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Door handle help

  • 22-01-2017 7:57pm
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,429 ✭✭✭


    I recently bought a house. The internal doors were a dark and dreary colour, so I stripped them down and repainted them. When I took the door knobs off, I discovered that whoever fitted then originally, cut bore holes that were too big. The holes are almost the size of the knob plate (literally I have about 1 mm to play with) so as you can imagine, putting these knobs back on is tricky.

    The bore holes are 2.5" in diameter. They should have been 2". So to fit these door knobs back on, or indeed any new door knobs, is a bit of a problem.

    One solution that I thought of, was some kind of blanking or standoff plate that would fit between the door and the knob plate. I could bore this to 2" and it would provide adequate support to refit these old knobs or indeed new ones.

    However I cannot for the life of me, find any such product online. I did come across this, which would be perfect but its in America. Cant seem to find anything similar in Europe.

    Does anyone know where I might get nice face plates (blanking plates, standoff plates, not sure what I should call them) finished in say a brushed aluminium, or even an acrylic white or something like that, that I could use ?

    407143.jpg

    407144.jpg


Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,434 ✭✭✭Rancid


    A Scar Plate, I think, is the thing you need, and from a quick google not available here or the UK.

    A shim washer would do the same job but with a stainless steel finish. See this link:
    https://www.accu.co.uk/en/704-shim-washers#elasticsearch_id_feature_501722=501722_699&elasticsearch_id_feature_501638=501638_161&id_elasticsearch_category=704&orderby=ranking&orderway=asc

    Look for the one with Internal diameter 56mm and External diameter 70mm.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,429 ✭✭✭dnme


    70 millimetres is still a bit small to be honest. It would give me only about one millimetre all round the outer edge. 70mm seems to be the biggest washer they do.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,195 ✭✭✭GrumpyMe


    Measure the hole, cut a circle of wood the same diameter and thickness +1mm, baste it with wood glue, insert in the hole, wait, wait, wait, drill new hole and reassemble handle.
    You could cut notch in door hole and new circle and fit a "wedge"...


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 10,153 ✭✭✭✭dodzy


    GrumpyMe wrote: »
    Measure the hole, cut a circle of wood the same diameter and thickness +1mm, baste it with wood glue, insert in the hole, wait, wait, wait, drill new hole and reassemble handle.
    You could cut notch in door hole and new circle and fit a "wedge"...

    Would be the best solution but, as Murphy's law will dictate, there's most likely zero chance of getting a perfect match on a hole saw diameter to suit in this situation :(


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,195 ✭✭✭GrumpyMe


    dodzy wrote: »
    Would be the best solution but, as Murphy's law will dictate, there's most likely zero chance of getting a perfect match on a hole saw diameter to suit in this situation :(
    http://www.ie.screwfix.com/adjustable-hole-cutter-with-cowl.html?utm_source=Google&utm_medium=CPC&utm_campaign=Shopping&gclid=CIrGkZCZ29ECFa287QodyqIOcA


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,429 ✭✭✭dnme


    Thanks for the replies. I dont think patching the bore holes with wood is the way to go. Ive just painted the doors (4 coats over 2 weeks so I dont want to fcuk the paint up.

    I'm thinking of a faceplate type solution. If I could get my hands on pvc or acrylic plastic panels, say 100mm x 100mm x 2mm thick, I could bore these and mount them between the door and the knob. These would preserve the paint and they would allow me to go buy new door handles, perhaps even smaller ones.

    However, Ive been googling for 48 hours and I cannot find anything that matches what I'm looking at. Ive emailed a couple of acrylic / plastic fabricators to see if they could cut the panels for me but I fear that may be prohibitively expensive.

    There's got to be a simple solution to this surely ?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,434 ✭✭✭Rancid


    As a last resort you could get wooden craft circles, bore them to fit, paint to match the doors and Tec7 glue them in place.
    Found this online:
    http://www.ebay.ie/itm/Circle-Craft-Shapes-Embellishments-Tags-Decorations-2mm-MDF-Wood-/182015145563


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,195 ✭✭✭GrumpyMe


    dnme wrote: »
    Thanks for the replies. I dont think patching the bore holes with wood is the way to go. Ive just painted the doors (4 coats over 2 weeks so I dont want to fcuk the paint up.

    There's got to be a simple solution to this surely ?

    You haven't painted the holes so there is no paint to fcuk up!:P

    Good luck with your search for a simple solution.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,285 ✭✭✭bonzodog2


    When you refit the catch mechanism into the edge of the door, won't the square hole that the bar goes through help to locate the handles relative to the hole?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,429 ✭✭✭dnme


    bonzodog2 wrote: »
    When you refit the catch mechanism into the edge of the door, won't the square hole that the bar goes through help to locate the handles relative to the hole?

    No, the whole assembly can move all over the place until its tightened. When tightened theres almost no wood for the assembly to rest on cos of the size of the holes.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,974 ✭✭✭whizbang


    If you use faceplates, you still have to fix these to the door. Standard 4" electrical faceplates will work, I think Argos have Aluminium ones.

