new sv650s chain

frozenfrozen

I need a bit of hand holding for this

2003 sv650s restricted to 35kw, currently have a totally stretched non-o-ring chain, it has done maybe 8k since it was put on july last year so OK going for a cheap crap chain?
Need to buy something good enough quality but seeing wildly different prices for chains. some 150 quid chain only and some 70 euro that come with sprockets.

I'm going to stick with 520 chain; and go stainless with o ring or x ring but after that I just don't know what to get and do I get endless or open and what kind of riveting stuff should I get or should I bring it to someone to put it on and pay them rather than buying the tool myself etc.. or does anyone have 100' reels I could buy links from which could be cheaper


Its been hard to keep my current chain clean. sitting down beside the bike with a tooth brush and sprayer of kerosene before gear oil brushed on then chain wax, only for it to be wrecked looking after a couple days. and I'd hate to ruin a 100 euro chain in 10k kms

it would hardly be worth me getting a scottoiler?

also then what sprockets to go with, my front and rear are in good condition but would have to replace them anyway

sorry for the long post short summary is: sv650s what chain and sprocket set thanks

zubair

Am sure there's loads on here who do it themselves and can help you but for 200 bucks in cotters they do the chain and sprockets. Easy mode.

Richard tea

No harm in buying the tool and learning to fit the chain yourself. I bought this one a while back and used it fine. https://www.louis-moto.co.uk/artikel/craft-meyer-chain-breaker-and-riveter-for-d-i-d/10002556?list=176713171&filter_article_number=10002556

As for buying I would just search ebay http://www.ebay.ie/itm/SUZUKI-SV650-S-1999-2006-DID-X-RING-CHAIN-AND-SPROCKET-KIT-X-Ring-/351410936027?hash=item51d1b958db:m:m0zYRLEELbgh_F03D5-UADg

Im not saying get this exact chain/sprocket set its just an example. Im not sure of your bike spec. Try for an X-ring chain anyway.

As for cleaning and maintaining the chain I have recently discovered the best solution (for me). I have used many methods including the Grease ninja but none really suit me. What I do now is collect all the left over oil from a service and use that to lube the chain. I apply is using a silicone pastry brush. I sh!t you not its the best method so far.

zubair

Oh, maintenance. Clean with WD40 and use Wurth chainwax to lube if the scottoiler is empty.

Fiskar

frozenfrozen wrote: »

I need a bit of hand holding for this

ng the tool myself etc.. or does anyone have 100' reels I could buy links from which could be cheaper



it would hardly be worth me getting a scottoiler?

also then what sprockets to go with, my front and rear are in good condition but would have to replace them anyway

sorry for the long post short summary is: sv650s what chain and sprocket set thanks

Have a Scottoiler and it works very well. I get over 20K miles out of my gold chain (O ring). I still clean the chain but not half as much

Best service is up North for chain and sprockets, all 3 items used cost £200

frozenfrozen

thanks lads for all the replies, seems like I can't go too wrong. especially with how little power the bike has anyway.

I am not really near somewhere like cotters but at the moment I like the idea of getting the tools to do it myself, it's not going to be my last chain ever so would be good to be able to do it myself

I think a scottoiler would be good I will keep by eye out for a deal on one, I'm sure its worth its weight in gold if doing big miles but I'm not really doing that many at all so I won't rush out to get it

I'll try the used engine oil tip when I run out of this gear oil which I brush on at the moment like you richard tea but I'll have to get a brush with soft ends. with an o ring / x ring chain I've read it can damage the rubber otherwise so I'll look at getting a silicone brush like you have

I am not sure I like my wurth chain wax, I end up with loads of dust being stuck to the chain. I could be doing it wrong but I go out for a ride to get the chain hot, then get home spray it down with kerosene and all the dirt flows out of the links, I brush it all over while spraying and then do the gear oil wait a while and then spray all over and in the links with the wurth chain wax and leave it dry. 2 days later chain looks like it has never been cleaned in its life and the bike is covered in red dust from the bits of surface rust flying off the chain.

CJhaughey

From my experience DID chains last the best, O or X ring. I usually get 2 front sprockets to one rear sprocket before the whole lot needs replacing. Twins are harder on chains than IL 4 cylinder machines and big singles are the worst.
Scott oilers are good but pricey for what they are. Tutoro are quite reasonable imho. Louis have the best priced DID c&s kits that I have found yet.

Wonda-Boy

Without doubt DID chain and JT sprockets.

SeamusG97

frozenfrozen wrote: »

thanks lads for all the replies, seems like I can't go too wrong. especially with how little power the bike has anyway.

