eliminate the need for the expander unit.

You could also use point I'd sensors as opposed to global sensors. You could have 10 points on zones 5,6, That's 20 sensors that can be identified by each device on separate points. Also if you did do that you could come off the upstairs loop and add a point I'd motion for the landing. Much cheaper than adding a wire free motion.

kub

altor wrote: »

You could also use point I'd sensors as opposed to global sensors. You could have 10 points on zones 5,6, That's 20 sensors that can be identified by each device on separate points. Also if you did do that you could come off the upstairs loop and add a point I'd motion for the landing. Much cheaper than adding a wire free motion.

You can't beat HKC for flexibility

crazy_kenny

So I start

crazy_kenny

So I started installing the devices and initial wiring yesterday. Very slow and tedious work so far.

A lot of the cables to the windows are cut so short that I have to connect cable to even reach the first device.

Do you need to put 2 resistors in the magnetic contacts if it is the only device on the zone?

Also can someone put up a drawing for an inertia and 2 magnetic contacts in series to see if I'm on track. Currently I'm using 3 cores black red and blue. Blue is looped through the n/c on the magnetic contacts with black and red joined on spare terminals in each. I'm a little unsure about the inertias as I'm finding loads of different wiring configurations.

Thanks

KoolKid

crazy_kenny wrote: »

So I started installing the devices and initial wiring yesterday. Very slow and tedious work so far.

A lot of the cables to the windows are cut so short that I have to connect cable to even reach the first device.

Do you need to put 2 resistors in the magnetic contacts if it is the only device on the zone?

If its the only device yes. One in series & one parallel across the contact.
See disgram below

crazy_kenny wrote: »

Also can someone put up a drawing for an inertia and 2 magnetic contacts in series to see if I'm on track. Currently I'm using 3 cores black red and blue. Blue is looped through the n/c on the magnetic contacts with black and red joined on spare terminals in each. I'm a little unsure about the inertias as I'm finding loads of different wiring configurations.

Thanks

From the panel wire blues in series through all the tampers.
Wire the reds in series through contacts & sensors & wire black to extend the second resistor back to the panel into the same terminal as the red.

crazy_kenny

The magnetic contacts I'm using only has a reed switch, no tamper contacts. Will this matter when using the resistors?

Can I join the red and black at first device rather than at panel as shown in your diagram?

KoolKid

crazy_kenny wrote: »

The magnetic contacts I'm using only has a reed switch, no tamper contacts. Will this matter when using the resistors?

No, just connect all the tampers together.

crazy_kenny wrote: »

Can I join the red and black at first device rather than at panel as shown in your diagram?

Yes you can, just be sure all alarm contacts are within the 4k7 parallel resistor.

crazy_kenny

Are devices with a single device like a magnetic contact configured to dual eol or single eol on keypad? All zones are wired with 2 resistors on last device.

KoolKid

If there are 2 resistors the zone hardware should be configured for Duel EOL.

crazy_kenny

Where does the tamper for the internal sounder go in panel?

KoolKid

Into AUX tamper or in series with the external bell tamper is best.

altor

crazy_kenny wrote: »

Where does the tamper for the internal sounder go in panel?

Can be put into a zone tamper or in series with the tamper return off the external bell.

crazy_kenny

Just powered up the system this evening. I seem to have one fault with the external bell tamper. I broke the yellow cable going to the external bell in the panel and put the tamper from the internal bell in series. Anyone come across this before? Also is there anyway to disable the internal/external bell before I try removing the panel cover?

altor

crazy_kenny wrote: »

Just powered up the system this evening. I seem to have one fault with the external bell tamper. I broke the yellow cable going to the external bell in the panel and put the tamper from the internal bell in series. Anyone come across this before? Also is there anyway to disable the internal/external bell before I try removing the panel cover?

What type bell have you installed?
Have you only one resistor 4k7 installed in the bell?

crazy_kenny

altor wrote: »

What type bell have you installed?
Have you only one resistor 4k7 installed in the bell?

Thanks for quick reply. It's the hkc external sounder with strobe. It had a resistor in the bell box and the panel had one across the TR and BHC connections.

altor

crazy_kenny wrote: »

Thanks for quick reply. It's the hkc external sounder with strobe. It had a resistor in the bell box and the panel had one across the TR and BHC connections.

You should have one in the bell only.

KoolKid

I'd say it was closed off with the one in the panel because the external bell tamper was giving trouble

crazy_kenny

altor wrote: »

You should have one in the bell only.

Ok thanks I'll take it out in the morning. One more thing, the engineer code 4567 does not seem to be working. The user code 1111 is working ok.

altor

crazy_kenny wrote: »

Ok thanks I'll take it out in the morning. One more thing, the engineer code 4567 does not seem to be working. The user code 1111 is working ok.

