Shed

arctictree

Pricing up a shed at the moment. Might be a silly question but is there a need to have 6 foot concrete sides? Seems to much cheaper to just have sheeting to the ground. Would be mainly used for lambing.

Timmaay

arctictree wrote: »

Pricing up a shed at the moment. Might be a silly question but is there a need to have 6 foot concrete sides? Seems to much cheaper to just have sheeting to the ground. Would be mainly used for lambing.

Yep no need for 6ft of concrete, I would suggest 1 or 2 ft (either blocks or concrete) to make it easier to keep clean, and less risk of sheets rotting etc.

9935452

Having higher sides makes it more universal , you can tip stuff against them like timber turn grain etc .
For sheds for animals it also makes it easier to clear out them with a loader , you have something to push against

Who2

You'll regret not putting walls in it. There's not that much of a difference in the overall scheme of it.

Timmaay

Who2 wrote: »

You'll regret not putting walls in it. There's not that much of a difference in the overall scheme of it.

Depends on if you ever plan on extending the shed also, much easier to screw off afew sheets, I got 2 6ft concrete walls here that I'm cursing why they were ever put up ha, on the to do list to remove and replace with a feed barrier.

sako 85

arctictree wrote: »

Pricing up a shed at the moment. Might be a silly question but is there a need to have 6 foot concrete sides? Seems to much cheaper to just have sheeting to the ground. Would be mainly used for lambing.

We built a new sheep shed a few years ago and went for poured concrete walls. At the time when i was doing the sums, when all materials labour and internal plastering was included there was no real difference in price.

tatyoman

To highjack this thread, I have a probably simple question to the more experienced than I.

A friend of mine has no more use for a clear span portal frame shed that he has and asked if I wanted to buy it. There are no walls in it, just sheeting to the ground.

It is a nice shed (fairly fresh), but I want to use it for cattle as a sick-wing or calving pens/ suck calves etc, with pens either side and a passage down the middle..

However, it is just a slight bit too narrow for the passage way and pens for the tractor to go down. Probably would go down, but no comfort at it.

So, would it be feasible to make a couple of girders with brackets to extend the roof purlins to widen the shed a little?
And even put some bracing in the middle for extra strength?

Anybody do this before?
I know I will need the bit extra sheeting material but I don't need all the side sheeting as I will have concrete walls.

dzer2

tatyoman wrote: »

To highjack this thread, I have a probably simple question to the more experienced than I.

A friend of mine has no more use for a clear span portal frame shed that he has and asked if I wanted to buy it. There are no walls in it, just sheeting to the ground.

It is a nice shed (fairly fresh), but I want to use it for cattle as a sick-wing or calving pens/ suck calves etc, with pens either side and a passage down the middle..

However, it is just a slight bit too narrow for the passage way and pens for the tractor to go down. Probably would go down, but no comfort at it.

So, would it be feasible to make a couple of girders with brackets to extend the roof purlins to widen the shed a little?
And even put some bracing in the middle for extra strength?

Anybody do this before?
I know I will need the bit extra sheeting material but I don't need all the side sheeting as I will have concrete walls.

absolutely no bother doing that you will be raising the apex tho

Who2

tatyoman wrote: »

To highjack this thread, I have a probably simple question to the more experienced than I.

A friend of mine has no more use for a clear span portal frame shed that he has and asked if I wanted to buy it. There are no walls in it, just sheeting to the ground.

It is a nice shed (fairly fresh), but I want to use it for cattle as a sick-wing or calving pens/ suck calves etc, with pens either side and a passage down the middle..

However, it is just a slight bit too narrow for the passage way and pens for the tractor to go down. Probably would go down, but no comfort at it.

So, would it be feasible to make a couple of girders with brackets to extend the roof purlins to widen the shed a little?
And even put some bracing in the middle for extra strength?

Anybody do this before?
I know I will need the bit extra sheeting material but I don't need all the side sheeting as I will have concrete walls.

You'll want to be getting it cheap by the time it's taken down and extended and messing with the sheeting I'd say you'd be as well off just get one made.

Timmaay

Who2 wrote: »

You'll want to be getting it cheap by the time it's taken down and extended and messing with the sheeting I'd say you'd be as well off just get one made.

Or pick up a kit like this, https://www.donedeal.ie/farmsheds-for-sale/kit-farm-sheds-steel-frame-sheds/13732802 you won't seen change outa afew grand by the time you get your friends one dismantled, extended and put back up.

The other problem I'd see with extending a portal is your adding stress to the beams, which possibly aren't designed for it. A portal shed is actually a reasonably tricky design by shed standards, and is basically dependent on a fair few forces balancing themselves out (if you think about it, if a portal sheds legs were not anchored, the whole shed would do the splits, and snap at the top apex ha, where the most stresses are)

tatyoman

Hi guys, thanks for replies.

I get that I would extend the apex, but I think for ventilation purposes, that mightn't be a bad thing??

