Doors bottom - Circular Saw vs Eletric Planer

OrdeP

Hi,

I got a new house and I'll get somebody to get some laminated fitted. After I asked some quotes to trim the doors bottoms I decided that I will do it myself and save a few bucks, as it doesn't look too complicated to perform.

There's around 17 doors and I'm undecided witch tool would do a better job?

Initially I was leaned towards a good electrical saw, however after reading some reviews, about some electric planers, I'm starting to change my mind.

Thank you in advance.

Sleeper12

OrdeP wrote:

Initially I was leaned towards a good electrical saw, however after reading some reviews, about some electric planers, I'm starting to changing my mind.

I've never been great with wood so my advice is to leave it to the professional.
Circular saw would be difficult to use if you are only taking a few mill off. I've used electric plainer before & it doesn't guarantee a straight edge either. Another thing to take into account is getting the doors off in the first place. Not so bad if it's a fairly modern house but trying to find the head of a flat head screw under 50 years worth of paint is another thing altogether.

El Kabong!

I have used a circular saw with laser guide, but you would want to practice first if you can.

Calahonda52

OrdeP wrote: »

Hi,

I got a new house and I'll get somebody to get some laminated fitted. After I asked some quotes to trim the doors bottoms I decided that I will do it myself and save a few bucks, as it doesn't look too complicated to perform.

There's around 17 doors and I'm undecided witch tool would do a better job?

Initially I was leaned towards a good electrical saw, however after reading some reviews, about some electric planers, I'm starting to change my mind.

Thank you in advance.

What's your skill level here?
What existing kit do you have?
What finish is on the doors?
What thickness are they?
What material are they? Solid, composite etc?
Typically, how much will be common off each door?

OrdeP

Calahonda52 wrote: »

What's your skill level here?
What existing kit do you have?
What finish is on the doors?
What thickness are they?
What material are they? Solid, composite etc?
Typically, how much will be common off each door?

1) a few works here and there, but I would consider myself a beginner still. Wanting to learn more, though.

2) Thinking to buy a
Makita HS7601J/2 190 mm Circular Saw
or
Bosch PHO 1500 Planer

3) white painted

4) can't be precise as I didn't move in yet. But they seemed 35mm

5) solid wood

6) 20 up to 40 each door

Calahonda52

ok.
The issues you face include chipping of the paint.

To do this properly and safely you need two strong trestles to put the door on, ideally wedged against something so as it won't move across the trestles.
Then you need a c-saw in a guide/track that can be cramped to the bottom of the door so as the cut will be straight and square.
The track will support the c-saw before the cutting starts and after the end of the cut.

You will get lads on here saying they can hold the door in one hand etc... all bs.

If you have not used a handheld C-Saw before, be careful, the femoral artery is a prime candidate if the saw is mis used.

As for a planer, forget it.

20 to 40 seems a v wide range but, hey, they are not my doors.:D

Good luck and keep well, the experts will be on later.

mick121

If your confident you will be fine.mark a straight line on the bottom of the door with pencil using a straight edge. Next score the line with a Stanley knife as this will prevent chipping.go easy with the saw and keep a firm grip.I would advise using safety glasses. Make sure the thickness of the saw blade is on the waste side of the line.cut outdoors or in a garage as there will be plenty of dust.

basillarkin

get a pro in, he will have a plunge saw, he will make light work of the 17 doors.

OrdeP

Calahonda52 wrote: »

ok.
The issues you face include chipping of the paint.

To do this properly and safely you need two strong trestles to put the door on, ideally wedged against something so as it won't move across the trestles.
Then you need a c-saw in a guide/track that can be cramped to the bottom of the door so as the cut will be straight and square.
The track will support the c-saw before the cutting starts and after the end of the cut.

You will get lads on here saying they can hold the door in one hand etc... all bs.

If you have not used a handheld C-Saw before, be careful, the femoral artery is a prime candidate if the saw is mis used.

As for a planer, forget it.

20 to 40 seems a v wide range but, hey, they are not my doors.:D

Good luck and keep well, the experts will be on later.

Was thinking to use paint tape and make a cut with a sharp knife before using the c saw.

It was different quotes from different people, that's why the 20 and 40.

OrdeP

basillarkin wrote: »

get a pro in, he will have a plunge saw, he will make light work of the 17 doors.

Sorry my ignorance, but what's the different between a circular saw + guide rail and a plunge saw?

Effects

Plunge saw is more precise. You can always make a guide yourself and clamp it to the door. That's how I did it.
I used a planer once and it took a chuck out of the door when it got to the end. I've used a circular saw and hand saw since.

http://www.toolstop.co.uk/6-reasons-to-buy-a-plunge-saw-a1201

RebelButtMunch

basillarkin wrote: »

get a pro in, he will have a plunge saw, he will make light work of the 17 doors.

I'd recommend that from experience. Get a pro in, a hundred quid maybe or less?
If you dont do a good job yourself you'll be looking at the results for the next 10 years or so.

OrdeP

RebelButtMunch wrote: »

I'd recommend that from experience. Get a pro in, a hundred quid maybe or less?
If you dont do a good job yourself you'll be looking at the results for the next 10 years or so.

Judging by the quotes I've had so far, is more like 350+ quid. That's why I'm looking to do it myself and as a plus I get a good tool, that I can use in other diy projects.

However, your point is very pertinent. but on the other hand who will be more careful than me, messing with my own doors?

dodzy

RebelButtMunch wrote: »

I'd recommend that from experience. Get a pro in, a hundred quid maybe or less?
If you dont do a good job yourself you'll be looking at the results for the next 10 years or so.

€100 quid for 17 doors ? Not a hope. A butcher perhaps, but nobody with skill will be anywhere near that price point.

OP, there is no way you will be taking 40mm off any door, unless you plan to pass dinner plates underneath.

RebelButtMunch

OrdeP wrote: »

Judging by the quotes I've had so far, is more like 350+ quid. That's why I'm looking to do it myself and as a plus I get a good tool, that I can use in other diy projects.

However, your point is very pertinent. but on the other hand who will be more careful than me, messing with my own doors?

Sorry, I missed the '17' part.!

OrdeP

dodzy wrote: »

€100 quid for 17 doors ? Not a hope. A butcher perhaps, but nobody with skill will be anywhere near that price point.

OP, there is no way you will be taking 40mm off any door, unless you plan to pass dinner plates underneath.

I misunderstood the question there. I'm still not sure how much is coming off as the flooring is not fitted yet.

Effects

OrdeP wrote: »

On the other hand who will be more careful than me, messing with my own doors?

Being careful and having experience to avoid mistakes are two different things!

You could always get some doors that have been chucked out in skips for practice.

The type of door can be an issue as well. I had to take 90mm off a door a couple of years ago. It was one of those non solid type doors. I had to remove the solid brace from the bottom before I trimmed the door and then slot it back in to the new shortened door.

OrdeP

Effects wrote: »

Being careful and having experience to avoid mistakes are two different things!

You could always get some doors that have been chucked out in skips for practice.

The type of door can be an issue as well. I had to take 90mm off a door a couple of years ago. It was one of those non solid type doors. I had to remove the solid brace from the bottom before I trimmed the door and then slot it back in to the new shortened door.

True and that's a very good idea. Cheers.

OrdeP

Now say that I need to take less than 15mm off. Would a circular or plunge saw a better fit for the job? Or a planer would be better?

Say that's a normal 35mm thick painted wood door.

colm_c

We didn't need to trim the bottom off any doors, instead we removed the saddleboards under the door and replaced them with a neater alternative.

We also replaced the skirting boards, as they wouldn't have gone back on properly, and that beading looks awful IMO.