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Bi-Metal hole saw or Carbide hole saw for cutting hole in ceiling?

  • 05-01-2017 12:11pm
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 14,081 ✭✭✭✭


    I need to cut a hole through my ceiling (which I'm guessing is drywall?) and Lidl are selling "Bi-metal hole saws" and "Carbide hole saws" for €12.99.

    Which one do I need for the purpose?

    Thanks


Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 14,081 ✭✭✭✭mrcheez


    To be specific the Carbide hole saws look similar to this one:

    pl4483053-737mm_ceramic_drill_hole_saw_single_tungsten_carbide_tipped_hole_saw.jpg

    whereas the Bi-metal ones look like the traditional hole saw:

    Bi-Metal-Hole-Saw-14MM-250MM-.jpg


    The packaging says the Bi-metal one can be used on wood/metal, but the carbide one mentions drywall, so just curious which one will work best and offer more usability for other jobs later on


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 14,081 ✭✭✭✭mrcheez


    any ideas on this?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,531 ✭✭✭Car99


    The carbide one look more suited to drywall as i abrasive and will neatly grind out the hole in the drywall with out ripping it to bits.

    The toothed hole saw might be a bit aggressive for the drywall and leave a jagged hole unless you have a high speed drill and apply very little pressure while cutting


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,597 ✭✭✭the_pen_turner


    Not much difference. If I had both to hand I would use the carbide but they will both do perfectly. I don't think I have ever seen a spark use anything other than bimetal.

    Is that a set in life.
    I have a few of those cheap sets for dirty work like drilling slabs or where they would gym up with rubber etc.

    I would go with the bi metal because you are more likely to use the others in the set afterwards. The carbide is limited afterwords


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,194 ✭✭✭foxy farmer


    mrcheez wrote: »
    any ideas on this?

    The bimetal holesaw will happily cut drywall timber plastic and sheet metal. The carbide version only used for tiles and masonry. No good on timber.
    Use the slowest speed on your drill to protect against holesaw jamming suddenly. Also wear goggles as drywall dust is nasty in the eyes .


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 14,081 ✭✭✭✭mrcheez


    The bimetal holesaw will happily cut drywall timber plastic and sheet metal. The carbide version only used for tiles and masonry. No good on timber.
    Use the slowest speed on your drill to protect against holesaw jamming suddenly. Also wear goggles as drywall dust is nasty in the eyes .

    OK so the Bimetal one won't shred the drywall if I take it slowly?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 14,081 ✭✭✭✭mrcheez


    Found this method online to avoid dust going everywhere.. handy!

    zlJCe.jpg


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 34,216 ✭✭✭✭listermint


    mrcheez wrote: »
    OK so the Bimetal one won't shred the drywall if I take it slowly?

    Drill small pilot hole. Then lash at it with speed. Don't do it slowly it won't cut and will leave jagged edges


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 14,081 ✭✭✭✭mrcheez


    OK, so rotate at max speed, but don't apply pressure... I'll stick with the bitmetal, thanks

    Now to find an old transparent takeaway box to catch the dust in


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 34,216 ✭✭✭✭listermint


    mrcheez wrote: »
    OK, so rotate at max speed, but don't apply pressure... I'll stick with the bitmetal, thanks

    Now to find an old transparent takeaway box to catch the dust in

    Or the wives plastic mixing bowl :)


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 14,081 ✭✭✭✭mrcheez


    listermint wrote: »
    Or the wives plastic mixing bowl :)

    hmm... need to order a Russian bride first for that...


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 14,081 ✭✭✭✭mrcheez


    Just another question on this (btw I ended up buying both types as they were only €12) ...

    I want to drill a hole in the side of a sealed bit of boxing around my toilet, but I want to ensure the piece of wood I drill out can be retrieved rather than fall in behind the boxing.

    The reason I want the piece of wood is so that I can seal up the hole after and make a small "door" so I can check for leaks etc.