Strange, was it a new panel?
04567 authorized by 1111

crazy_kenny

KoolKid wrote: »

I'd say it was closed off with the one in the panel because the external bell tamper was giving trouble

It's a brand new system I'm installing.

altor

crazy_kenny wrote: »

It's a brand new system I'm installing.

The new system should have a resistor in place.

crazy_kenny

altor wrote: »

Strange, was it a new panel?
04567 authorized by 1111

Yeah it's brand new 1070 panel. When you say "authorised by 1111" can you tell me how to do that. Thanks.

altor

crazy_kenny wrote: »

Yeah it's brand new 1070 panel. When you say "authorised by 1111" can you tell me how to do that. Thanks.

When you put in 04567 at the keypad the system will say authorized by, this is your user code, by default 1111.

KoolKid

Ahh OK.
So with just one resistor in series are you getting ext bell tamper?
It should close around 4k7

crazy_kenny

That's for all the replies so far folks. They have being really helpful.

Currently I have the alarm working however I have an issue with one of the zones. The zone has 3 windows in series. The magnetic contacts are working on the walk test but the inertia sensors are not working. I adjusted the zone gross & pulse values to 1 but still nothing. The zone is set to dual end of line also. Any ideas?

I also set up a rf keyfob. I can arm the system and use the panic button but what are the rest of the buttons for.

Thanks in advance.

altor

crazy_kenny wrote: »

That's for all the replies so far folks. They have being really helpful.

Currently I have the alarm working however I have an issue with one of the zones. The zone has 3 windows in series. The magnetic contacts are working on the walk test but the inertia sensors are not working. I adjusted the zone gross & pulse values to 1 but still nothing. The zone is set to dual end of line also. Any ideas?

I also set up a rf keyfob. I can arm the system and use the panic button but what are the rest of the buttons for.

Thanks in advance.

Have you the contact and the shock in series on the same zone?

The keyfobs have the ability to be set up for code unset.
You can set your partset A or B from the keyfob also.
The options for the Keyfob are in the RF device options/keyfob options.

crazy_kenny

altor wrote: »

Have you the contact and the shock in series on the same zone?

The keyfobs have the ability to be set up for code unset.
You can set your partset A or B from the keyfob also.
The options for the Keyfob are in the RF device options/keyfob options.

Yes they are on the same zone.

altor

crazy_kenny wrote: »

Yes they are on the same zone.

Can you post a picture of the connections in the sensors?

crazy_kenny

altor wrote: »

Can you post a picture of the connections in the sensors?

I got it working. Instead of just joining the black cable in the sensors, I broke it through the sensor contacts.

KoolKid

crazy_kenny wrote: »

I got it working. Instead of just joining the black cable in the sensors, I broke it through the sensor contacts.

That would do it.:)

altor

crazy_kenny wrote: »

I got it working. Instead of just joining the black cable in the sensors, I broke it through the sensor contacts.

Brilliant, glad you got it sorted.

horse7

Am trying to replace an old horizon panel that was pulled out of friends house.The panel is dead and I have a HKC 16/120 panel which I'm trying to install for him. The cables all return to the upstairs hotpress. None of them are identified. I can use an oscillator to identify the zones back to the hotpress. I'm not sure how to identify the internal buzzer/alarm, and the external siren/bell alarm. On the new HKC ,I have wired in the keypad, and I have s/c each zone 1 to 8,and same for tamper 1 to 8. When I power up the panel,the keypad is showing green light for power, orange light for fault,and red light for alarm. What should cause these orange and red lights to go on. I think it may have something to do with the external alarm. The red light will go out when I enter into engineering mode. Any help please.

KoolKid

What faults are showing in engineer mode?
If you only have 2 cables left identify the internal with the oscillator and the other will be the external.You may need to change the resistor on the tamper return here for the external bell.

horse7

Ext bell tamper

KoolKid

That will clear once the external bell is wired with a 4k7 resistor in series with the tamper return.

horse7

So the tamper return from the external bell needs a resistor in series. Any idea how many wires should be coming back to the panel from the external bell and where they should terminate on the panel. Also where would I buy such a resistor. Should there be one in the old external bell box that was installed with the horizon panel.

KoolKid

There may be one in the new panel. Not sure what value the old one might be.
You are probably going to need to get to the bell box and take a look.

horse7

Thanks,will wire up my zones first,and then attempt the bell box. How many wires should there be from the external alarm back to the panel, I see external bell terminals on the panel beside Sab terminal.

KoolKid

It depends on the bell used. 5 or 6 normally.

horse7

Does that mean I will have 5 or 6 wires in the panel to terminate for the external bell?

KoolKid

Yes 5 or 6 cores from the external bell cable.
Can you tell us or show us what type of external bell you have?
That would help us guide you on the connections between the bell & the panel.