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Repairing silage pit wall

  • 06-03-2017 1:22pm
    #1
    skoger
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 193 ✭✭


    There's a crack on one of the pit walls that was leaking effluent last year and was wondering what's the best way to go about fixing it? Was thinking of just cutting along it and filling with mortar. Is there any additive that I'd need to put into the mix? What strength of mix would you use? Any help is appreciated. Thanks


Comments

  • #2
    Wildsurfer
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,473 ✭✭✭Wildsurfer


    When my building contractor was sealing expansion joints on pit floor last year he used a special mastic in tubes... It was grey in colour, maybe someone knows whats its called?


  • #3
    Tokyo
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 22,656 ✭✭✭✭Tokyo


    Is the crack stable, or is it still moving? If it's a decent sized crack and it's still moving, you might have to pin and brace it first, otherwise just patching it won't be enough.


  • #4
    PN14
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 364 ✭✭PN14


    I would expect it was a product called Thioflex.

    its a high grade polysulphide sealent pretty expensive


  • #5
    skoger
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 193 ✭✭skoger


    mike_ie wrote: »
    Is the crack stable, or is it still moving? If it's a decent sized crack and it's still moving, you might have to pin and brace it first, otherwise just patching it won't be enough.

    It's really only a hairline crack. The silage got wet last year when we were filling it and the effluent was pi$$ing out through it.


  • #6
    Waffletraktor
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,442 ✭✭✭Waffletraktor


    skoger wrote: »
    It's really only a hairline crack. The silage got wet last year when we were filling it and the effluent was pi$$ing out through it.

    Is there steel in the wall? Effluent will mess it up pretty quick


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  • #7
    skoger
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 193 ✭✭skoger


    Yeah. It's a shuttered wall we put up around 15 years ago


  • #8
    FarmerDougal
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 359 ✭✭FarmerDougal


    skoger wrote: »
    Yeah. It's a shuttered wall we put up around 15 years ago

    Run a con saw along it and pour in melted liqufix. Will do a good few years I'd say


  • #9
    skoger
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 193 ✭✭skoger


    Finally got around to doing this a few days ago. I cut the cracks first then cleaned them out with the compressor. The stuff I used to fill it was called sikaflex construction+. It's supposed to be acid resistant according to a few construction boys I was chatting to. I'll get it filled in a few weeks and see what happens


  • #10
    Wildsurfer
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,473 ✭✭✭Wildsurfer


    skoger wrote: »
    Finally got around to doing this a few days ago. I cut the cracks first then cleaned them out with the compressor. The stuff I used to fill it was called sikaflex construction+. It's supposed to be acid resistant according to a few construction boys I was chatting to. I'll get it filled in a few weeks and see what happens
    Where did you get that product may I ask? Is it easy to apply, in a tube or tub?
    Also does anyone on here know of a product that you paint onto silo walls to help prevent the acid eating them, I'm sure there was an article on Journal about it a few years ago?


  • #11
    kun aguero
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 23 ✭kun aguero


    Sika 4a or 5a mixed with cement into a p
    Mortar paste is the job. Will go off very quick and have used it to seal up leaks in manholes for drainage.

    Not sure how it performs against the acid from silage but would surely hold up for a few years anyways.


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  • #12
    Who2
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,123 ✭✭✭Who2


    Wildsurfer wrote: »
    Where did you get that product may I ask? Is it easy to apply, in a tube or tub?
    Also does anyone on here know of a product that you paint onto silo walls to help prevent the acid eating them, I'm sure there was an article on Journal about it a few years ago?

    Comes in silicon tube form and some come in sausage form. Make sure the crack has no dust and dry. A squirty bottle with one third fairy liquid and two third water, is great for getting a finish.


  • #13
    Grueller
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,345 ✭✭✭Grueller


    Wildsurfer wrote: »
    Where did you get that product may I ask? Is it easy to apply, in a tube or tub?
    Also does anyone on here know of a product that you paint onto silo walls to help prevent the acid eating them, I'm sure there was an article on Journal about it a few years ago?

    Always cover them down with polythene from last year's cover here. Not a big job to do it.


  • #14
    rangler1
    Closed Accounts Posts: 6,497 ✭✭✭rangler1


    I used to use this stuff, put a plank both side of the wall and pour this boiling down from the top.....it'd go every where that the effluent was going before it'd cool

    http://www.irishtar.ie/Liquafix_J.pdf


  • #15
    Wildsurfer
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,473 ✭✭✭Wildsurfer


    Grueller wrote: »
    Always cover them down with polythene from last year's cover here. Not a big job to do it.

    Yeah thats a good idea alright. Would solve problem I have of effluent leaking through wall as well.


  • #16
    Never wrestle with pigs
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,447 ✭✭✭Never wrestle with pigs


    Anyone ever see or have a asphalt silage slab? They are supposed to be very good and they have a lot of them over the water.


  • #17
    skoger
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 193 ✭✭skoger


    Wildsurfer wrote: »
    Where did you get that product may I ask? Is it easy to apply, in a tube or tub?
    Also does anyone on here know of a product that you paint onto silo walls to help prevent the acid eating them, I'm sure there was an article on Journal about it a few years ago?

    I got it through the co-op. It came as a sausage and cost around 20e. No bother applying it. It doesn't go off to quick so you've time to work it in.

    Who2 wrote: »
    Comes in silicon tube form and some come in sausage form. Make sure the crack has no dust and dry. A squirty bottle with one third fairy liquid and two third water, is great for getting a finish.

    I just finished it off with a paint scraper
    rangler1 wrote: »
    I used to use this stuff, put a plank both side of the wall and pour this boiling down from the top.....it'd go every where that the effluent was going before it'd cool

    http://www.irishtar.ie/Liquafix_J.pdf

    I was going to use that to fix the crack as I used it before on the expansion joints on the floor but it only comes in 15kg bags and one tube of the other stuff done me. Is the stuff for painting the walls not liquafix S?


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