Exposed showerpipe or shower piping within cavity wall

Possom1

I have been considering installing a Hansgrohe Raindance, as above.

I noticed that when the brandname Hansgrohe is typed into eBay it brings up many component parts.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_sacat=0&_nkw=Hansgrohe&_pgn=2&_s kc=50&rt=nc

Since the wall I'm considering installing the shower on is a cavity wall, would it be possible to purchase the individual parts for a Hansgrohe shower of same quality and install these so that the pipework is hidden behind the cavity wall?

If so, what are the names of the parts I should look for to have a functioning unit like this?

Eg Overhead shower, hand shower and what else? What s the horizontal bar on the unit called?

Thanks!

Sleeper12

Is this something you are hoping to do yourself?
If you are going to use a plumber talk to him about it.
Are you fitting a pump to the set up?
If you are going to do it yourself what needs to be done. Have you a hot and cold feed in the wall? Are they separate, dedicated feeds or are they tee,d off other pipes?

I'm asking these questions because you may have better options depending on the set up you have and the set up you want

Possom1

Sleeper12 wrote: »

Is this something you are hoping to do yourself?

I was going to get the builder to do it, but I was going to buy in the brand of product(s) that I want.

Sleeper12 wrote: »

Are you fitting a pump to the set up?

I have a combi boiler.

Sleeper12 wrote: »

If you are going to do it yourself what needs to be done. Have you a hot and cold feed in the wall? Are they separate, dedicated feeds or are they tee,d off other pipes?

There was a shower cubicle there but now removed and I want to have a bath installed with a shower over the bath. Therefore the shower would be using the same pipework which is already in place within the cavity wall from the previous shower cubicle. So there is hot/cold, though I don't know if they're separate dedicated feeds or tee'd off other pipes.

[font=verdana, geneva, lucida, 'lucida grande', arial, helvetica, sans-serif]My combi boiler flow rate is up to 12.3Ltr/min according to the spec. It's a new WBosch.[/font]

[font=verdana, geneva, lucida, 'lucida grande', arial, helvetica, sans-serif]The flow rate of the shower pictured above is 17 litres/min at 3 bar.[/font]

Sleeper12

Possom1 wrote:

My combi boiler flow rate is up to 12.3Ltr/min according to the spec. It's a new WBosch.

Only if you have enough flow & pressure going into it. If you're mains pressure is 1.5 bar then you'll only get 8.5 litres per minute. By definition a power shower puts out minimum 10 litres per minute.
Remember that the pressure will drop further by the time it gets upstairs. Some bathrooms only have 1 bar of mains pressure & even less at peak times. I'm not saying that this will be your case. You could have 3 or 4 bar of pressure. Definitely needs to be tested upstairs first.

If your pressure is bad I can't see why a pump can't be used. Fitted with a pressure reducing valve you can keep the water at a steady 3 bar.
I haven't fitted a boiler in years & never a combi boiler but plenty on here will correct me if I'm wrong about the pump.

If the builder is fitting the shower & he can chase out the wall if need be is there any need not to use the standard shower you first started to look at rather than trying to buy it in bits and bobs?

Possom1

Sleeper12 wrote: »

Definitely needs to be tested upstairs first.

How is that done? Is that something I could potentially do? Ideally it wouldn't be done when the builder is there ready to install everything, but in advance so the correct items could be bought in.

Sleeper12 wrote: »

If the builder is fitting the shower & he can chase out the wall if need be is there any need not to use the standard shower you first started to look at rather than trying to buy it in bits and bobs?

The tongue and groove pannelling is to be removed from the cavity wall in any case to plasterboard and tile this. The shower pipework would be located behind this in the cavity wall.

The shower would be located on the side of the bath (not the end). So I had thought perhaps if it didn't have the exposed showerpipe, but was contained behind the cavity wall as much as possible, it may make things neater.

Possom1

Though I should add there was an electric shower there previously (though it didn't have a fixed overhead shower) and there were no issues with regards to water pressure.

Sleeper12

The link Here is for the concealed version. You're not going to like the price though

Possom1

Thanks very much for that Sleeper12.

I hadn't realised there was a special concealed model. I think the price makes my mind up for me. It'll have to be the exposed showerpipe which can be bought for substantially less in a current sale.

Dtp1979

Possom1 wrote: »

Thanks very much for that Sleeper12.

I hadn't realised there was a special concealed model. I think the price makes my mind up for me. It'll have to be the exposed showerpipe which can be bought for substantially less in a current sale.

What I did in my own house was use the bar mixer, then on the outlet use a chrome 317 and some chrome pipe, pipe it back into the wall and up to the attic, then have the feed to the shower head coming down a few inches from the ceiling

Possom1

Dtp1979 wrote: »

What I did in my own house was use the bar mixer, then on the outlet use a chrome 317 and some chrome pipe, pipe it back into the wall and up to the attic, then have the feed to the shower head coming down a few inches from the ceiling

I'm not in any way knowledgeable in this area, so unfortunately I don't understand this.

Not sure what a bar mixer or chrome 317 is...?

Dtp1979

Possom1 wrote: »

I'm not in any way knowledgeable in this area, so unfortunately I don't understand this.

Not sure hat a bar mixer or chrome 317 is...?

Talk to your plumber. Tell him what I said. It'd be far cheaper on u

Calahonda52

Possom1 wrote: »

I'm not in any way knowledgeable in this area, so unfortunately I don't understand this.

Not sure what a bar mixer or chrome 317 is...?

you have the (Hot&Cold/on off ) bar mixer in the pic.
the 317, in chrome, comes off the bar mixer and into the wall with some chrome pipe and then use copper up into attic and bring it out through ceiling, with Chrome into the raincan.

http://www.topline.ie/plumbing-heating/plumbing/pipe-fittings/brass-fittings/sanbra-fyffe/instantor/317-elbow-f-i-xc-pipe-fitting

Possom1

Dtp1979 wrote: »

Possom1 wrote: »

I'm not in any way knowledgeable in this area, so unfortunately I don't understand this.

Not sure hat a bar mixer or chrome 317 is...?

Talk to your plumber. Tell him what I said. It'd be far cheaper on u

Okay.

The Hansgrohe Raindance exposed fixed overhead shower with additional hand shower is stg435 (Euro518) on sale, previously stg1320.

Do you think your method would still be cheaper than this?

Dtp1979

Possom1 wrote: »

Okay.

The Hansgrohe Raindance exposed fixed overhead shower with additional hand shower is stg435 (Euro518) on sale, previously stg1320.

Do you think your method would still be cheaper than this?

There's far cheaper showers on the market that look similar that work just as well

K.Flyer

Personally I wouldn't bother buying the individual components and going to all that trouble when you can get the lot for about the 200 - 250 euro mark.(see Am a zon)
Also, you will need decent pressure for that rain fall head to be any way effective and most T-bar shower valves need at least 1 bar to operate correctly.

edit: missed the posts about combi boiler etc.

You should have your pressure / flow rate checked to ensure it will all work properly for you, so as not to be disappointed by the shower's performance.
You need the correct equipment to ensure accurate results. And because you have a combi boiler, both hot and cold lines must be checked.
Fitting a pump, if required, may create other challenges, e.g water supply, siting etc. So ensure that whoever you get to look at it understands all of your requirements and how to achieve the best results for you.
If anyone comes in and just runs your kitchen tap and says ".. that ok" then thats not good enough.