I would be getting it for fair money I think. It is a nice building, fully galvanised.
I would take it down myself and weld up the extensions myself and get them galvanised to match. Probably put it up myself also.

This shed has a fair pitch on it. Which, in my minds eye, would make it stronger than a small pitch shed? If my trigonometry doesn't let me down!!:)
So I was hoping that by only making it say, 5 foot wider, and adding a kind of knee/elbow bracing, it should be plenty strong?

Those are nice looking sheds on Donedeal to be fair.

mayota

tatyoman wrote: »

To highjack this thread, I have a probably simple question to the more experienced than I.

A friend of mine has no more use for a clear span portal frame shed that he has and asked if I wanted to buy it. There are no walls in it, just sheeting to the ground.

It is a nice shed (fairly fresh), but I want to use it for cattle as a sick-wing or calving pens/ suck calves etc, with pens either side and a passage down the middle..

However, it is just a slight bit too narrow for the passage way and pens for the tractor to go down. Probably would go down, but no comfort at it.

So, would it be feasible to make a couple of girders with brackets to extend the roof purlins to widen the shed a little?
And even put some bracing in the middle for extra strength?

Anybody do this before?
I know I will need the bit extra sheeting material but I don't need all the side sheeting as I will have concrete walls.

What height is it at eaves? Could you extend the roof out on one or both sides?

tatyoman

Hi mayota,

Its just over 13ft at the eaves. What do you suggest? extend the eves out and have a passage on both sides?

Timmaay

tatyoman wrote: »

Hi guys, thanks for replies.

I get that I would extend the apex, but I think for ventilation purposes, that mightn't be a bad thing??

I would be getting it for fair money I think. It is a nice building, fully galvanised.
I would take it down myself and weld up the extensions myself and get them galvanised to match. Probably put it up myself also.

This shed has a fair pitch on it. Which, in my minds eye, would make it stronger than a small pitch shed? If my trigonometry doesn't let me down!!:)
So I was hoping that by only making it say, 5 foot wider, and adding a kind of knee/elbow bracing, it should be plenty strong?

Those are nice looking sheds on Donedeal to be fair.

A higher pitch means less stress at the top apex, but more on the eves each side. Bracing across the apexs can help, but does need to be carefully thought out, incorrect bracing can totally redirect forces, and could say put a strong bending force on a beam that was originally designed just to take compression loading.

Timmaay

tatyoman wrote: »

Hi mayota,

Its just over 13ft at the eaves. What do you suggest? extend the eves out and have a passage on both sides?

From having what we originally thought was a plenty wide internal double passage, but its clearly not wide enough anymore, I'd be a lot bigger fan of external feed passages, especially if your feeding out plenty of bales!

mayota

tatyoman wrote: »

Hi mayota,

Its just over 13ft at the eaves. What do you suggest? extend the eves out and have a passage on both sides?

No move the pens out. If you got 5' each side you had 10' extra in the passageway.

tatyoman

mayota wrote: »

No move the pens out. If you got 5' each side you had 10' extra in the passageway.

But, if he did that, wouldn't the pillars be in the way for cleaning out the dung?

tatyoman

Timmaay wrote: »

From having what we originally thought was a plenty wide internal double passage, but its clearly not wide enough anymore, I'd be a lot bigger fan of external feed passages, especially if your feeding out plenty of bales!

Hi Timmaay,
Wouldn't the use of two side passages require more space than one internal? IF you leave 8ft for the tractor, plus for argument, 4ft both sides for bales, that's 16ft in total.
But with side passages, you have 8ft for tractor plus the 4ft for bales = 12ft...times 2, so a total of 24ft of passage?

Or do you mean, have the barrier at the side of the shed and feed outside the shed completely?

mayota

tatyoman wrote: »

But, if he did that, wouldn't the pillars be in the way for cleaning out the dung?

Ya two each side but he'd have deal with it.

Timmaay

tatyoman wrote: »

Hi Timmaay,
Wouldn't the use of two side passages require more space than one internal? IF you leave 8ft for the tractor, plus for argument, 4ft both sides for bales, that's 16ft in total.
But with side passages, you have 8ft for tractor plus the 4ft for bales = 12ft...times 2, so a total of 24ft of passage?

Or do you mean, have the barrier at the side of the shed and feed outside the shed completely?

Yeh barriers side of the shed and either feed outside, or put a small canopy to keep the feed dry if you want to, the canopy is basically your shed extension!

tatyoman

Ah, we have that system at home already with the barriers at the side of the shed and feeding outside. Its okay.. But I think if I could, I would stay away from that method altogether.

You would need a good overhand to keep the fodder dry, which would then be bringing your eaves down very low for tractors..

jack o shea

Anyone know how much steel pillars are per foot or metre? Same for the sheeting?

K.G.

Using a shed im taking down somewhere else to make a shed for calves.its 13 ft long 6&3 s and i want to put it up with with 26ft span.the 12&3will rest on a concret wall at the back but i want to support every second 12&3on the front to give a 26 span.would ipe250 along tge top of the rails support the stick in the middle iykwim