    Take a Pringles tube or similar, cut it into circles slightly wider than the thickness of the door. Cut these circles down so the ends will overlap and create a spiral inside the door holes. Glue 2 or 3 of these inside the holes, and use slim woodscrews to refit the handles.
    Rotate offset the opposite side handle so the screws dont interfere with each other. On second thoughts dont offset, they may grip each other.

    How were the original screws holding?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 73,520 ✭✭✭✭colm_mcm


    Can you post a picture of the lock mechanism sitting in the door, I think I have a simpler solution.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,429 ✭✭✭dnme


    colm_mcm wrote: »
    Can you post a picture of the lock mechanism sitting in the door, I think I have a simpler solution.

    Colm,

    Here you go. They are simple standard handles. One simply screws into the other and the latch is linked in the middle. Ive actually made contact with an Irish plastic forming company, they are gonna cut me face plates in 3mm white acrylic. I'll see how they work.

    407638.jpg


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 198 ✭✭Admldj


    Have you considered push plates? They are available in any hardware or ironmongery suppliers and are really cheap see below:

    http://www.ie.screwfix.com/finger-plate-rectangular-plain-aluminium.html?utm_source=Google&utm_medium=CPC&utm_campaign=Shopping&gclid=CPPB0cnG49ECFQ6eGwodM88OPg


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 73,520 ✭✭✭✭colm_mcm


    I would use a router to cut out a 2-3mm recess the same size as the outside radius of the doorknob. That way it won't move around.

    No harm in checking that your handles will accommodate being closer together you're limited by the threaded bit.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,278 ✭✭✭mordeith


    Admldj wrote: »
    Have you considered push plates? They are available in any hardware or ironmongery suppliers and are really cheap see below:

    http://www.ie.screwfix.com/finger-plate-rectangular-plain-aluminium.html?utm_source=Google&utm_medium=CPC&utm_campaign=Shopping&gclid=CPPB0cnG49ECFQ6eGwodM88OPg

    Problem there is the OP would have to relocate the door catch in the frame


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,429 ✭✭✭dnme


    colm_mcm wrote: »
    I would use a router to cut out a 2-3mm recess the same size as the outside radius of the doorknob. That way it won't move around.

    No harm in checking that your handles will accommodate being closer together you're limited by the threaded bit.

    Believe it or not I have less that 1mm to play with, the holes are just about a fraction smaller than the handles. lets see how I get on with the acrylic plates.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 198 ✭✭Admldj


    mordeith wrote: »
    Problem there is the OP would have to relocate the door catch in the frame

    Why? The issue is mounting the handles I believe the latch is ok as it is


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,278 ✭✭✭mordeith


    Admldj wrote: »
    Why? The issue is mounting the handles I believe the latch is ok as it is

    Well I presume you are suggesting the push plate to cover the existing hole? If so then the knob will have to be relocated. Apologies if I've misinterpreted.

    Edit: Unless you are saying mount the knob on the plate? Tricky enough I'd have thought


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 198 ✭✭Admldj


    mordeith wrote: »
    Well I presume you are suggesting the push plate to cover the existing hole? If so then the knob will have to be relocated. Apologies if I've misinterpreted.

    Edit: Unless you are saying mount the knob on the plate? Tricky enough I'd have thought

    Exactly, the OP would just need to drill 2 holes in the plate for the retaining screws and 1 for the spindle.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,429 ✭✭✭dnme


    So for any who were following or interested, here is the solution I came up with.

    I found a plastics former and manufacturer (namely acrylicdesign.ie) online and emailed them with my problem. My idea was to get them to cut out scratch plates in 3mm thick white acrylic. They replied in the positive so I ordered a a batch of plates, 2 for each door. The plates arrived during the week. They're nice. Polished acrylic with a slight round over on the corners.

    I am able to drill a hole in the acrylic plate which is smaller than the hole drilled through the door and just big enough to accommodate the lock mechanism and fixings. I am then able to mount a plate each side of the door, and mount the handle assemblies onto the plates. The plates give support to the assembly.

    I just tried out the first door there this evening and all went well. The acrylic is easy to work with. I was able to clamp it, cut a hold with a drill and hole saw etc.

    408286.jpg

    408287.jpg

    408288.jpg


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,974 ✭✭✭whizbang


    Very neat, well done.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 198 ✭✭Admldj


    Looks neat, I take it the handles are basically acting like a clamp to the acrylic?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,434 ✭✭✭Rancid


    Admldj wrote: »
    Looks neat, I take it the handles are basically acting like a clamp to the acrylic?
    Looking at the pics last night, I assumed the same. At 3mm thickness and considering there is 1 or 2mm of wood to take the pressure the plates shouldn't warp, I think.

    Nice neat solution, dnme.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,374 ✭✭✭J.R.


    Rancid wrote: »
    Looking at the pics last night, I assumed the same. At 3mm thickness and considering there is 1 or 2mm of wood to take the pressure the plates shouldn't warp, I think.

    Nice neat solution, dnme.

    Worked out well...nice & tidy.

    Paint job looks well also....really freshens the doors!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 10,153 ✭✭✭✭dodzy


    Fill the hole on the frame please! It's manky looking, after all the good work.


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