Building Garage for woodwork

laugh

I'm setting out to build a garage for wood work.

I'm thinking 6m wide by 4.2 deep (4.167) internal dimensions to be 25sqm total.

I'm thinking of:

* insulated raft.
* block built with red brick front to match house.
* insulated with internal wooden framework to screw plywood to.
* 3m wide insulated roller garage door.
* Door on side front for access.
* large window on same side as door over workbench.

Any ideas / tips?

the_pen_turner

put the door in a way that would allow you to use a chop saw with longer lengths out the door

put some kind of loft at each end to store household overflow and all the crap we gather. leave the middle part open to give room to rotate longer lengths.

put a roller door on the window to make it more secure

plenty of power, phone , tv etc

put in a sink

recipio

Hopefully you will end up with some machinery in the middle and bench tools around the periphery. Wire in as many sockets as you can - you will need them and consider a master switch at the door for peace of mind. A 16 amp circuit will let you run heavy duty machines like planers. A table saw near the door is a good idea but it tends to block access unless it is on wheels. If you have the funds now is the time to install a dedicated dust extraction system - or at least the ducting until you get a good extractor.

Calahonda52

unless u have vehicular access 3m wide door is necessary unless you are cross cutting 8 by 4 sheets on a sea that allows that!
Before I sold off all my tools last year, I had them all on lovable rubber castors, made it very useful.
I would also have a work are outside the wide door so as you can wheel out machines for use in the open: I had an IP 55 if I recall correctly, external power supply for plugging in the big stuff outside.
When pouring the floor made cast a slot in it to allow cables and compressed air lines run from one side to other

jack of all

Some things I did in my own shed 2 years ago:

I plylined the inside with 1/2" pine shuttering ply- nice "warm" finish and great for fixing things to, although heavier stuff is fixed through to studs/ battens behind. I fixed the ply with coarse thread drywall screws.

Sockets, sockets, sockets! I got mine (double socket, metal clad and switched) for cheap from Screwfix. Put in a low level socket near the door for easy hook-up when using tools outside (ripping down sheet materials). All my wiring is surface mounted, through PVC conduit, easy to alter after if required and sufficient mechanical protection for a home workshop.

Good lighting- I put in 5ft fluorescents, I went for more expensive "corrosion resistant" fittings- these are fitted with a rubber seal and snap on fasteners. You'll never need to worry about fine dust (or insects) getting inside the fitting. For task lighting I have a cheap angle-poise located at one bench, an even cheaper LED striplight at another bench.

Good expoxy floor paint on the concrete (rougher pan finish is best for adhesion). I used cheap rubber matting around the workbench to prevent fatigue and save tools (and floor) from damage. Halfords sells packs of cheap matting for a tenner.

Get a fire extinguisher, fire blanket and a first aid kit! A small tweezers is invaluable.....

Put a cheap roller blind on the windows to keep out prying eyes.

Electric oil-filled rad for a bit of comfort in the evenings.

Pick up cheap parts organisers from Lidl/ Aldi- those multi drawer units are great for screws, nails, fixings etc. "Spar" type shelving is not the cheapest but it's strong and adaptable.

As regards windows- two smaller windows might be better than one large one as regards security?

laugh

Thank for all of the advice guys.

More a construction question but how would you provide easy access to the loft?

Leave out rafters in the middle and have a wooden ladder you can move to either side? I mean having a cathedral type ceiling at the top and creating a loft part front and back.




I moved the access door to the back corner so I could run timber from a mitre saw station out the door.

laugh

the_pen_turner wrote: »

put the door in a way that would allow you to use a chop saw with longer lengths out the door

put some kind of loft at each end to store household overflow and all the crap we gather. leave the middle part open to give room to rotate longer lengths.

put a roller door on the window to make it more secure

plenty of power, phone , tv etc

put in a sink

Thanks for your advice I moved the door so it's near the long, opening free wall.

