Blower ok but no heat in car

vicwatson

E39, what could be up? A fuse gone? An element gone? It was working fine, then heat only coming through after about 30 mins of driving, and now it's not giving out any heat whatsoever. Any advice on a solution to the problem?

joujoujou

What's the coolant's level?

Air trapped in the cooling system maybe?

vicwatson

joujoujou wrote: »

What's the coolant's level?

Air trapped in the cooling system maybe?

Oh jeez you're talking to an amateur here :D where would that be in the engine for me to check?

porsche boy

If it heats up after 30 mind of driving I'd look at the thermostat, it could he stuck open.
Are you loosing coolant? Is the car getting up to operating temp? How long does that take? Is the top hose going to the rad hot after driving?

milltown

What about engine temperature? Does that come up to normal pretty quickly?
Could be the thermostat stuck open.

Atlantic Dawn

This might help...

http://blog.bavauto.com/12282/bmw-and-mini-diy-no-heat-diagnosing-heater-problems-how-to-diagnose/

joujoujou

vicwatson wrote: »

[...] where would that be in the engine for me to check?

Don't know that particular engine, but refer to car's manual.

biko

Start by checking coolant level

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O0vtDMMrOXE

vicwatson

porsche boy wrote: »

If it heats up after 30 mind of driving I'd look at the thermostat, it could he stuck open.
Are you loosing coolant? Is the car getting up to operating temp? How long does that take? Is the top hose going to the rad hot after driving?

Well, it was heating up but now doesn't at all. Nothing dripping out of car anyway. Car temp gauge at half way right between cold and hot as normal and doing that in normal time frame

milltown wrote: »

What about engine temperature? Does that come up to normal pretty quickly?
Could be the thermostat stuck open.

Sure does no probs with that

millington

Its either air in the coolant some how or it's the hot water valve which is on the passenger side strut tower

Foxhole Norman

Is it petrol? I had a similar issue with both my 525 and 528, just needed to be topped up and bled, once that was done it was blowing very hot.

Alanstrainor

From experience of these engines, if your coolant does need to be topped up it is very likely that you have a leak somewhere. It is a closed system, and shouldn't need to be regularly topped up. Check the coolant level when the engine is cold, and top it up as necessary. But keep a very close eye on it. Perhaps check it every morning for a little while to see if it drops.

vicwatson

Foxhole Norman wrote: »

Is it petrol? I had a similar issue with both my 525 and 528, just needed to be topped up and bled, once that was done it was blowing very hot.

Alanstrainor wrote: »

From experience of these engines, if your coolant does need to be topped up it is very likely that you have a leak somewhere. It is a closed system, and shouldn't need to be regularly topped up. Check the coolant level when the engine is cold, and top it up as necessary. But keep a very close eye on it. Perhaps check it every morning for a little while to see if it drops.

Thanks everyone for contributions.

Can you tell me what colour is the coolant reservoir? And it's exact location under the hood? Don't recall seeing a yellowing container like the one in the video linked to above

Henry Ford III

Blocked heater matrix? Are the hoses to/from the rad hot?

893bet

Most likely the thermostat. Very simple fix.

Foxhole Norman

vicwatson wrote: »

Thanks everyone for contributions.

Can you tell me what colour is the coolant reservoir? And it's exact location under the hood? Don't recall seeing a yellowing container like the one in the video linked to above

If it's a petrol it's attatched to the shroud covering the fan, it'll be just to the right of the drivers side light. A black reservoir.

Andrewf20

If the thermostat is stuck open the engine will take forever (20mins + perhaps) to get to operational temperature with normal driving.

At the back of the block at the windshield under the bonnet you might be able to reach in to the hot water pipes (supply / return) that run into the back of the dash. Check to see if these are warm to help gather clues. On my e36 they are very accessible. Should look something like pipes in the middle of pic :

http://s75.photobucket.com/user/jmitro2000/media/IMG_0845a.jpg.html

vicwatson

Oh oh now my temp gauge has moved two thirds up the way towards red. What's that? Time to call mechanic

pajero12

Op, Have you ever used Radweld or something similar for a leaky radiator?

millington

vicwatson wrote: »

Oh oh now my temp gauge has moved two thirds up the way towards red. What's that? Time to call mechanic

You probably have a coolant leak or could just be airlocked. No point asking questions on here, get it looked at.

vicwatson

pajero12 wrote: »

Op, Have you ever used Radweld or something similar for a leaky radiator?

No, had though I had the rad replaced a few years back, maybe 4 or 5.

Since I posted last the temp gauge went back and settled at mid point between cold and hot. Don't know whats going on

vicwatson

millington wrote: »

You probably have a coolant leak or could just be airlocked. No point asking questions on here, get it looked at.

Well of course I will but my mech is away, and in fairness posters have been brilliant on here so there is a point to posting, they gave me great info

biko

Possibly airlock
Try burping car, I have described it here
http://www.boards.ie/vbulletin/showthread.php?p=101537071

Henry Ford III

vicwatson wrote: »

No, had though I had the rad replaced a few years back, maybe 4 or 5.

