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Questions before buying a Polytunnel

  • 02-05-2017 11:04am
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 276 ✭✭


    Hi all
    I am hoping to invest in a Polytunnel this year. It has been on the wish list for a long time!I hope to grow fruit and veg in it, and also start seeds for my flower garden in it
    Hoping to buy a fairly large one, maybe 11ft wide X 32ft long



    * Was wondering if the ground should be dug prior to it being erected?
    * Do you use raised beds in it?
    * Does one need an irrigation system?
    * Is it best to have 1 or 2 doors?
    * Is there a particular time of year that would be best to erect it?

    Can anyone give me any pointers/recommendations/ideas that would be helpful to me at this stage


    thanks so much


Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 19 seamagu


    Hi,

    I didn't dig the ground before installing mine. Just make sure the ground is flat.
    I use raised beds in it.
    I have an overhead sprinkler system but also just go in with a hose and water the plants directly
    I have a door either end. On Hot days I open them, just to let some air in and to avoid moulds growing
    I think I put mine up in April. As far as I know it is better to put them up in hot weather than in cold. As you can stretch the plastic better.

    If you want to have a look at my poly tunnel check out my blog:
    www.tunneldad.wordpress.com

    Also I have some photos up on twitter @PolyTunnelDad

    Best of luck with your polytunnel :-)


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 173 ✭✭tsuzmir


    My 2 cents:
    * I didn't but it will  be easier if you do
    * Yes - best to manage like that
    * No, but that's handy. I wouldn't get sprinklers - a lot of plants prefer not to get leaves wet (learned it the hard way)
    * Go for 2 doors - you want very good ventilation when 'heatwave' comes + it gives you more freedom to move around
    * As early in a year as you can, so you can grow more; not too late for this year if you act quickly


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 14,166 ✭✭✭✭Zzippy


    Regarding digging before you put it up - absolutely. Try digging when it's 30 degrees and humid inside!

    I have raised beds in mine surrounded by gravel paths - this will hopefully deter slugs and snails a bit. Hanging baskets and guttering can also be used to maximise growing space.

    Water from below at soil level, keep foliage dry if possible, especially tomato plants. I just use a hose but am considering a drip irrigation hose/timer setup.

    Two doors are essential - one door on a calm sunny day will mean no air movement. On a windy day you can close the door facing the wind and leave the other open.

    Polytunnel can be put up any time, warmer weather means the plastic stretches better so you get a tighter fit over the hoops. Don't do it on a windy day!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 755 ✭✭✭Hocus Focus


    Double door on the end facing the prevailing wind, and an opening at the other end with a fine mesh netting. Use raised beds, along the sides and in the centre, made up to a size that will allow you to have two aisles approximately 2ft 3ins wide, so that you can wheel a barrow up each side. Don't use scaffold boards to make the beds, they won't last very long,use treated timber, (3/4" x 7 is good). Make them two planks high. Fill the perimeter beds first, before installing the centre ones, then when you fill the centre ones you will have to make a ramp with a scaffold board and a box so that you can empty your barrow into the bed. Leave space at both ends for turning your barrow and it's a good idea to leave space for a potting bench and perhaps a chair or two.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 794 ✭✭✭Berberis


    Heres a few pictures of my Tunnel Its 18ft wide by 48ft. I put raised beds at the sides and a wider raised bed in the middle with a small path either side of the middle bed.
    I put double doors at either end and I put some semi permanent netting at one end to allow ventilation and a netting curtain at the other end which I use for access/egress. I also have a low gate with mesh to stop the rabbits getting in when I have the doors open all day/night throughout the summer.
    With your tunnel 11ft feet wide you would proball be best with one path down the middle and beds to sides of the path.
    Happy growing
    oLuCk6.jpg
    G0icVT.jpg
    KGwivE.jpg


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  • Closed Accounts Posts: 3,362 ✭✭✭rolion


    Berberis wrote: »
    Heres a few pictures of my Tunnel Its 18ft wide by 48ft. I put raised beds at the sides and a wider raised bed in the middle with a small path either side of the middle bed.
    I put double doors at either end and I put some semi permanent netting at one end to allow ventilation and a netting curtain at the other end which I use for access/egress. I also have a low gate with mesh to stop the rabbits getting in when I have the doors open all day/night throughout the summer.
    With your tunnel 11ft feet wide you would proball be best with one path down the middle and beds to sides of the path.
    Happy growing

    Very nice...enjoy it !
    However,i advice you to pay more attention to vegetable per square meter ratio. That space is very limited AND every square cm will need to return some value, back to you !

    Try to use it so you can rotate and have fresh veggies all the time ... IE that this month you plant radish,grow & eat it then next month you plant again. In meantime,in another small space, plant seeds that will grow to be ready for the soil ! Same applies for all the plants,xcept their growing time.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7 montbretia


    Tunnel 20ft x 12ft. Door one end, mesh-covered opening other end (which I regret, would have just left it covered). Raised beds + irrigation system which I don't use anymore as after a time the water seems to bore a whole through the bed and the water comes out the bottom, just flooding the paths. I just use the hose now, more specific and less water wasted on the open soil between plants.

    Plagued by woodlice at the moment, eating stems of French Dwarf Beans and Spinach - anyone have any suggestions?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 755 ✭✭✭Hocus Focus


    Arrgh!! I filled the bases of my (2-plank-high) beds with layers of straw and well-rotted grass cuttings which also included lots of fallen twigs and mowed up hedge clippings. I noticed a lot of woodlice when doing this, now you tell me that woodlice attack growing plants. I hope someone has some suggestions!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 794 ✭✭✭Berberis


    Theres a link here discussing it


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 794 ✭✭✭Berberis


    rolion wrote: »
    Very nice...enjoy it !
    However,i advice you to pay more attention to vegetable per square meter ratio. That space is very limited AND every square cm will need to return some value, back to you !

    Try to use it so you can rotate and have fresh veggies all the time ... IE that this month you plant radish,grow & eat it then next month you plant again. In meantime,in another small space, plant seeds that will grow to be ready for the soil ! Same applies for all the plants,xcept their growing time.

    Cheers for that. Yea these pics are from 4 yr ago when I started first.
    I have another tunnel beside where I start most things off ready for going into to the growing tunnel and loads of hanging baskets with strawberrys. Except carrots which I find always do better being sowen directly into the ground, Any time I've started them in plugs and then transplanted they mostly all forked on me. Still ate them though but awkward to peel.

    Nearly have it down to a tee now with always having something ready to plant once a space becomes free and rotaing the crops each year. But have to say I never stop learning something new.
    For someone who grew up and would only eat tinned peas, I'm amazed at the varity of veg I eat now.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 755 ✭✭✭Hocus Focus


    Any time I've started them in plugs and then transplanted they mostly all forked on me. Still ate them though but awkward to peel.


    Sorry for diverging from the main thrust of the thread, but in my opinion dry-skinned old carrots from the supermarket need to be peeled, but nice fresh ones from the tunnel only need to be scrubbed, their best nutrition is just below the skin.


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