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Moving Gun Safe

  • 28-01-2017 7:53pm
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 519 ✭✭✭


    Guys can anyone help me out.

    Moving a gun safe and the place I'm putting have a plasterboarded block wall.

    What fixings/bolts etc do I need, spend 3 hours trying to use rawbolts but because the wall is plasterboarded they just pull out of the wall because they don't expand.

    What should I be using.

    Thanks a million


Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 889 ✭✭✭Wadi14


    your safe needs to be secured to a solid wall, if you are trying to secure it to the plasterboard only , it will not suffice. wont be acceptable to Garda inspection, as it will be way too easy to pull the safe from the wall.
    You need masonry bolts or masonry screws to secure a safe to a solid wall.

    One restricted firearm, or three or fewer non-restricted firearms: Each firearm shall be stored securely in a gun safe which meets standard BS 7558 and which shall be securely fixed to a solid structure.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 519 ✭✭✭PSXDupe


    I am not try to secure it to the plasterboard, I trying to secure it to the block wall behind the plasterboard.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 290 ✭✭Mississippi.


    Dry lined block wall?
    Is there blocks 2 or 3 inches in in the wall?
    Could you fix threaded bar in with some form of chemical anchor? just drill a slightly bigger hole in the plaster board to work through?
    Or if it is a traditional plaster board wall could you fix to the wooden uprights?

    I plink therefore I am



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 889 ✭✭✭Wadi14


    I understand , just up our way they want a solid wall and the safe bolted onto it, rather than to a wall that is plasterboarded , their reasoning is it would be too easy to jimmy a nail bar into the plasterboard at the back of the safe and rip it off the wall.
    Local hardware store for your masonry bolts, drill the holes in the wall with a smaller diameter bit and the bolts hold well when screwed in.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 519 ✭✭✭PSXDupe


    Dry lined block wall?
    Is there blocks 2 or 3 inches in in the wall?
    Could you fix threaded bar in with some form of chemical anchor? just drill a slightly bigger hole in the plaster board to work through?
    Or if it is a traditional plaster board wall could you fix to the wooden uprights?

    Block wall cover with insulated plasterboard. 50mm from block wall to surface of plasterboard so 50mm before I hit block wall.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 290 ✭✭Mississippi.


    There's another type of raw bolt where instead of tightening it and then taking off the nut you take out a bolt, on a few times i have replaced the bolt with a longer bit of threaded bar.

    I plink therefore I am



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,796 ✭✭✭scwazrh


    120mm Anchor bolts would be perfect for that .


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,513 ✭✭✭Melodeon


    Yep, 120mm or so Throughbolts or similar:
    http://www.rawlplug.co.uk/products/mechanical-anchors/throughbolts/

    Available in any decent builders providers.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 519 ✭✭✭PSXDupe


    Thanks folks


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,072 ✭✭✭clivej


    I'd use the rawbolts with the wedge at th eend with a screw thread in that pulls through the expanding part.

    Get very long bolts Measure from the block wall to the front of your plaster board and cut tube the same length and with an inside diameter that will slide over the bolt. 1/2" Copper pipe may do the job here.

    Put up the safe with all th ebolts ready to go in th eholes and push th esafe against the wall.
    Now as you tighten up the bolt the tube will stop the raw bolt from pulling out and get it started on the wedge part expending the outer. A great job so it is

    A bit of a pig to get all the bolts lined up but it works.

    OR do the same without the safe and just get all the raw bolts started off and the wedge starting to expand so they will stay in place. Then you put the safe against the wall and carefully start off the bolts again and tighten fully.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,070 ✭✭✭cavan shooter


    For what it's worth, I cut into the plaster board so that the safe is actually embedded in the wall. I also used angle iron bolted to the wall then into woodies for a bucket of plaster to fill in the gap and bury the angle.

    That was in 2006. It's a warm flow 4 gun safe btw. Now the toe rags have cordless angle grinders so wtf does it matter if it can be jemmied or not.... ...only kidfing fact is its the 3 minute rule when it comes to burglary they get what they can in 3 minutes the safe is a deterrent only that. If they want your guns they'll get them...and I dare say you will hand them the keys when they ask.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 519 ✭✭✭PSXDupe


    For what it's worth, I cut into the plaster board so that the safe is actually embedded in the wall. I also used angle iron bolted to the wall then into woodies for a bucket of plaster to fill in the gap and bury the angle.

    That was in 2006. It's a warm flow 4 gun safe btw. Now the toe rags have cordless angle grinders so wtf does it matter if it can be jemmied or not.... ...only kidfing fact is its the 3 minute rule when it comes to burglary they get what they can in 3 minutes the safe is a deterrent only that. If they want your guns they'll get them...and I dare say you will hand them the keys when they ask.

    I totally agree with that, if they get in they'll have the alarm going off, and with other easy items lying around like laptops, game consoles etc etc. Keep the safe out of sight and as you said if they want to get them and have the time, they;ll get them anyways.


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