    The wood is thin lumber about 6mm thick.

    If I drill out the hole using either the carbide or bi-metal saw, will the piece of wood remain in the saw and retrievable?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,917 ✭✭✭red sean


    mrcheez wrote: »
    Just another question on this (btw I ended up buying both types as they were only €12) ...

    I want to drill a hole in the side of a sealed bit of boxing around my toilet, but I want to ensure the piece of wood I drill out can be retrieved rather than fall in behind the boxing.

    The reason I want the piece of wood is so that I can seal up the hole after and make a small "door" so I can check for leaks etc.

    The wood is thin lumber about 6mm thick.

    If I drill out the hole using either the carbide or bi-metal saw, will the piece of wood remain in the saw and retrievable?[/QUOTE]
    It may or it may not!
    If the wood you're drilling is 6mm and the pilot drill is not too short,it probably will remain in the saw. You should withdraw saw gently. Also , I would use the bimetal saws.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 14,081 ✭✭✭✭mrcheez


    red sean wrote: »
    It may or it may not!
    If the wood you're drilling is 6mm and the pilot drill is not too short,it probably will remain in the saw. You should withdraw saw gently. Also , I would use the bimetal saws.

    I wonder if I put a nail in the wood prior to drilling and attached a string to it, then somehow got the string attached to the centre of the saw bit so that as I pull it out it pulls the piece of wood along with it?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,917 ✭✭✭red sean


    When you make your small door, can you not reach in and retrieve the bit?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 14,081 ✭✭✭✭mrcheez


    red sean wrote: »
    When you make your small door, can you not reach in and retrieve the bit?

    Well I mean I only wanted to make the hole as big as the section I'm drilling out, plus it will be about 3 cm off the bottom so not really possible to reach in and pull it through as it will be a tight fit.

    Best thing is to avoid letting it fall through in the first place.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,597 ✭✭✭the_pen_turner


    It 50 50 as to whether it will come out.

    I would double sided tape on a thicker price and drill through both . .it should stay out the hole saw


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,194 ✭✭✭foxy farmer


    Drill the hole at a slight angle. The waste piece will be cut on one side first and pass back into the holesaw before the hole is cut fully. Better chance of holding on to the waste piece.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 279 ✭✭Stravos Murphy


    Drilling at an angle will lead to vibration and may cause personal injury along with tool damage.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,597 ✭✭✭the_pen_turner


    Drilling at an angle will lead to vibration and may cause personal injury along with tool damage.

    No it won't. .


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  • Closed Accounts Posts: 279 ✭✭Stravos Murphy


    It will, you are completely misusing the hole saw. Think about it.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 14,081 ✭✭✭✭mrcheez


    the recommendation is to drill straight alright. I might try the double sided tape method.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,597 ✭✭✭the_pen_turner


    It will, you are completely misusing the hole saw. Think about it.

    how are you mis using it .
    iv done it loads of times. at least 40 time.
    never has it become a dangerous situation or created vibrations
    extend the bit if you need to stanrt it a long way away


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 279 ✭✭Stravos Murphy


    Maybe on the 42nd time it will be a work place accident. That's like saying the last 40 times I drove I never wore a seat belt so let's continue.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,597 ✭✭✭the_pen_turner


    i dont see why you think cutting at an angle is more dangerous than normal drilling


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 279 ✭✭Stravos Murphy


    It's not recommended, you are misusing the tool.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,597 ✭✭✭the_pen_turner


    reconmended by who.
    why do a lot of these companies make attachments that all you to notch pipes with hole saws. its doing the same.

    what harm will to do to the drill or to the hole saw.
    runnong a holesaw with some of the teath cutting air reduces pressure and allows the teeth to clean them selfs better. resulting in less heat and a sharper holesaw.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 279 ✭✭Stravos Murphy


    Doesn't them hole saw for notching pipes have a guide no? And recommendation by the manufacturer obviously.


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