I'm setting out on this project because the existing garage is being incorporated into the house so I'll need to store the household stuff like paint etc, would be cool if I could do a ceiling like this with access to the loft:



The boards connecting the front to the back are for lights. Maybe it would be a dust trap but I lie the idea of being able to see what I have there.

recipio wrote: »

Hopefully you will end up with some machinery in the middle and bench tools around the periphery. Wire in as many sockets as you can - you will need them and consider a master switch at the door for peace of mind. A 16 amp circuit will let you run heavy duty machines like planers. A table saw near the door is a good idea but it tends to block access unless it is on wheels. If you have the funds now is the time to install a dedicated dust extraction system - or at least the ducting until you get a good extractor.

Yea my plan is to have a large assembly table somewhere central that doubles up as an out feed table for the saw.

Is there a special type of ducting I'd need to use if I wanted to put some runs in the floor for dust extraction? I read somewhere that static can be a problem.

Calahonda52 wrote: »

unless u have vehicular access 3m wide door is necessary unless you are cross cutting 8 by 4 sheets on a sea that allows that!
Before I sold off all my tools last year, I had them all on lovable rubber castors, made it very useful.
I would also have a work are outside the wide door so as you can wheel out machines for use in the open: I had an IP 55 if I recall correctly, external power supply for plugging in the big stuff outside.
When pouring the floor made cast a slot in it to allow cables and compressed air lines run from one side to other

Thanks for the advice it would be nice to be able to roll things out like that.
I was thinking 3m would be good as in the mythical future I might try get planning permission to make the garage longer, I'm sure when I start pricing doors or I pick up a preloved door it could change.

jack of all wrote: »

Some things I did in my own shed 2 years ago:

I plylined the inside with 1/2" pine shuttering ply- nice "warm" finish and great for fixing things to, although heavier stuff is fixed through to studs/ battens behind. I fixed the ply with coarse thread drywall screws.

Sockets, sockets, sockets! I got mine (double socket, metal clad and switched) for cheap from Screwfix. Put in a low level socket near the door for easy hook-up when using tools outside (ripping down sheet materials). All my wiring is surface mounted, through PVC conduit, easy to alter after if required and sufficient mechanical protection for a home workshop.

Good lighting- I put in 5ft fluorescents, I went for more expensive "corrosion resistant" fittings- these are fitted with a rubber seal and snap on fasteners. You'll never need to worry about fine dust (or insects) getting inside the fitting. For task lighting I have a cheap angle-poise located at one bench, an even cheaper LED striplight at another bench.

Good expoxy floor paint on the concrete (rougher pan finish is best for adhesion). I used cheap rubber matting around the workbench to prevent fatigue and save tools (and floor) from damage. Halfords sells packs of cheap matting for a tenner.

Get a fire extinguisher, fire blanket and a first aid kit! A small tweezers is invaluable.....

Put a cheap roller blind on the windows to keep out prying eyes.

Electric oil-filled rad for a bit of comfort in the evenings.

Pick up cheap parts organisers from Lidl/ Aldi- those multi drawer units are great for screws, nails, fixings etc. "Spar" type shelving is not the cheapest but it's strong and adaptable.

As regards windows- two smaller windows might be better than one large one as regards security?

Thanks for the tips, I'll see what the cost of a shutter for the window will be, I might change to two smaller ones if it's costing a lot, unfortunately the only wall suitable for a window over a work area is north facing.

the_pen_turner

make the ceiling (or beams across) 9 foot high at least.
if you moving ply around you will appreciate I it.

I would build a small shed extension to house a compressor dust collector, timber over flow, etc.

recipio

An outfeed table is a good idea but try and make it fold down vertically. You will only use it occasionally. Pre planning for ducting is ideal. I believe steel ducting is best as it earths any static and has low internal resistance.
It looks like you will have limited space in the attic. Its going to be difficult going up and down a ladder with anything heavy - a stairs is safer. You could of course install a joist strong enough to support an electric hoist. More food for thought !

the_pen_turner

my workshop had ceiling joists every 24" (every second one left out) . i put in 6 x 2 joists across it so that i have 5 feet of floor then 24" of a gap then 5 feet again. there are 4 gaps and 5 floors. the end floors are 3 foot because i can only get at one side .

i dont have a problem putting stuff up there. it is full to the brim. the beauty is that i can go up in loads of places so its easy to get what you want.

i bought 50 of those stackable plastic boxs and put all kinds of stuf up there