Since I posted last the temp gauge went back and settled at mid point between cold and hot. Don't know whats going on

I'd advise against driving it tbh.

vicwatson

Ha guess what now, got out of car at 16.30. Got back into car at 17.20 and the temp gauge goes straight to normal - immediately - it didn't crawl up, to the middle of the dial.

Not driving through choice, needed to. Once I get my mech itll get sorted cheers

Alanstrainor

pajero12 wrote: »

Op, Have you ever used Radweld or something similar for a leaky radiator?

I'd advise against this, you'll just end up with a mess that needs cleaning. Could be any number of plastic pipes, or even the water pump that is leaking.

OP, did you ever check the coolant level in the end? Check when the engine is stone cold. If it is very low strongly advise against turning it on again before someone takes a look.

vicwatson

Alanstrainor wrote: »

OP, did you ever check the coolant level in the end? Check when the engine is stone cold. If it is very low strongly advise against turning it on again before someone takes a look.

Just got round to checking it this morning and couldn't see the float, bought some Xstream G48 for it to top it up until I get it to my Mech.

Can I use tap water to dilute this or must I use a de-ionised water to dilute it? is the de-ionised water a must? if so where will I get that? I plan on doing it in the morning when the engine is cold

vicwatson

Can I use tap water to dilute this or even bottled water. Don't know de ionised water or where I'd even get it.

CrowdedHouse

If you're in a hard water area I wouldn't chance it.

You can get de-ionised water in Tesco or Halfords etc

vicwatson

Ah ****e and I was there today aarrgfgg

TheChizler

If you have a dehumidifier the water from this would be a step up from tap water if you're stuck.

vicwatson

TheChizler wrote: »

If you have a dehumidifier the water from this would be a step up from tap water if you're stuck.

I don't, but thanks anyway

hi5

Or rain water.

vicwatson

hi5 wrote: »

Or rain water.

Really? Have a water butt if this would be ok??

pajero12

Alanstrainor wrote: »

I'd advise against this, you'll just end up with a mess that needs cleaning. Could be any number of plastic pipes, or even the water pump that is leaking.

OP, did you ever check the coolant level in the end? Check when the engine is stone cold. If it is very low strongly advise against turning it on again before someone takes a look.

No i'm not looking for advice I was just checking did the op ever use it as i've seen heather matrixes(matrices?) all clogged up as a result of that gunk. It's pure tack!:mad:

biko

vicwatson wrote: »

Really? Have a water butt if this would be ok??

I have heard all kinds of water, including water from condenser dryer.
However - it is imperative the water is clean and free from any debris.

Imo, if you cannot get distilled water then bottled water from a shop will do (you can get Galway Still Water 5 litres jugs for a few euros), or even tap water for a short time.

vicwatson

biko wrote: »

I have heard all kinds of water, including water from condenser dryer.
However - it is imperative the water is clean and free from any debris.

Imo, if you cannot get distilled water then bottled water from a shop will do (you can get Galway Still Water 5 litres jugs for a few euros), or even tap water for a short time.

So I could use regular bottled water?

biko

I would yeah but someone else might disagree.
In my opinion bottled water is fine.

Distilled is best if you have a performance or newer car.

vicwatson

biko wrote: »

I would yeah but someone else might disagree.
In my opinion bottled water is fine.

Distilled is best if you have a performance or newer car.

Just called the company in UK and spoke to a guy in the Technical department and he said bottled water is absolutely fine, that I could even use tap water as long as it's clean !

For anyone else - he also said that they would recommend a 50/50 mix.

Stephenc66

biko wrote: »

I would yeah but someone else might disagree.
In my opinion bottled water is fine.

Distilled is best if you have a performance or newer car.

Bottled water can contain just as many minerals (calcium etc) as tap water and be hard water which is what you want to avoid. Bottled water unless distilled is only purified for harmful bacteria. This is why they can all taste different depending on the mineral content at source.

Alanstrainor

You most likely have a leak. Your mechanic is going to have to replace some part or another and will most likely drain the system in the process. I wouldn't worry about the type of water too much as it's just something to get it a few km down the road to the mechanic. Just ask for the coolant to be replaced by the mechanic. He should do this regardless imo.

Bottle water isn't great, neither is hard tap water. But both are better than having an empty reservoir!

vicwatson

Alanstrainor wrote: »

You most likely have a leak. Your mechanic is going to have to replace some part or another and will most likely drain the system in the process. I wouldn't worry about the type of water too much as it's just something to get it a few km down the road to the mechanic. Just ask for the coolant to be replaced by the mechanic. He should do this regardless imo.

Bottle water isn't great, neither is hard tap water. But both are better than having an empty reservoir!

I owe you all a big thanks, I've mixed the coolant 50/50 with bottled water and put it in, it'll do me till my Mech gets a look at it tomorrow.

Shined a torch into the Reservoir and it looking empty, it took about 600 millilitres so don't what the capacity is (as this was changed in the past and not original BMW part I think), not sure whether this 600 ml means the reservoir was totally empty or what.

Fingers crossed it gets me motoring !

hi5

vicwatson wrote: »

Really? Have a water butt if this would be ok??

Yes, use the clean water off the top, or run it through a fine cooking sieve.
I also use it in the windscreen washers as the heated nozzles can block up with lime if you use tap water.