I am not really near somewhere like cotters but at the moment I like the idea of getting the tools to do it myself, it's not going to be my last chain ever so would be good to be able to do it myself

I think a scottoiler would be good I will keep by eye out for a deal on one, I'm sure its worth its weight in gold if doing big miles but I'm not really doing that many at all so I won't rush out to get it

I'll try the used engine oil tip when I run out of this gear oil which I brush on at the moment like you richard tea but I'll have to get a brush with soft ends. with an o ring / x ring chain I've read it can damage the rubber otherwise so I'll look at getting a silicone brush like you have

I am not sure I like my wurth chain wax, I end up with loads of dust being stuck to the chain. I could be doing it wrong but I go out for a ride to get the chain hot, then get home spray it down with kerosene and all the dirt flows out of the links, I brush it all over while spraying and then do the gear oil wait a while and then spray all over and in the links with the wurth chain wax and leave it dry. 2 days later chain looks like it has never been cleaned in its life and the bike is covered in red dust from the bits of surface rust flying off the chain.

I've a touring scottoiler for the past 15k that I bought secondhand on eBay. Fitted it the same time as a new chain and sprockets. Needed to adjust the chain just twice in that time - it keeps the chain really clean and lubed so no cleaning or other maintenance needed.

zubair

For such an ocd cleaning process I'm surprised there's rust. Still it happens.

Personally I think you're overdoing it. No need to get the chain hot, although it's often recommended it cools by the time you're ready to lube anyway. Get a chain cleaning brush and spin the wheel cleaning all sides then scrub for 2 minutes and wipe with a rag, apply wax or oil (no need for both). Allow to soak and then a quick wipe of the excess.

The wurth wax is great imo, no fling and lasts ages, only noticed crud collecting after longer periods but it cleans off easy enough.

frozenfrozen

SeamusG97 wrote: »

I've a touring scottoiler for the past 15k that I bought secondhand on eBay. Fitted it the same time as a new chain and sprockets. Needed to adjust the chain just twice in that time - it keeps the chain really clean and lubed so no cleaning or other maintenance needed.

ill keep an eye out for a second hand one

zubair wrote: »

For such an ocd cleaning process I'm surprised there's rust. Still it happens.

Personally I think you're overdoing it. No need to get the chain hot, although it's often recommended it cools by the time you're ready to lube anyway. Get a chain cleaning brush and spin the wheel cleaning all sides then scrub for 2 minutes and wipe with a rag, apply wax or oil (no need for both). Allow to soak and then a quick wipe of the excess.

The wurth wax is great imo, no fling and lasts ages, only noticed crud collecting after longer periods but it cleans off easy enough.

I think it could be just my chain is really poor quality but I feel like the wurth wax makes the chain sticky and dust clings on, maybe I'm not wiping enough of the excess off. I find the chain does cool off by the time the kerosene is being sprayed on anyway yeah. It just normally happens that way that I'll clean it after being out for a little spin anyway

galwaytt

....I'm going to fit one of these to the SO's SV on the not too distant future https://www.tutorochainoiler.com/

Simpler than a Scotoiler.

Wonda-Boy

Yeah but AFAIK you have to manually turn it on and off, bet your balls you are gonna forget sometimes and have it leaking while parked up. Its cheap for a reason, I also seen somewhere in a bike magazine a new oiler that sits on the handle bars and looks like a round master cylinder. And all you need to do is turn the lid 360 degrees once and its leaks a pre set amount down the tube over a period of time....getting very good reviews.

frozenfrozen

What about those ones that let out oil when you hit a bump

SeamusG97

frozenfrozen wrote: »

What about those ones that let out oil when you hit a bump

Standard on any British built bike in the seventies. The engine?

zubair

SeamusG97 wrote: »

Standard on any British built bike in the seventies. The engine?

When it's not leaking oil, that's when you know you've run out.

frozenfrozen

haha


but I am talking about https://www.tutorochainoiler.com/

only thing is they are taking the piss with the price. Used to be 40 pounds sterling, now the same price as a scottoiler

Wonda-Boy

Ahh right, I remembered the name (tutoro) the 1st one they made was purely manual obviously they have expanded the range. I would go with the scottoiler if its the same price. But its very good that if indeed as it says you dont have to connect the unit to the engine or electrical system at all. Makes the install very simple as the scotoiler is messy installing.

frozenfrozen

yeah it looks alright and might not be as fussy as a scottoiler for what oil you put in it?

but at the same price as the scottoiler I think I'd still go with the scottoiler I think

I'll keep an eye out and see if there are good deals done on either of them

just going to order a chain and sprocket set tomorrow anyway

should I go for the hollow pins or solid pins for the link? comes down to using the little rivet press vs the whale tool you smack with a hammer. again doesn't really matter for this bike but for the future is there much of a difference