Spark plug torque?

masculinist

Since I went to the trouble of getting a Torque Wrench, can anyone show me the Max Torque I should use on Spark Plugs for a Citroen C3 2003 . The model is the one which stretched from 2002 - 2009.

I handed back its Haynes manual to the library a month ago unfortunately. It was definitely written in there.

I tried Googling the Torque but Google isnt getting me anywhere.

The Spark Plugs are this brand


Denso K20TT#4
4604#4

Googling the spark plug isnt getting me too far either

I found this page http://www.globaldenso.com/en/products/aftermarket/plug/basic_knowledge/installation/index.html

But it doesnt say on the Spark Plugs if they are M8 etc and I have no M8 Bolts lying around to compare. Either way I wish to be risk averse. And I am not clear about whether the Torque for the Spark plugs is larger than the recommended Torque for the threads of the Citroen engine block if you follow me.

I have all the tools lying out ready to go but cant find any online record of the Torque.

rex-x

torque is not a suitable measurement for alot of bolts (dont get me started on people who torque wheels) just use common sense, crush the washer and then a bit more

Hal1

I hand tighten them with the socket and the 90°.

my3cents

To save explaining it most of what I'd say and more is here but I'm sure opinions will vary.

OP google spark plugs angular torque to get a load more info.

Another good reference http://www.ngk-sparkplugs.jp/english/techinfo/qa/q18/ .

And for Denso plugs http://www.globaldenso.com/en/products/aftermarket/plug/basic_knowledge/installation/index.html . - OK so you had that one whats the problem? M8 is a 8mm thread and M10 is a 10mm thread.

Cee-Jay-Cee

Been servicing my own car ms for nearly 30 years and never used a torque wrench for plugs. Tighten them then tighten a quarter turn more. I always then loosen each one and tighten again. Just dont put them in murder tight and put a drop of oil on the threads so they come out easy again.

biko

Yep, I just do them hand tight and then a small bit with a socket.

masculinist

Thanks . In the end I didn't use the torque wrench . The angle of entry was awkward so I started with a regular wrench with attached universal joint and spark plug socket. However it was proving impossible to get the spark plug socket back out of the hole. The wrench and universal joint would come out and leave it behind which was very frustrating outside in the dark evening . So I found in my toolbox , a complete spark plug wrench with T shaped handle and universal joint in one piece and used that instead .
I had been hoping the procedure might turn off an "engine management" icon which mysteriously appeared on my dashboard .
The strange thing is the icon did turn off for 5 minutes but turned back on again after successful change of all 4 spark plugs .

dooroy

Many years ago I read up on tightening spark plugs and since then (going on what was advised by manufacturers ) I do as follows :
1) When fitting new plugs which have washers , once the washer contacts the head give it another 1/2 to 3/4 of a turn to properly compress the washer;
2) When fitting taper seat plugs (don't see many of these now), once the plug has contacted the head give it about another 1/8 of a turn . If these plugs are overtightened they can be almost impossible to remove.

jca

dooroy wrote: »

Many years ago I read up on tightening spark plugs and since then (going on what was advised by manufacturers ) I do as follows :
1) When fitting new plugs which have washers , once the washer contacts the head give it another 1/2 to 3/4 of a turn to properly compress the washer;
2) When fitting taper seat plugs (don't see many of these now), once the plug has contacted the head give it about another 1/8 of a turn . If these plugs are overtightened they can be almost impossible to remove.

Exactly, nothing more, nothing less.