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Painting interior doors and skirting help

  • 18-01-2017 11:01am
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,429 ✭✭✭


    Hi all,

    I'd appreciate any advice. I am repainting the skirting and doors. They were originally choc ice brown which was awful so I decided to paint them white just to get the place livable. The old paint was oil based or at least I assume so.

    I spent a week sanding which was pure hell. I used a Black and Decker mouse which saved serious time but still the dust and noise was awful. I then went to prime and after reading various advice online, I went with Zinsser Bullseye 123 primer. This paint job is slow, I am managing to get two doors/frames and room skirting down per evening. The primer looks a little streaky and thin on the wood. As I get further and further into the paint job I am getting worried that I'll never finish due to the sheer amount of wood I need to cover.

    Can anyone advise me, what top coat to use that will make my life as easy as possible ? I basically want a product that will brush on well and look well. If I can get away with one coat great, but if I have to, I'll suffer doing two coats. I cant bear the thoughts of sanding between coats, it's just so much work, so dirty, too intricate and too much surface area. I just want the wood white and looking reasonably well.

    Can anyone advise me, what top coat to use that will make my life as easy as possible ?

    Many thanks


Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,781 ✭✭✭Ceepo


    dnme wrote: »
    Hi all,

    I'd appreciate any advice. I am repainting the skirting and doors. They were originally choc ice brown which was awful so I decided to paint them white just to get the place livable. The old paint was oil based or at least I assume so.

    I spent a week sanding which was pure hell. I used a Black and Decker mouse which saved serious time but still the dust and noise was awful. I then went to prime and after reading various advice online, I went with Zinsser Bullseye 123 primer. This paint job is slow, I am managing to get two doors/frames and room skirting down per evening. The primer looks a little streaky and thin on the wood. As I get further and further into the paint job I am getting worried that I'll never finish due to the sheer amount of wood I need to cover.

    Can anyone advise me, what top coat to use that will make my life as easy as possible ? I basically want a product that will brush on well and look well. If I can get away with one coat great, but if I have to, I'll suffer doing two coats. I cant bear the thoughts of sanding between coats, it's just so much work, so dirty, too intricate and too much surface area. I just want the wood white and looking reasonably well.

    Can anyone advise me, what top coat to use that will make my life as easy as possible ?

    Many thanks

    Putting white over dark brown unfortunately is going to require 3 if not 4 coats.
    A very light sanding is all that's required between coat. Use a sanding pad or block as it's easier.
    Realistically there was no need for a primer. In generally you would only use a primer on new timber or varnished timber that you want to paint.
    Water-based paint will be easier to use than oil based but there is very little hiding power in white satinwood or gloss paint.
    You could chance putting water-based undercoat on as your next coat but you will still need a few more coats.

    Normally in that situation I would use 2no coats of undercoat (3 if required) and 1 coat of gloss.
    Or 1 coat of undercoat and 2no coats of Satinwood, all would be oil based.

    It will take time to do it right.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 222 ✭✭TTTT


    Oil based will give you the best results. Give the Bin a light sand before you undercoat. Be advised that the smell off the oil based is intense. I would not recommend doing it in the evening as you'll be breathing it all night. Best done in the morning and leave the windows open.

    Water based looks **** and is ****.

    If the Bin is streaky you might be over working it. It dries very quickly so you have to brush / roll it fast and leave it. It will sand smooth easily though.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,087 ✭✭✭markc1184


    I recently had the same work done on skirting while getting my place decorated. In total it took 2 coats of undercoat and 2 coats of satinwood. As said above definitely try get it done early in the day.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 18,649 ✭✭✭✭The Princess Bride


    I did this last year and like the others have said, it took 2 coats of primer or undercoat-I alternated - and 2-3 of top coat.

    I used Colourtrend French White which looks better than regular white imo.
    Skirting and doors, bannisters too-house looks lovely and warm and bright.
    Well worth the effort and time taken, I did it all myself.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,429 ✭✭✭dnme


    Thanks all for the replies. Ive a lot going on in my life atm so have not been able to respond here, apologies.

    TBH I went down the water based route by accident. I went into B&Q to buy paint without my glasses. Ended up coming home with water based primer. I only copped on when I went to wash the brush in white spirits. Painting used to be so simple. Now there's so many products to choose from. I didn't even realise there was a whole new family of water based products. The last time I painted wood was in the early 90s :)

    Anyhow, after coating half the house in that initial water based primer, I decided to stick with water based. I now have two coats of water based undercoat on everything.

    1. Tell me, looking at the attached images, would you say I need another coat of undercoat or am I ready to start with top coat (s) ?

    2. How many top coats would you go with ?

    3. Is it possible to use oil based top coat over the water based undercoat ? The reason I ask is that I reckon it might flow and smooth itself better than water although I'm really clutching at straws here.

    406875.jpg

    406876.jpg


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,411 ✭✭✭stooge


    1. Tell me, looking at the attached images, would you say I need another coat of undercoat or am I ready to start with top coat (s) ?
    Looks ok to me to start on the top coat

    2. How many top coats would you go with ?
    2

    3. Is it possible to use oil based top coat over the water based undercoat ? The reason I ask is that I reckon it might flow and smooth itself better than water although I'm really clutching at straws here.
    It might make a mess of what you have but you could try it out on a section first.

    Probably going to do something similar myself soon with varnished red deal doors and skirting


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 18,649 ✭✭✭✭The Princess Bride


    When mine looked like that, I did another undercoat before I started with the top coats.
    Am sure others would have gone straight to top from there.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,374 ✭✭✭J.R.


    The advantage of using water based white paint is that it will stay while longer...not yellow.

    Many of the modern satinwoods & gloss that are oil based tend to yellow and look old very quickly after painting........within 6-8 months.

    Water based will stay white and not yellow for much longer.

    The disadvantage of water based is that it is not as hard wearing as oil-based and often needs an extra coat for coverage over the oil-based.

    I did my kitchen presses in water based and all of the doors, architrave and frames in the house. I was sick of doing it with oil based satinwood and oil based gloss ....huge job....and it all beginning to yellow within a few months when oil-based was used.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 776 ✭✭✭Fries-With-That


    dnme wrote: »
    T

    1. Tell me, looking at the attached images, would you say I need another coat of undercoat or am I ready to start with top coat

    In my experience it doesn't matter how many coats of water based undercoat it gets it will still look greyish.

    If I was you I'd start on top coats now, using a water based gloss/satin, these water based products go on much easier than oil based.

    Have you considered using a mini roller on the doors you'd fly through them.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,434 ✭✭✭Rancid


    2 top coats with Satinwood using a brush for the recessed parts and a FLOCKED mini roller for the rest. The flocked roller sleeves give a lovely finish.
    Harris brand or Dosco.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 10,153 ✭✭✭✭dodzy


    Rancid wrote: »
    2 top coats with Satinwood using a brush for the recessed parts and a FLOCKED mini roller for the rest. The flocked roller sleeves give a lovely finish.
    Harris brand or Dosco.

    I've noticed that satinwood oil based does yellow very quickly as previously posted. They ain't making paint like they used to; same with everything really:(


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,374 ✭✭✭J.R.


    dodzy wrote: »
    I've noticed that satinwood oil based does yellow very quickly as previously posted. They ain't making paint like they used to; same with everything really:(

    Yes - seemingly it has to do with EU legislation & rules.......reducing Volitle Organic Compounds (VOCs) in the paint

    http://www.telegraph.co.uk/finance/newsbysector/retailandconsumer/9188572/Dulux-pays-thousands-in-compensation-after-Brilliant-White-gloss-fades-to-yellow.html


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